https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=DllhKnox Makers Wiki - User contributions [en]2026-04-09T13:24:34ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.44.0https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Officer_Duties&diff=4721Officer Duties2025-01-27T22:26:21Z<p>Dllh: </p>
<hr />
<div>==General Expectations of Board Members==<br />
*Attend most Tuesday nights<br />
*Wear a name badge, give tours, and answer questions of guests<br />
*Attend and participate in monthly board meetings<br />
*Vote on probationary members<br />
*Attend New Member Onboarding periodically<br />
*Assist with answering and/or routing 'general inquiry' emails<br />
*Emcee Tuesday Night Show and Share periodically<br />
*Attend annual Board Retreat<br />
<br />
==President==<br />
<br />
'''Duties'''<br />
* The primary duties of the office of President are to:<br />
** Uphold the organization's Core Values<br />
** Preside at meetings of the Board of Directors and of the Membership<br />
** Serve as a representative of the organization to the public, and in all functions where a President may be called for by law or by any other outside requirements<br />
** Ensure that the Annual Meeting of the members is held as required by the Tennessee Nonprofit Corporations Act and must report on the activities of the organization for the previous year<br />
** Sign all legally-required documentation<br />
** Schedule and hold board meetings as required by the bylaws and/or membership rules<br />
** Ensure that each board member has a current Conflict of Interest Policy acknowledgement executed and on file<br />
** Document the procedures of the office for future officers<br />
<br />
==Secretary==<br />
<br />
'''Duties'''<br />
*The primary duties of the office of Secretary are to:<br />
**Maintain a list of current members and their contact information.<br />
**Filing forms and waivers for new members and waivers for visitors and guest where required.<br />
**Respond to new membership applications.<br />
**Define new member on-boarding process<br />
***Collect required paperwork<br />
***Manage keys/space access<br />
**Provide notification (compliant with Tennessee Nonprofit Corporations Act) to members in event of a meeting of the Membership.<br />
**Provide notification (compliant with Tennessee Nonprofit Corporations Act) to board members in the event of a meeting of the Board of Directors.<br />
**Maintain meeting minutes for any meeting of the Membership or Board of Directors.<br />
**File the required Annual Report with the State of Tennessee<br />
**Monitor member storage for empty and overflowing spaces<br />
**Document the procedures of the office for future officers.<br />
<br />
==Treasurer==<br />
<br />
'''Duties'''<br />
*The primary duties of the office of the Treasurer are to:<br />
**Maintain accurate financial records for the organization as required by law.<br />
**Ensure the collection of dues from members.<br />
**Manage the tax implications of donations and other incomes, and provide notifications required by law.<br />
**Ensure annual information returns to the IRS are filed and made available for public inspection on request.<br />
**Advise the board on financial issues and/or limitations due to our non-profit status.<br />
**Pay the financial obligations of the organization.<br />
**Maintain any and all financial accounts necessary and appropriate for the collection of dues and the payment of obligations.<br />
**Report to the Membership on the finances of the organization quarterly and at the Annual Meeting of the members.<br />
**Report to the Board on the finances of the organization to support the development of budgets, fundraising plans, and capital acquisitions.<br />
**Document the [[Treasurer's_Procedures|procedures]] of the office for future officers.<br />
<br />
==Creative Director==<br />
<br />
'''Duties'''<br />
*The primary duties of the office of the Communications Director are to:<br />
**Maintain the social media accounts of the organization.<br />
**Coordinate the creation and launch of press releases and marketing campaigns.<br />
**Document the procedures of the office for future officers.<br />
<br />
==Facilities Manager==<br />
<br />
'''Duties'''<br />
*The primary duties of the office of the Facilities Director are to:<br />
**Develop and maintain a safety program and ensure compliance with safety policies, which includes: <br />
***Identify equipment that requires training prior to use,<br />
***Generate appropriate training information for the identified equipment,<br />
***Track which members have received the appropriate training for use of equipment.<br />
**Ensure compliance with member use policies (cleanliness, security, use of shared tools, etc)<br />
**Generally oversee day-to-day operations of the space to ensure equipment and the space are in good repair and working order<br />
**Ensure a designated Point of Contact for emergencies.<br />
**Document the procedures of the office for future officers.<br />
<br />
==Technical Director==<br />
<br />
'''Duties'''<br />
* The primary duties of the office of the Technical Director are to:<br />
** Ensure proper working order of physical IT assets within the workshop<br />
*** Computers<br />
*** Wired/wireless network<br />
*** Camera system<br />
** Administer online assets of the organization<br />
*** Email<br />
*** Webserver<br />
*** Chat server<br />
*** Membership management system<br />
** Ensure members know how to use and have access to the above mentioned assets as appropriate<br />
<br />
==Communications==<br />
<br />
'''Duties'''<br />
*The primary duties of the office of the Webmaster are to:<br />
**Administer and maintain the organization's public-facing website<br />
**Administer and maintain e-commerce and events ticketing systems<br />
**Ensure that upcoming events are posted internally and externally (eg, Facebook/Meetup)<br />
**Maintain AdWords Grants for Nonprofits account<br />
**Document the procedures of the office for future officers<br />
<br />
==Community Coordinator==<br />
<br />
'''Duties'''<br />
*The primary duties of the office of Volunteer Coordinator are to:<br />
**Cultivate volunteer spirit within the membership<br />
**Coordinate with the Board of Directors, Czar/inas, and Deputies to track projects ready for handoff to volunteers<br />
**Work with event committees to identify and satisfy needs for volunteer labor<br />
**Connect volunteers with tasks<br />
**When applicable, coordinate outside groups of volunteers (eg, students)<br />
**Document the procedures of the office for future officers</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Board_of_Directors&diff=4720Board of Directors2025-01-27T22:26:02Z<p>Dllh: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
=Current Board Members=<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
!style="width: 375px;" |Position<br />
!style="width: 175px;" |Elected Member<br />
|-<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[[Officer Duties#President|President]]<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[https://knoxmakers.org/member/issac/ Issac Merkle]<br />
|-<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[[Officer Duties#Secretary|Secretary / Membership Director]]<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[https://knoxmakers.org/member/tracy/ Tracy Homer]<br />
|-<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[[Officer Duties#Treasurer|Treasurer]]<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[https://knoxmakers.org/member/joslin/ Sue Joslin]<br />
|-<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[[Officer Duties#Technical_Director|Tech Director]]<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[https://knoxmakers.org/member/jondale/ Jondale Stratton]<br />
|-<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[[Officer Duties#Community_Coordinator|Community Coordinator]]<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[https://knoxmakers.org/member/russell.portwood/ Russel Portwood]<br />
|-<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[[Officer Duties#Facilities_Manager|Facilities Manager]]<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[https://knoxmakers.org/member/billy/ Billy Huddleston]<br />
|-<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[[Officer Duties#Creative_Director|Creative Director]]<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[https://knoxmakers.org/member/sean/ Sean Simoneau]<br />
