Knox Makers Wiki - User contributions [en]

Adan's 3D printer notes

2012-10-08T15:02:03Z

Bmayer: /* Useful Web sites */

Here are some rambling note on my experience with a Makerbot
Thing-O-Matic (TOM) using ABS plastic and the ReplicatorG software. It
is likely you won't have a TOM, but you may very well use ABS. There
are a couple general tips contained within as well. If you have
questions please ask. I honestly have no idea how PLA responds to the
heat or warping issues that I mention. It is a very different material
and you will want to read up on it before you build a machine using
it.

== Choosing a Printer ==
When I bought the Makerbot Thing-O-Matic I liked the compromise
between having a machine show up that was ready to print and having to
track down all sorts of crazy hardware from the corners of the
internet. What was wonderful is that in putting the pieces together I
gained a real understanding for how my machine physically worked.
There is a lot going on, but having put it together the machine is
actually very simple. Having a better understanding of the machine
also encouraged me to make modifications to it. These included better
lighting and helping to make it functional. Because of the learning
involved I would strongly encourage others to build their own machine.

== Problems ==
While printing there were several problems that I ran into which
should be thought of while creating the models.

The software takes you models and slices it into layers the thickness
of your vertical step. It then does some sort of infilling for the
model so it isn’t a very thin shell. What comes of out this is a path
that the extruder head will follow (or the build platform, net effect
the build platform and head are moving relative to each other). On the
first layer to be put down you should have as much surface area as
possible. What ends up happening in practice quite often is that you
have holes in that surface that could be used to run a bolt through.
Adhering of the print to the build surface was always a problem with
my print, but the most frequent problem was with the outlines of the
bolt holes. What would happen is the machine would trace the outline
for the bottom surface of the part, then lay down the circle outlines,
then do its back and forth laying down of the bottom surface. When it
would put down the circle outlines a bit of the circle would stick up
just a touch. Then when it was doing the back and forth pattern the
head would catch on the tiny bit of raised circle and drag material to
where it shouldn’t be thus warping that part of the print. Or better
it would unseat the print. The later situation is better because you
can catch it early and not waste of bunch of material.

== Overhangs ==
When printing the machine needs support material to lay down a layer
i.e. it can’t print on nothing but air. This comes into play when
trying to print something like a wing or overhanging ledge. Sometimes
the thing to do is to simply flip the model upside down (overhang is a
good case for this) or to use a dual head printer with ABS and PLA
using the ABS to print the model with and the PLA to lay down support
material to be removed later. There was some support several months
ago in the software for multi-head multi-material setups but it was
definitely in the experimental realm.

== Cautions for using the ReplicatorG Software ==
I ran into a problem when I upgraded the Replicator software one time.
It decided to drive the extruder into the build platform. The build
platform didn’t like very much. Every other time had been fine up to
that point. From then on I recalibrate every time before I print.
Remember to regenerate the tool path for your models after doing the
recalibration. Also never run their beta releases unless you like
software that flashes hardware to an unusable state. The story with
the replicator software is stick to their major releases unless you
like fixing stuff.

== Printing Cautions ==
When printing you are heating ABS plastic to a fairly high
temperature. Think about burning a Lego. This is basically what you
are doing, but a little bit less extreme. You need to think about the
fumes that are given off by this process. Of course the first thing I
thought of is I want to ventilate! A good and bad idea. Drafts while
printing cause warping. If ABS cools too fast it warps. This does
things like curls the edges of the print off of the build platform
making it come loose while printing. It can also warp the print as it
is happening, giving you a physical object that is not an accurate
representation of the model. It appears Makerbot has moved to PLA.
From the little reading I have done it appears that the reason for
this is less warping.

How did I over come this problem? I did two things. I used tape to
cover the sides of the Thing-O-Matic and put it in a computer rack to
discourage drafts. The other thing is that I setup the printer to run
in an extra room, shut the door and went to another part of the house.
I would check on the part every 5-15 minutes or just let it run its
course. When I was done printing I would then air out the room.