|-<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[[Officer Duties#Communications|Communications]]<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[https://knoxmakers.org/member/daryl.houston/ Daryl Houston]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Corporate Info=<br />
*[[Incorporation History]] - A summary of our actions taken to incorporate Knox Makers.<br />
*[[Corporate Structure]] - A bit about our decision to be a 501(c)(3) vs 501(c)(7). <br />
*[[Historical Data]] - Membership and financial data for past years<br />
*[[Waiver of Liability]] - A copy of our liability waiver text.<br />
*[[Proposed Bylaws]] - A place to work on making changes to our bylaws before they are brought to a vote.<br />
*[[Proposed Membership Rules]] - A place to work on making changes to our membership rules before they are brought to a vote.<br />
*[[Proposed Officer Duties]] - A place to work on making changes to our officer duties before they are brought to a vote.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Board Procedures=<br />
*[[President's Procedures]] - This is a document of the procedures of the office of President for future officers.<br />
*[[Secretary's Procedures]] - This is a document of the procedures of the office of Secretary for future officers.<br />
*[[Treasurer's Procedures]] - This is a document of the procedures of the office of Treasurer for future officers.<br />
*[[Communication Director's Procedures]] - This is a document of the procedures of the office of Communication Director for future officers.<br />
*[[Facilities Director's Procedures]] - - This is a document of the procedures of the office of Facilities Director for future officers.<br />
*[[Webmaster's Procedures]] - This is a document of the procedures of the office of Webmaster for future officers.<br />
*[[Tech Director's Procedures]] - This is a document of the procedures of the office of Tech Director for future officers.<br />
*[[Creative Director's Procedures]] - This is a document of the procedures of the office of Creative Director for future officers.<br />
*[[Events Coordinator's Procedures]] - This is a document of the procedures of the office of Events Coordinator for future officers.</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Officer_Duties&diff=4719Officer Duties2025-01-27T22:21:46Z<p>Dllh: </p>
<hr />
<div>==General Expectations of Board Members==<br />
*Attend most Tuesday nights<br />
*Wear a name badge, give tours, and answer questions of guests<br />
*Attend and participate in monthly board meetings<br />
*Vote on probationary members<br />
*Attend New Member Onboarding periodically<br />
*Assist with answering and/or routing 'general inquiry' emails<br />
*Emcee Tuesday Night Show and Share periodically<br />
*Attend annual Board Retreat<br />
<br />
==President==<br />
<br />
'''Duties'''<br />
* The primary duties of the office of President are to:<br />
** Uphold the organization's Core Values<br />
** Preside at meetings of the Board of Directors and of the Membership<br />
** Serve as a representative of the organization to the public, and in all functions where a President may be called for by law or by any other outside requirements<br />
** Ensure that the Annual Meeting of the members is held as required by the Tennessee Nonprofit Corporations Act and must report on the activities of the organization for the previous year<br />
** Sign all legally-required documentation<br />
** Schedule and hold board meetings as required by the bylaws and/or membership rules<br />
** Ensure that each board member has a current Conflict of Interest Policy acknowledgement executed and on file<br />
** Document the procedures of the office for future officers<br />
<br />
==Secretary==<br />
<br />
'''Duties'''<br />
*The primary duties of the office of Secretary are to:<br />
**Maintain a list of current members and their contact information.<br />
**Filing forms and waivers for new members and waivers for visitors and guest where required.<br />
**Respond to new membership applications.<br />
**Define new member on-boarding process<br />
***Collect required paperwork<br />
***Manage keys/space access<br />
**Provide notification (compliant with Tennessee Nonprofit Corporations Act) to members in event of a meeting of the Membership.<br />
**Provide notification (compliant with Tennessee Nonprofit Corporations Act) to board members in the event of a meeting of the Board of Directors.<br />
**Maintain meeting minutes for any meeting of the Membership or Board of Directors.<br />
**File the required Annual Report with the State of Tennessee<br />
**Monitor member storage for empty and overflowing spaces<br />
**Document the procedures of the office for future officers.<br />
<br />
==Treasurer==<br />
<br />
'''Duties'''<br />
*The primary duties of the office of the Treasurer are to:<br />
**Maintain accurate financial records for the organization as required by law.<br />
**Ensure the collection of dues from members.<br />
**Manage the tax implications of donations and other incomes, and provide notifications required by law.<br />
**Ensure annual information returns to the IRS are filed and made available for public inspection on request.<br />
**Advise the board on financial issues and/or limitations due to our non-profit status.<br />
**Pay the financial obligations of the organization.<br />
**Maintain any and all financial accounts necessary and appropriate for the collection of dues and the payment of obligations.<br />
**Report to the Membership on the finances of the organization quarterly and at the Annual Meeting of the members.<br />
**Report to the Board on the finances of the organization to support the development of budgets, fundraising plans, and capital acquisitions.<br />
**Document the [[Treasurer's_Procedures|procedures]] of the office for future officers.<br />
<br />
==Creative Director==<br />
<br />
'''Duties'''<br />
*The primary duties of the office of the Communications Director are to:<br />
**Maintain the social media accounts of the organization.<br />
**Coordinate the creation and launch of press releases and marketing campaigns.<br />
**Document the procedures of the office for future officers.<br />
<br />
==Facilities Manager==<br />
<br />
'''Duties'''<br />
*The primary duties of the office of the Facilities Director are to:<br />
**Develop and maintain a safety program and ensure compliance with safety policies, which includes: <br />
***Identify equipment that requires training prior to use,<br />
***Generate appropriate training information for the identified equipment,<br />
***Track which members have received the appropriate training for use of equipment.<br />
**Ensure compliance with member use policies (cleanliness, security, use of shared tools, etc)<br />
**Generally oversee day-to-day operations of the space to ensure equipment and the space are in good repair and working order<br />
**Ensure a designated Point of Contact for emergencies.<br />
**Document the procedures of the office for future officers.<br />
<br />
==Technical Director==<br />
<br />
'''Duties'''<br />
* The primary duties of the office of the Technical Director are to:<br />
** Ensure proper working order of physical IT assets within the workshop<br />
*** Computers<br />
*** Wired/wireless network<br />
*** Camera system<br />
** Administer online assets of the organization<br />
*** Email<br />
*** Webserver<br />
*** Chat server<br />
*** Membership management system<br />
** Ensure members know how to use and have access to the above mentioned assets as appropriate<br />
<br />
==Communications==<br />
<br />
'''Duties'''<br />
*The primary duties of the office of the Webmaster are to:<br />
**Administer and maintain the organization's public-facing website<br />
**Administer and maintain e-commerce and events ticketing systems<br />
**Ensure that upcoming events are posted internally and externally (eg, Facebook/Meetup)<br />
**Maintain AdWords Grants for Nonprofits account<br />
**Document the procedures of the office for future officers<br />
<br />
==Volunteer Coordinator==<br />
<br />
'''Duties'''<br />
*The primary duties of the office of Volunteer Coordinator are to:<br />
**Cultivate volunteer spirit within the membership<br />
**Coordinate with the Board of Directors, Czar/inas, and Deputies to track projects ready for handoff to volunteers<br />
**Work with event committees to identify and satisfy needs for volunteer labor<br />
**Connect volunteers with tasks<br />
**When applicable, coordinate outside groups of volunteers (eg, students)<br />
**Document the procedures of the office for future officers</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Board_of_Directors&diff=4718Board of Directors2025-01-27T22:19:48Z<p>Dllh: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
=Current Board Members=<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
!style="width: 375px;" |Position<br />
!style="width: 175px;" |Elected Member<br />
|-<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[[Officer Duties#President|President]]<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[https://knoxmakers.org/member/issac/ Issac Merkle]<br />
|-<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[[Officer Duties#Secretary|Secretary / Membership Director]]<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[https://knoxmakers.org/member/tracy/ Tracy Homer]<br />
|-<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[[Officer Duties#Treasurer|Treasurer]]<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[https://knoxmakers.org/member/joslin/ Sue Joslin]<br />
|-<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[[Officer Duties#Technical_Director|Tech Director]]<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[https://knoxmakers.org/member/jondale/ Jondale Stratton]<br />
|-<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[[Officer Duties#Volunteer_Coordinator|Volunteer Coordinator]]<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[https://knoxmakers.org/member/russell.portwood/ Russel Portwood]<br />
|-<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[[Officer Duties#Facilities_Manager|Facilities Manager]]<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[https://knoxmakers.org/member/billy/ Billy Huddleston]<br />
|-<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[[Officer Duties#Creative_Director|Creative Director]]<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[https://knoxmakers.org/member/sean/ Sean Simoneau]<br />
|-<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[[Officer Duties#Communications|Communications]]<br />
|style="text-align: center;" |[https://knoxmakers.org/member/daryl.houston/ Daryl Houston]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Corporate Info=<br />
*[[Incorporation History]] - A summary of our actions taken to incorporate Knox Makers.<br />
*[[Corporate Structure]] - A bit about our decision to be a 501(c)(3) vs 501(c)(7). <br />
*[[Historical Data]] - Membership and financial data for past years<br />
*[[Waiver of Liability]] - A copy of our liability waiver text.<br />
*[[Proposed Bylaws]] - A place to work on making changes to our bylaws before they are brought to a vote.<br />
*[[Proposed Membership Rules]] - A place to work on making changes to our membership rules before they are brought to a vote.<br />
*[[Proposed Officer Duties]] - A place to work on making changes to our officer duties before they are brought to a vote.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Board Procedures=<br />
*[[President's Procedures]] - This is a document of the procedures of the office of President for future officers.<br />
*[[Secretary's Procedures]] - This is a document of the procedures of the office of Secretary for future officers.<br />
*[[Treasurer's Procedures]] - This is a document of the procedures of the office of Treasurer for future officers.<br />
*[[Communication Director's Procedures]] - This is a document of the procedures of the office of Communication Director for future officers.<br />
*[[Facilities Director's Procedures]] - - This is a document of the procedures of the office of Facilities Director for future officers.<br />
*[[Webmaster's Procedures]] - This is a document of the procedures of the office of Webmaster for future officers.<br />
*[[Tech Director's Procedures]] - This is a document of the procedures of the office of Tech Director for future officers.<br />
*[[Creative Director's Procedures]] - This is a document of the procedures of the office of Creative Director for future officers.<br />
*[[Events Coordinator's Procedures]] - This is a document of the procedures of the office of Events Coordinator for future officers.</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Foundry&diff=4387Foundry2024-10-17T01:14:22Z<p>Dllh: Filling out some TODO sections to wrap up the initial draft of the page.</p>
<hr />
<div>== '''WORK IN PROGRESS''' == <br />
The Foundry is a tool housed within [[Blacksmithing]] zone and can only be used practically if you have the Blacksmithing auth, which is required to get a key to the blacksmithing building.<br />
<br />
== Safety ==<br />
=== Gear ===<br />
Working in a foundry is very dangerous! We provide safety gear to help reduce the odds of your getting hurt. To use the foundry, you must wear the following:<br />
<br><br />
<br />
* Safety glasses, ideally shaded to protect your eyes<br />
* Closed-toed shoes (steel toes aren't a bad idea)<br />
* Long sleeves and pants in natural fibers (cotton, flannel). We recommend borrowing a welding shirt from Metalworking.<br />
* Ear protection if the noise bothers you<br />
* A face screen to protect your face (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather heat-resistant spats to protect your shins and feet (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather sleeves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather gloves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather apron (provided by KM)<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Everything you do in the foundry must be very intentional. Place each step carefully, double check that no one is too close for your personal comfort (and their safety), move methodically and consistently when possible.<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
Any time you heat up metal, you run the risk of releasing toxic fumes. It's important to know what metal you're using and what the signs suggest that you have inhaled the fumes. We pour outside the building in part to give fumes more room to disperse, but you should look out for smoke coming from the furnace and adjust your position or ventilation as needed. If you have one, you might like to wear a respirator. Below you'll find a few common types of fumes to beware of.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Zinc fumes ====<br />
* Commonly released when casting metals like '''brass'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can cause flu-like symptoms (known as metal fume fever), nausea, headaches, and muscle aches.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to chronic respiratory issues, such as asthma or other lung damage.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Carbon monoxide ====<br />
* Released during incomplete combustion of fuels.<br />
* Exposure can lead to dizziness, confusion, or even unconsciousness in severe cases.<br />
* Long-term exposure can cause '''heart and brain damage''' due to oxygen deprivation.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Sulfur dioxide ====<br />
* Released during the casting of metals like '''iron and copper'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can irritate the respiratory system, causing coughing, shortness of breath, and a burning sensation.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to '''chronic lung disease''' or aggravation of pre-existing conditions like asthma.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Hydrogen chloride ====<br />
* Released when metals like zinc or copper are cast.<br />
* Causes severe irritation to the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract.<br />
* Long-term exposure can result in chronic bronchitis or '''permanent lung damage'''.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Tools ==<br />
* The '''furnace''' is the cylinder that contains the fire that melts your metal.<br />
* The '''propane tank''' provides fuel for the fire.<br />
* The '''crucible''' is the special container that will hold your metal while it melts. You'll pour from the crucible into your mold.<br />
* The '''tongs''' are specially made to fit the crucible and should be used for lowering the crucible into the furnace and it out.<br />
* The '''ring shank''' is the tool you'll use to pour the metal from the crucible. When pouring, you use the tongs to set the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, and then you pour from the ring shank.<br />
* The '''cope''' and '''drags'''... (I DON'T REMEMBER. LET'S UPDATE.)<br />
* The '''ingots''' are the metal you'll put into the crucible to melt. When you finish pouring into your molds, pour your leftover metal into an ingot tray to harden into useful shapes for inserting back into the crucible for a future pour.<br />