== Model positioning ==
When positioning the model for printing, you want the most surface
area on the build platform so the model better adheres. It gives you a
better chance at having a successful print and less chance at warping.

== Print Adhering ==
I had problems with having the print adhering to the build surface. I
used their fancy build surface coverings and the Automated Build
Platform sheet. The best by far was blue painters tape. Their stuff
would work for awhile and slowly start to fail. Maybe someone figured
out how to clean ABS residue off of build surface coverings, but
painters tape is so very inexpensive and easy to cover the platform
with. One tip, make sure that the build head is way higher then you
think you need to put the tape down or get a model out. The extruder
head burns flesh with just a very light tap.

== Comments on Heated Build Platforms ==
You want one. It makes the model adhere to the
build platform better and prevents edge curling. If you are going to
build a machine, don’t skimp on a small cost if it will greatly
improve the performance. This is true for ABS

== Useful Web sites ==
http://www.thingiverse.com/ is a repository of models<BR>
http://www.sketchup.com/ Free software from Google to do 3D modeling

Adan's 3D printer notes

2012-10-08T15:01:35Z

Bmayer:

Here are some rambling note on my experience with a Makerbot
Thing-O-Matic (TOM) using ABS plastic and the ReplicatorG software. It
is likely you won't have a TOM, but you may very well use ABS. There
are a couple general tips contained within as well. If you have
questions please ask. I honestly have no idea how PLA responds to the
heat or warping issues that I mention. It is a very different material
and you will want to read up on it before you build a machine using
it.

== Choosing a Printer ==
When I bought the Makerbot Thing-O-Matic I liked the compromise
between having a machine show up that was ready to print and having to
track down all sorts of crazy hardware from the corners of the
internet. What was wonderful is that in putting the pieces together I
gained a real understanding for how my machine physically worked.
There is a lot going on, but having put it together the machine is
actually very simple. Having a better understanding of the machine
also encouraged me to make modifications to it. These included better
lighting and helping to make it functional. Because of the learning
involved I would strongly encourage others to build their own machine.

== Problems ==
While printing there were several problems that I ran into which
should be thought of while creating the models.

The software takes you models and slices it into layers the thickness
of your vertical step. It then does some sort of infilling for the
model so it isn’t a very thin shell. What comes of out this is a path
that the extruder head will follow (or the build platform, net effect
the build platform and head are moving relative to each other). On the
first layer to be put down you should have as much surface area as
possible. What ends up happening in practice quite often is that you
have holes in that surface that could be used to run a bolt through.
Adhering of the print to the build surface was always a problem with
my print, but the most frequent problem was with the outlines of the
bolt holes. What would happen is the machine would trace the outline
for the bottom surface of the part, then lay down the circle outlines,
then do its back and forth laying down of the bottom surface. When it
would put down the circle outlines a bit of the circle would stick up
just a touch. Then when it was doing the back and forth pattern the
head would catch on the tiny bit of raised circle and drag material to
where it shouldn’t be thus warping that part of the print. Or better
it would unseat the print. The later situation is better because you
can catch it early and not waste of bunch of material.

== Overhangs ==
When printing the machine needs support material to lay down a layer
i.e. it can’t print on nothing but air. This comes into play when
trying to print something like a wing or overhanging ledge. Sometimes
the thing to do is to simply flip the model upside down (overhang is a
good case for this) or to use a dual head printer with ABS and PLA
using the ABS to print the model with and the PLA to lay down support
material to be removed later. There was some support several months
ago in the software for multi-head multi-material setups but it was
definitely in the experimental realm.

== Cautions for using the ReplicatorG Software ==
I ran into a problem when I upgraded the Replicator software one time.
It decided to drive the extruder into the build platform. The build
platform didn’t like very much. Every other time had been fine up to
that point. From then on I recalibrate every time before I print.
Remember to regenerate the tool path for your models after doing the
recalibration. Also never run their beta releases unless you like
software that flashes hardware to an unusable state. The story with
the replicator software is stick to their major releases unless you
like fixing stuff.