* The '''sand table''' lives in the corner (near left as you enter the front doors) and is useful for making your molds and extracting your finished product from the molds. A bin underneath collects any sand you push through the holes on the surface so that it can be re-used later.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Environment Setup ==<br />
Wheel the furnace out onto a flat surface just outside the front door of the blacksmith shop. There should be pavers set out that you can park the furnace on. Block the wheels with something that will prevent the furnace from moving (one day, we may add chucks or locking wheels). <br />
<br />
There should be a propane tank near the furnace, but note that the propane tank should stay inside the shop door while the furnace should be outside the door. Think about how you'll move around the furnace with the tongs and molten metal. Here's a layout that worked well in testing:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Foundry Setup.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Note that the furnace is sitting on pavers on the gravel. The propane tank is inside the shop. Between the propane and the furnace are the tongs for lifting the crucible out of the furnace. Lying on pavers in the middle of the photo are the pouring tongs. At right is a sheet of metal that you'll set your molds on to pour into. In the upper right corner of the metal is a mold to pour any leftover metal into so that we can melt it down again for a future pour. This arrangement lets you maneuver from furnace to tongs to pouring area with a reduced likelihood of getting tripped up.<br />
<br />
Now that you've got your layout set up, we get the furnace ready for melting!<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Make sure that both doors on the blacksmith shop are open.<br />
# Ensure that the furnace is on the outside on the pavers, and the gas is on the inside of the door, as mentioned and depicted above. This is a safety issue.<br />
# Connect the furnace gas supply to the propane tank. Remember that the threads are reversed (so twist backwards from what you normally would). Ensure that the valve is tightened properly, passed visual inspection, and appears undamaged. If uncertain, '''please ask'''. Folks familiar with the foundry chat in our Foundry and Blacksmithing channels on Mattermost. Please do '''not''' adjust the burner that goes into the furnace -- it is already calibrated as needed, and changing it could upset the air/fuel mixture required for casting.<br />
# Open the furnace and load the crucible, as seen at the beginning of ([https://youtu.be/XUEq-18ibDA this video]). Your metal should be in the crucible. Use the correct crucible for the metal being used.<br />
# Turn on the propane tank to 10 psi.<br />
# Light the furnace using the hand-held propane torch.<br />
# Close the furnace lid.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
It'll vary by metal, but you should plan for a half hour or so to get the metal melting (this is the case for aluminum, at least). While the metal is heating, you can prepare your molds.<br />
<br />
To open the lid on the furnace, grab the handle at the top and push your foot down on the pedal at the base of the furnace. Then gently pivot the top around to the side of the furnace. Remember to block the wheels first so the furnace doesn't roll. You should find three little pucks in the bottom as pictured below. Space them out equally in the center of the furnace in a position that will allow the base of the crucible to rest securely on the pucks without tipping. '''Before putting the crucible into the furnace''', put a sheet of cardboard or paper towel on top of the pucks. This provides a layer of carbon between the crucible and pucks that will reduce the likelihood of the pucks sticking to the bottom of the crucible.<br />
<br />
Use the pick-up tongs to lift the crucible carefully and lower it in to balance on the pucks.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Foundry furnace seen from above.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Preparing Molds ==<br />
On the sand table, you'll find some square wooden molds. While there are various ways to make molds in sand, the method we use for the authorization uses a plastic mold with sand packed tightly around it. To get your sand casting mold ready, follow these steps:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Near the sand table, you'll find a bin of our sand, which is a mixture (not straight sand) designed for casting. Dig through this and stir it up a bit so that you can get some handfuls of sand that will pack into a nugget that doesn't readily crumble. There's not an exact way to determine that you've got the right consistency. In the auth class, you'll get to try this out to get an idea. So, step one s to have your sand ready to go.<br />
# Select one of our pre-printed plastic molds or create a design of your own.<br />
# Place this into one of the wooden frames with the design facing upward toward you on the table.<br />
# Dust it with a bit of talcum powder, which helps the cooled metal release from the mold later. You can put a little powder on top of the mold and then brush it around a little. You want a very light dusting.<br />
# Put some sand into the mold and pack it into the frame using one of the wooden rammers. You want a pretty tight pack. Do this in layers rather than dumping a bunch of sand in and trying to pack it all at once. <br />
# Once the sand is well packed and level with the top of the frame, carefully turn it upside down. You should see the bottom of your plastic mold.<br />
# Very gently tap the mold to help it release.<br />
# In our pre-printed molds, there's a tiny hole in the back. You can gently put a screw into this and tighten just enough to help you lift the plastic out of the sand. If you're making your own molds, devise a way to aid removal.<br />
# Now look at the impression the mold has left in the sand. If it doesn't look right, you can redo the process until you get a "clean" impression to pour the metal into.<br />
# Place your frame on the metal sheet you've set out for that purpose (see Setup above).<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Pictures showing different steps/states in this process appear below.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Plastic mold inside wooden frame.jpg|Plastic mold inside wooden frame<br />
File:Powdered Mold.jpg|A mold with a light dusting of talcum powder, sitting inside a frame<br />
Ramming sand into the frame.jpg|Ramming sand into the frame<br />
A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside.jpg|A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside<br />
The mold completed.jpg|The mold completed<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Skimming Dross ==<br />
Once your metal has melted, you'll want to clean it up a bit by applying flux (salt or borax) liberally to the skimmer and gently stirring and prodding the molten metal. You'll want to skim the top particularly, and you know you're done when the metal is shiny with little or no crud floating on top. As you skim, occasionally deposit dross into the dross bin to cool. Do this carefully, as you don't want to spatter hot metal waste on anyone or anything. Pictured below you'll see the dross bin currently in use and the "skim" end of the skimmer.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Dross Bin.jpg|Dross bin with cooled dross fragments<br />
Dross Skimmer.jpg|Skimmer for removing dross from the molten metal, loaded with flux<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Pouring the Metal ==<br />
So, you've got your environment set up and your casting frame ready to pour metal in. <br />
<br />
Look again at the suggested setup above. Think about how you'll open the furnace, get the tongs to hand, transfer to the ring shank, pour, and reverse the steps. Think about how you'll maneuver safely without damaging yourself, others, and our equipment and shop.<br />
<br />
The steps are as follows:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Turn the psi on the propane tank down to 5 while pouring.<br />
# Open the furnace by stepping on the pedal and using the handle to swing the top out to the opposite side of the furnace from where you'll be pouring.<br />
# Use the tongs to carefully lift the crucible from the furnace. Make sure you clear the rim of the furnace, and watch out for tripping hazards.<br />
# If you follow the setup suggested above, you'll have the ring and the handle of the ring shank both sitting on pavers. Use the tongs to place the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, sitting on the paver. Make sure to orient the pouring lip of the crucible so that it is toward the mold(s) you'll be pouring into.<br />
# Move the tongs out of your way.<br />
# Use the ring shank to pick up the crucible, making sure the crucible is held securely. <br />
# Pour gently into the frame. A controlled pour will reduce the odds of your splashing molten metal and will conserve metal.<br />
# Use the ring shank to place the crucible back down on the paver.<br />
# Use the tongs to lift the crucible and place it back into the furnace, making sure that the crucible sits securely on the pucks in the bottom.<br />
# Close the lid of the furnace.<br />
# Turn the psi back up to 10 if you plan to continue pouring for a while yet.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
[https://youtu.be/XUEq-18ibDA Here's a video of this in action.]<br />
<br />
== Extracting the Casting ==<br />
Remember that everything around you is hot!<br />
<br />
After giving your poured metal a few minutes to cool (this will take shorter for smaller molds, longer for larger molds), carefully pick up your frame and take it to the sand table in the blacksmithing building (as of October 2024, it's in the corner to your immediate left as you walk in the sliding doors).<br />
<br />
Turn the mold over or use tongs to remove the casting from the frame. It may still be very hot, so do this carefully.<br />
<br />
Put the casting aside and make sure the sand-collecting bin is inside the cabinet underneath the table top. Work any sand that has landed on the table top through the holes, so that it falls into the bin. You can also dump directly into the bin, but be sure to make sure you're dumping only the sand mixture and not other potential contaminants. <br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Shutting Down ==<br />
Pour any remaining metal from the crucible into the ingot mold so that we can use any extra for future pours. <br />
<br />
Place tongs near the sand table and, once cooled, roll the furnace over to that area as well (put these back where you got them).<br />
<br />
Close the propane valve and disconnect the propane tank, putting it back in its place.<br />
<br />
Put away any other things you've used in your casting session (e.g. frames, molds that belong to Knox Makers, etc.)<br />
<br />
Stick around the space for a while to let the furnace cool down so that it can safely be rolled back into the shop. Plan to stick around for at least a half hour or so.<br />
<br />
If no one else is using the blacksmithing area, close the shop according to the usual shut-down procedures for the zone.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Sourcing Metal ==<br />
Please do not melt aluminum cans in the furnace. They're not a great source of aluminum.<br />
<br />
Around the left side of the blacksmithing building, you'll see big chunks of aluminum in the forms of wheel rims and other components. Feel free to use reasonable portions of this (don't hog it all), cutting off what you need. You can also bring your own metal. Metal Supermarkets in west Knoxville carries aluminum, and other stores may as well. Remember to think about safety, fumes, etc., when sourcing your metal, as covered in the safety section of this document.</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Foundry&diff=4386Foundry2024-10-17T00:59:37Z<p>Dllh: /* Pouring the Metal */</p>
<hr />
<div>== '''WORK IN PROGRESS''' == <br />
The Foundry is a tool housed within [[Blacksmithing]] zone and can only be used practically if you have the Blacksmithing auth, which is required to get a key to the blacksmithing building.<br />
<br />
== Safety ==<br />
=== Gear ===<br />
Working in a foundry is very dangerous! We provide safety gear to help reduce the odds of your getting hurt. To use the foundry, you must wear the following:<br />
<br><br />
<br />
* Safety glasses, ideally shaded to protect your eyes<br />
* Closed-toed shoes (steel toes aren't a bad idea)<br />
* Long sleeves and pants in natural fibers (cotton, flannel). We recommend borrowing a welding shirt from Metalworking.<br />
* Ear protection if the noise bothers you<br />
* A face screen to protect your face (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather heat-resistant spats to protect your shins and feet (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather sleeves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather gloves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather apron (provided by KM)<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Everything you do in the foundry must be very intentional. Place each step carefully, double check that no one is too close for your personal comfort (and their safety), move methodically and consistently when possible.<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
Any time you heat up metal, you run the risk of releasing toxic fumes. It's important to know what metal you're using and what the signs suggest that you have inhaled the fumes. We pour outside the building in part to give fumes more room to disperse, but you should look out for smoke coming from the furnace and adjust your position or ventilation as needed. If you have one, you might like to wear a respirator. Below you'll find a few common types of fumes to beware of.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Zinc fumes ====<br />
* Commonly released when casting metals like '''brass'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can cause flu-like symptoms (known as metal fume fever), nausea, headaches, and muscle aches.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to chronic respiratory issues, such as asthma or other lung damage.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Carbon monoxide ====<br />
* Released during incomplete combustion of fuels.<br />
* Exposure can lead to dizziness, confusion, or even unconsciousness in severe cases.<br />
* Long-term exposure can cause '''heart and brain damage''' due to oxygen deprivation.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Sulfur dioxide ====<br />
* Released during the casting of metals like '''iron and copper'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can irritate the respiratory system, causing coughing, shortness of breath, and a burning sensation.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to '''chronic lung disease''' or aggravation of pre-existing conditions like asthma.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Hydrogen chloride ====<br />
* Released when metals like zinc or copper are cast.<br />
* Causes severe irritation to the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract.<br />
* Long-term exposure can result in chronic bronchitis or '''permanent lung damage'''.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Tools ==<br />
* The '''furnace''' is the cylinder that contains the fire that melts your metal.<br />
* The '''propane tank''' provides fuel for the fire.<br />
* The '''crucible''' is the special container that will hold your metal while it melts. You'll pour from the crucible into your mold.<br />
* The '''tongs''' are specially made to fit the crucible and should be used for lowering the crucible into the furnace and it out.<br />
* The '''ring shank''' is the tool you'll use to pour the metal from the crucible. When pouring, you use the tongs to set the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, and then you pour from the ring shank.<br />
* The '''cope''' and '''drags'''... (I DON'T REMEMBER. LET'S UPDATE.)<br />
* The '''ingots''' are the metal you'll put into the crucible to melt. When you finish pouring into your molds, pour your leftover metal into an ingot tray to harden into useful shapes for inserting back into the crucible for a future pour.<br />
* The '''sand table''' lives in the corner (near left as you enter the front doors) and is useful for making your molds and extracting your finished product from the molds. A bin underneath collects any sand you push through the holes on the surface so that it can be re-used later.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Environment Setup ==<br />
Wheel the furnace out onto a flat surface just outside the front door of the blacksmith shop. There should be pavers set out that you can park the furnace on. Block the wheels with something that will prevent the furnace from moving (one day, we may add chucks or locking wheels). <br />