== Printing Cautions ==
When printing you are heating ABS plastic to a fairly high
temperature. Think about burning a Lego. This is basically what you
are doing, but a little bit less extreme. You need to think about the
fumes that are given off by this process. Of course the first thing I
thought of is I want to ventilate! A good and bad idea. Drafts while
printing cause warping. If ABS cools too fast it warps. This does
things like curls the edges of the print off of the build platform
making it come loose while printing. It can also warp the print as it
is happening, giving you a physical object that is not an accurate
representation of the model. It appears Makerbot has moved to PLA.
From the little reading I have done it appears that the reason for
this is less warping.

How did I over come this problem? I did two things. I used tape to
cover the sides of the Thing-O-Matic and put it in a computer rack to
discourage drafts. The other thing is that I setup the printer to run
in an extra room, shut the door and went to another part of the house.
I would check on the part every 5-15 minutes or just let it run its
course. When I was done printing I would then air out the room.

== Model positioning ==
When positioning the model for printing, you want the most surface
area on the build platform so the model better adheres. It gives you a
better chance at having a successful print and less chance at warping.

== Print Adhering ==
I had problems with having the print adhering to the build surface. I
used their fancy build surface coverings and the Automated Build
Platform sheet. The best by far was blue painters tape. Their stuff
would work for awhile and slowly start to fail. Maybe someone figured
out how to clean ABS residue off of build surface coverings, but
painters tape is so very inexpensive and easy to cover the platform
with. One tip, make sure that the build head is way higher then you
think you need to put the tape down or get a model out. The extruder
head burns flesh with just a very light tap.

== Comments on Heated Build Platforms ==
You want one. It makes the model adhere to the
build platform better and prevents edge curling. If you are going to
build a machine, don’t skimp on a small cost if it will greatly
improve the performance. This is true for ABS

== Useful Web sites ==
http://www.thingiverse.com/ is a repository of models
http://www.sketchup.com/ Free software from Google to do 3D modeling

Adan's 3D printer notes

2012-10-08T15:00:04Z

Bmayer: Created page with "Here are some rambling note on my experience with a Makerbot Thing-O-Matic (TOM) using ABS plastic and the ReplicatorG software. It is likely you won't have a TOM, but you may ve..."

Here are some rambling note on my experience with a Makerbot
Thing-O-Matic (TOM) using ABS plastic and the ReplicatorG software. It
is likely you won't have a TOM, but you may very well use ABS. There
are a couple general tips contained within as well. If you have
questions please ask. I honestly have no idea how PLA responds to the
heat or warping issues that I mention. It is a very different material
and you will want to read up on it before you build a machine using
it.

== Section 1 ==
When I bought the Makerbot Thing-O-Matic I liked the compromise
between having a machine show up that was ready to print and having to
track down all sorts of crazy hardware from the corners of the
internet. What was wonderful is that in putting the pieces together I
gained a real understanding for how my machine physically worked.
There is a lot going on, but having put it together the machine is
actually very simple. Having a better understanding of the machine
also encouraged me to make modifications to it. These included better
lighting and helping to make it functional. Because of the learning
involved I would strongly encourage others to build their own machine.

== Problems ==
While printing there were several problems that I ran into which
should be thought of while creating the models.

The software takes you models and slices it into layers the thickness
of your vertical step. It then does some sort of infilling for the
model so it isn’t a very thin shell. What comes of out this is a path
that the extruder head will follow (or the build platform, net effect
the build platform and head are moving relative to each other). On the
first layer to be put down you should have as much surface area as
possible. What ends up happening in practice quite often is that you
have holes in that surface that could be used to run a bolt through.
Adhering of the print to the build surface was always a problem with
my print, but the most frequent problem was with the outlines of the
bolt holes. What would happen is the machine would trace the outline
for the bottom surface of the part, then lay down the circle outlines,
then do its back and forth laying down of the bottom surface. When it
would put down the circle outlines a bit of the circle would stick up
just a touch. Then when it was doing the back and forth pattern the
head would catch on the tiny bit of raised circle and drag material to
where it shouldn’t be thus warping that part of the print. Or better
it would unseat the print. The later situation is better because you
can catch it early and not waste of bunch of material.