<br />
There should be a propane tank near the furnace, but note that the propane tank should stay inside the shop door while the furnace should be outside the door. Think about how you'll move around the furnace with the tongs and molten metal. Here's a layout that worked well in testing:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Foundry Setup.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Note that the furnace is sitting on pavers on the gravel. The propane tank is inside the shop. Between the propane and the furnace are the tongs for lifting the crucible out of the furnace. Lying on pavers in the middle of the photo are the pouring tongs. At right is a sheet of metal that you'll set your molds on to pour into. In the upper right corner of the metal is a mold to pour any leftover metal into so that we can melt it down again for a future pour. This arrangement lets you maneuver from furnace to tongs to pouring area with a reduced likelihood of getting tripped up.<br />
<br />
Now that you've got your layout set up, we get the furnace ready for melting!<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Make sure that both doors on the blacksmith shop are open.<br />
# Ensure that the furnace is on the outside on the pavers, and the gas is on the inside of the door, as mentioned and depicted above. This is a safety issue.<br />
# Connect the furnace gas supply to the propane tank. Remember that the threads are reversed (so twist backwards from what you normally would). Ensure that the valve is tightened properly, passed visual inspection, and appears undamaged. If uncertain, '''please ask'''. Folks familiar with the foundry chat in our Foundry and Blacksmithing channels on Mattermost. Please do '''not''' adjust the burner that goes into the furnace -- it is already calibrated as needed, and changing it could upset the air/fuel mixture required for casting.<br />
# Open the furnace and load the crucible, as seen at the beginning of ([https://youtu.be/XUEq-18ibDA this video]). Your metal should be in the crucible. Use the correct crucible for the metal being used.<br />
# Turn on the propane tank to 10 psi.<br />
# Light the furnace using the hand-held propane torch.<br />
# Close the furnace lid.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
It'll vary by metal, but you should plan for a half hour or so to get the metal melting (this is the case for aluminum, at least). While the metal is heating, you can prepare your molds.<br />
<br />
To open the lid on the furnace, grab the handle at the top and push your foot down on the pedal at the base of the furnace. Then gently pivot the top around to the side of the furnace. Remember to block the wheels first so the furnace doesn't roll. You should find three little pucks in the bottom as pictured below. Space them out equally in the center of the furnace in a position that will allow the base of the crucible to rest securely on the pucks without tipping. '''Before putting the crucible into the furnace''', put a sheet of cardboard or paper towel on top of the pucks. This provides a layer of carbon between the crucible and pucks that will reduce the likelihood of the pucks sticking to the bottom of the crucible.<br />
<br />
Use the pick-up tongs to lift the crucible carefully and lower it in to balance on the pucks.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Foundry furnace seen from above.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Preparing Molds ==<br />
On the sand table, you'll find some square wooden molds. While there are various ways to make molds in sand, the method we use for the authorization uses a plastic mold with sand packed tightly around it. To get your sand casting mold ready, follow these steps:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Near the sand table, you'll find a bin of our sand, which is a mixture (not straight sand) designed for casting. Dig through this and stir it up a bit so that you can get some handfuls of sand that will pack into a nugget that doesn't readily crumble. There's not an exact way to determine that you've got the right consistency. In the auth class, you'll get to try this out to get an idea. So, step one s to have your sand ready to go.<br />
# Select one of our pre-printed plastic molds or create a design of your own.<br />
# Place this into one of the wooden frames with the design facing upward toward you on the table.<br />
# Dust it with a bit of talcum powder, which helps the cooled metal release from the mold later. You can put a little powder on top of the mold and then brush it around a little. You want a very light dusting.<br />
# Put some sand into the mold and pack it into the frame using one of the wooden rammers. You want a pretty tight pack. Do this in layers rather than dumping a bunch of sand in and trying to pack it all at once. <br />
# Once the sand is well packed and level with the top of the frame, carefully turn it upside down. You should see the bottom of your plastic mold.<br />
# Very gently tap the mold to help it release.<br />
# In our pre-printed molds, there's a tiny hole in the back. You can gently put a screw into this and tighten just enough to help you lift the plastic out of the sand. If you're making your own molds, devise a way to aid removal.<br />
# Now look at the impression the mold has left in the sand. If it doesn't look right, you can redo the process until you get a "clean" impression to pour the metal into.<br />
# Place your frame on the metal sheet you've set out for that purpose (see Setup above).<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Pictures showing different steps/states in this process appear below.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Plastic mold inside wooden frame.jpg|Plastic mold inside wooden frame<br />
File:Powdered Mold.jpg|A mold with a light dusting of talcum powder, sitting inside a frame<br />
Ramming sand into the frame.jpg|Ramming sand into the frame<br />
A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside.jpg|A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside<br />
The mold completed.jpg|The mold completed<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Skimming Dross ==<br />
Once your metal has melted, you'll want to clean it up a bit by applying flux (salt or borax) liberally to the skimmer and gently stirring and prodding the molten metal. You'll want to skim the top particularly, and you know you're done when the metal is shiny with little or no crud floating on top. As you skim, occasionally deposit dross into the dross bin to cool. Do this carefully, as you don't want to spatter hot metal waste on anyone or anything. Pictured below you'll see the dross bin currently in use and the "skim" end of the skimmer.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Dross Bin.jpg|Dross bin with cooled dross fragments<br />
Dross Skimmer.jpg|Skimmer for removing dross from the molten metal, loaded with flux<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Pouring the Metal ==<br />
So, you've got your environment set up and your casting frame ready to pour metal in. <br />
<br />
Look again at the suggested setup above. Think about how you'll open the furnace, get the tongs to hand, transfer to the ring shank, pour, and reverse the steps. Think about how you'll maneuver safely without damaging yourself, others, and our equipment and shop.<br />
<br />
The steps are as follows:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Turn the psi on the propane tank down to 5 while pouring.<br />
# Open the furnace by stepping on the pedal and using the handle to swing the top out to the opposite side of the furnace from where you'll be pouring.<br />
# Use the tongs to carefully lift the crucible from the furnace. Make sure you clear the rim of the furnace, and watch out for tripping hazards.<br />
# If you follow the setup suggested above, you'll have the ring and the handle of the ring shank both sitting on pavers. Use the tongs to place the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, sitting on the paver. Make sure to orient the pouring lip of the crucible so that it is toward the mold(s) you'll be pouring into.<br />
# Move the tongs out of your way.<br />
# Use the ring shank to pick up the crucible, making sure the crucible is held securely. <br />
# Pour gently into the frame. A controlled pour will reduce the odds of your splashing molten metal and will conserve metal.<br />
# Use the ring shank to place the crucible back down on the paver.<br />
# Use the tongs to lift the crucible and place it back into the furnace, making sure that the crucible sits securely on the pucks in the bottom.<br />
# Close the lid of the furnace.<br />
# Turn the psi back up to 10 if you plan to continue pouring for a while yet.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
[https://youtu.be/XUEq-18ibDA Here's a video of this in action.]<br />
<br />
== Extracting the Casting ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Shutting Down ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Sourcing Metal ==<br />
Please do not melt aluminum cans in the furnace. <br />
TODO</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Foundry&diff=4385Foundry2024-10-17T00:59:21Z<p>Dllh: /* Pouring the Metal */</p>
<hr />
<div>== '''WORK IN PROGRESS''' == <br />
The Foundry is a tool housed within [[Blacksmithing]] zone and can only be used practically if you have the Blacksmithing auth, which is required to get a key to the blacksmithing building.<br />
<br />
== Safety ==<br />
=== Gear ===<br />
Working in a foundry is very dangerous! We provide safety gear to help reduce the odds of your getting hurt. To use the foundry, you must wear the following:<br />
<br><br />
<br />
* Safety glasses, ideally shaded to protect your eyes<br />
* Closed-toed shoes (steel toes aren't a bad idea)<br />
* Long sleeves and pants in natural fibers (cotton, flannel). We recommend borrowing a welding shirt from Metalworking.<br />
* Ear protection if the noise bothers you<br />
* A face screen to protect your face (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather heat-resistant spats to protect your shins and feet (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather sleeves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather gloves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather apron (provided by KM)<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Everything you do in the foundry must be very intentional. Place each step carefully, double check that no one is too close for your personal comfort (and their safety), move methodically and consistently when possible.<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
Any time you heat up metal, you run the risk of releasing toxic fumes. It's important to know what metal you're using and what the signs suggest that you have inhaled the fumes. We pour outside the building in part to give fumes more room to disperse, but you should look out for smoke coming from the furnace and adjust your position or ventilation as needed. If you have one, you might like to wear a respirator. Below you'll find a few common types of fumes to beware of.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Zinc fumes ====<br />
* Commonly released when casting metals like '''brass'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can cause flu-like symptoms (known as metal fume fever), nausea, headaches, and muscle aches.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to chronic respiratory issues, such as asthma or other lung damage.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Carbon monoxide ====<br />
* Released during incomplete combustion of fuels.<br />
* Exposure can lead to dizziness, confusion, or even unconsciousness in severe cases.<br />
* Long-term exposure can cause '''heart and brain damage''' due to oxygen deprivation.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Sulfur dioxide ====<br />
* Released during the casting of metals like '''iron and copper'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can irritate the respiratory system, causing coughing, shortness of breath, and a burning sensation.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to '''chronic lung disease''' or aggravation of pre-existing conditions like asthma.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Hydrogen chloride ====<br />
* Released when metals like zinc or copper are cast.<br />
* Causes severe irritation to the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract.<br />
* Long-term exposure can result in chronic bronchitis or '''permanent lung damage'''.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Tools ==<br />
* The '''furnace''' is the cylinder that contains the fire that melts your metal.<br />
* The '''propane tank''' provides fuel for the fire.<br />
* The '''crucible''' is the special container that will hold your metal while it melts. You'll pour from the crucible into your mold.<br />
* The '''tongs''' are specially made to fit the crucible and should be used for lowering the crucible into the furnace and it out.<br />
* The '''ring shank''' is the tool you'll use to pour the metal from the crucible. When pouring, you use the tongs to set the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, and then you pour from the ring shank.<br />
* The '''cope''' and '''drags'''... (I DON'T REMEMBER. LET'S UPDATE.)<br />
* The '''ingots''' are the metal you'll put into the crucible to melt. When you finish pouring into your molds, pour your leftover metal into an ingot tray to harden into useful shapes for inserting back into the crucible for a future pour.<br />
* The '''sand table''' lives in the corner (near left as you enter the front doors) and is useful for making your molds and extracting your finished product from the molds. A bin underneath collects any sand you push through the holes on the surface so that it can be re-used later.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Environment Setup ==<br />
Wheel the furnace out onto a flat surface just outside the front door of the blacksmith shop. There should be pavers set out that you can park the furnace on. Block the wheels with something that will prevent the furnace from moving (one day, we may add chucks or locking wheels). <br />
<br />
There should be a propane tank near the furnace, but note that the propane tank should stay inside the shop door while the furnace should be outside the door. Think about how you'll move around the furnace with the tongs and molten metal. Here's a layout that worked well in testing:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Foundry Setup.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Note that the furnace is sitting on pavers on the gravel. The propane tank is inside the shop. Between the propane and the furnace are the tongs for lifting the crucible out of the furnace. Lying on pavers in the middle of the photo are the pouring tongs. At right is a sheet of metal that you'll set your molds on to pour into. In the upper right corner of the metal is a mold to pour any leftover metal into so that we can melt it down again for a future pour. This arrangement lets you maneuver from furnace to tongs to pouring area with a reduced likelihood of getting tripped up.<br />
<br />
Now that you've got your layout set up, we get the furnace ready for melting!<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Make sure that both doors on the blacksmith shop are open.<br />
# Ensure that the furnace is on the outside on the pavers, and the gas is on the inside of the door, as mentioned and depicted above. This is a safety issue.<br />
# Connect the furnace gas supply to the propane tank. Remember that the threads are reversed (so twist backwards from what you normally would). Ensure that the valve is tightened properly, passed visual inspection, and appears undamaged. If uncertain, '''please ask'''. Folks familiar with the foundry chat in our Foundry and Blacksmithing channels on Mattermost. Please do '''not''' adjust the burner that goes into the furnace -- it is already calibrated as needed, and changing it could upset the air/fuel mixture required for casting.<br />
# Open the furnace and load the crucible, as seen at the beginning of ([https://youtu.be/XUEq-18ibDA this video]). Your metal should be in the crucible. Use the correct crucible for the metal being used.<br />
# Turn on the propane tank to 10 psi.<br />
# Light the furnace using the hand-held propane torch.<br />
# Close the furnace lid.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
It'll vary by metal, but you should plan for a half hour or so to get the metal melting (this is the case for aluminum, at least). While the metal is heating, you can prepare your molds.<br />
<br />