== Overhangs ==
When printing the machine needs support material to lay down a layer
i.e. it can’t print on nothing but air. This comes into play when
trying to print something like a wing or overhanging ledge. Sometimes
the thing to do is to simply flip the model upside down (overhang is a
good case for this) or to use a dual head printer with ABS and PLA
using the ABS to print the model with and the PLA to lay down support
material to be removed later. There was some support several months
ago in the software for multi-head multi-material setups but it was
definitely in the experimental realm.

== Cautions for using the ReplicatorG Software ==
I ran into a problem when I upgraded the Replicator software one time.
It decided to drive the extruder into the build platform. The build
platform didn’t like very much. Every other time had been fine up to
that point. From then on I recalibrate every time before I print.
Remember to regenerate the tool path for your models after doing the
recalibration. Also never run their beta releases unless you like
software that flashes hardware to an unusable state. The story with
the replicator software is stick to their major releases unless you
like fixing stuff.

== Printing Cautions ==
When printing you are heating ABS plastic to a fairly high
temperature. Think about burning a Lego. This is basically what you
are doing, but a little bit less extreme. You need to think about the
fumes that are given off by this process. Of course the first thing I
thought of is I want to ventilate! A good and bad idea. Drafts while
printing cause warping. If ABS cools too fast it warps. This does
things like curls the edges of the print off of the build platform
making it come loose while printing. It can also warp the print as it
is happening, giving you a physical object that is not an accurate
representation of the model. It appears Makerbot has moved to PLA.
From the little reading I have done it appears that the reason for
this is less warping.

How did I over come this problem? I did two things. I used tape to
cover the sides of the Thing-O-Matic and put it in a computer rack to
discourage drafts. The other thing is that I setup the printer to run
in an extra room, shut the door and went to another part of the house.
I would check on the part every 5-15 minutes or just let it run its
course. When I was done printing I would then air out the room.

== Model positioning ==
When positioning the model for printing, you want the most surface
area on the build platform so the model better adheres. It gives you a
better chance at having a successful print and less chance at warping.

== Print Adhering ==
I had problems with having the print adhering to the build surface. I
used their fancy build surface coverings and the Automated Build
Platform sheet. The best by far was blue painters tape. Their stuff
would work for awhile and slowly start to fail. Maybe someone figured
out how to clean ABS residue off of build surface coverings, but
painters tape is so very inexpensive and easy to cover the platform
with. One tip, make sure that the build head is way higher then you
think you need to put the tape down or get a model out. The extruder
head burns flesh with just a very light tap.

== Comments on Heated Build Platforms ==
You want one. It makes the model adhere to the
build platform better and prevents edge curling. If you are going to
build a machine, don’t skimp on a small cost if it will greatly
improve the performance. This is true for ABS

== Useful Web sites ==
http://www.thingiverse.com/ is a repository of models
http://www.sketchup.com/ Free software from Google to do 3D modeling

Future Projects

2011-12-08T02:07:55Z

Bmayer:

This page lists our ideas for ongoing or future projects and classes. If you would like to spearhead a project, please move it under your name so that those who are interested will know who to contact.

* Lock picking
* Hardware analysis and performance tuning with Linux
* Nvidia CUDA
* CoreWars
* Urban gardening\composting
* DIY arc welder http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Microwave-Transformer-Homemade-Welder/
* Super low cost subtractive CNC machine/Laser cutter http://letsmakerobots.com/node/12713
* Glass blowing\lampwork
* Lost-wax\sand casting http://www.submarineboat.com/casting_aluminum.htm
* Beer brewing - oh yeah.

== Andronicus ==
* [[Reprap]]
* [[Optical Communication in Free Space]]

== Bstrdsmkr ==
* Kiln "modernization"

== Ben Mayer ==
* Temperature control for brewing and beyond (Arduino, Local display[LCD], Remote Display [XBee, 802.11, Ethernet], data logger, timer)
* Steam Punk wireless mouse
* 3D printing, modeling, OpenSCAD