To open the lid on the furnace, grab the handle at the top and push your foot down on the pedal at the base of the furnace. Then gently pivot the top around to the side of the furnace. Remember to block the wheels first so the furnace doesn't roll. You should find three little pucks in the bottom as pictured below. Space them out equally in the center of the furnace in a position that will allow the base of the crucible to rest securely on the pucks without tipping. '''Before putting the crucible into the furnace''', put a sheet of cardboard or paper towel on top of the pucks. This provides a layer of carbon between the crucible and pucks that will reduce the likelihood of the pucks sticking to the bottom of the crucible.<br />
<br />
Use the pick-up tongs to lift the crucible carefully and lower it in to balance on the pucks.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Foundry furnace seen from above.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Preparing Molds ==<br />
On the sand table, you'll find some square wooden molds. While there are various ways to make molds in sand, the method we use for the authorization uses a plastic mold with sand packed tightly around it. To get your sand casting mold ready, follow these steps:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Near the sand table, you'll find a bin of our sand, which is a mixture (not straight sand) designed for casting. Dig through this and stir it up a bit so that you can get some handfuls of sand that will pack into a nugget that doesn't readily crumble. There's not an exact way to determine that you've got the right consistency. In the auth class, you'll get to try this out to get an idea. So, step one s to have your sand ready to go.<br />
# Select one of our pre-printed plastic molds or create a design of your own.<br />
# Place this into one of the wooden frames with the design facing upward toward you on the table.<br />
# Dust it with a bit of talcum powder, which helps the cooled metal release from the mold later. You can put a little powder on top of the mold and then brush it around a little. You want a very light dusting.<br />
# Put some sand into the mold and pack it into the frame using one of the wooden rammers. You want a pretty tight pack. Do this in layers rather than dumping a bunch of sand in and trying to pack it all at once. <br />
# Once the sand is well packed and level with the top of the frame, carefully turn it upside down. You should see the bottom of your plastic mold.<br />
# Very gently tap the mold to help it release.<br />
# In our pre-printed molds, there's a tiny hole in the back. You can gently put a screw into this and tighten just enough to help you lift the plastic out of the sand. If you're making your own molds, devise a way to aid removal.<br />
# Now look at the impression the mold has left in the sand. If it doesn't look right, you can redo the process until you get a "clean" impression to pour the metal into.<br />
# Place your frame on the metal sheet you've set out for that purpose (see Setup above).<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Pictures showing different steps/states in this process appear below.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Plastic mold inside wooden frame.jpg|Plastic mold inside wooden frame<br />
File:Powdered Mold.jpg|A mold with a light dusting of talcum powder, sitting inside a frame<br />
Ramming sand into the frame.jpg|Ramming sand into the frame<br />
A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside.jpg|A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside<br />
The mold completed.jpg|The mold completed<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Skimming Dross ==<br />
Once your metal has melted, you'll want to clean it up a bit by applying flux (salt or borax) liberally to the skimmer and gently stirring and prodding the molten metal. You'll want to skim the top particularly, and you know you're done when the metal is shiny with little or no crud floating on top. As you skim, occasionally deposit dross into the dross bin to cool. Do this carefully, as you don't want to spatter hot metal waste on anyone or anything. Pictured below you'll see the dross bin currently in use and the "skim" end of the skimmer.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Dross Bin.jpg|Dross bin with cooled dross fragments<br />
Dross Skimmer.jpg|Skimmer for removing dross from the molten metal, loaded with flux<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Pouring the Metal ==<br />
So, you've got your environment set up and your casting frame ready to pour metal in. <br />
<br />
Look again at the suggested setup above. Think about how you'll open the furnace, get the tongs to hand, transfer to the ring shank, pour, and reverse the steps. Think about how you'll maneuver safely without damaging yourself, others, and our equipment and shop.<br />
<br />
The steps are as follows:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Turn the psi on the propane tank down to 5 while pouring.<br />
# Open the furnace by stepping on the pedal and using the handle to swing the top out to the opposite side of the furnace from where you'll be pouring.<br />
# Use the tongs to carefully lift the crucible from the furnace. Make sure you clear the rim of the furnace, and watch out for tripping hazards.<br />
# If you follow the setup suggested above, you'll have the ring and the handle of the ring shank both sitting on pavers. Use the tongs to place the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, sitting on the paver. Make sure to orient the pouring lip of the crucible so that it is toward the mold(s) you'll be pouring into.<br />
# Move the tongs out of your way.<br />
# Use the ring shank to pick up the crucible, making sure the crucible is held securely. <br />
# Pour gently into the frame. A controlled pour will reduce the odds of your splashing molten metal and will conserve metal.<br />
# Use the ring shank to place the crucible back down on the paver.<br />
# Use the tongs to lift the crucible and place it back into the furnace, making sure that the crucible sits securely on the pucks in the bottom.<br />
# Close the lid of the furnace.<br />
# Turn the psi back up to 10 if you plan to continue pouring for a while yet.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
[[https://youtu.be/XUEq-18ibDA Here's a video of this in action.]]<br />
<br />
== Extracting the Casting ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Shutting Down ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Sourcing Metal ==<br />
Please do not melt aluminum cans in the furnace. <br />
TODO</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Foundry&diff=4384Foundry2024-10-17T00:58:06Z<p>Dllh: /* Pouring the Metal */</p>
<hr />
<div>== '''WORK IN PROGRESS''' == <br />
The Foundry is a tool housed within [[Blacksmithing]] zone and can only be used practically if you have the Blacksmithing auth, which is required to get a key to the blacksmithing building.<br />
<br />
== Safety ==<br />
=== Gear ===<br />
Working in a foundry is very dangerous! We provide safety gear to help reduce the odds of your getting hurt. To use the foundry, you must wear the following:<br />
<br><br />
<br />
* Safety glasses, ideally shaded to protect your eyes<br />
* Closed-toed shoes (steel toes aren't a bad idea)<br />
* Long sleeves and pants in natural fibers (cotton, flannel). We recommend borrowing a welding shirt from Metalworking.<br />
* Ear protection if the noise bothers you<br />
* A face screen to protect your face (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather heat-resistant spats to protect your shins and feet (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather sleeves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather gloves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather apron (provided by KM)<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Everything you do in the foundry must be very intentional. Place each step carefully, double check that no one is too close for your personal comfort (and their safety), move methodically and consistently when possible.<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
Any time you heat up metal, you run the risk of releasing toxic fumes. It's important to know what metal you're using and what the signs suggest that you have inhaled the fumes. We pour outside the building in part to give fumes more room to disperse, but you should look out for smoke coming from the furnace and adjust your position or ventilation as needed. If you have one, you might like to wear a respirator. Below you'll find a few common types of fumes to beware of.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Zinc fumes ====<br />
* Commonly released when casting metals like '''brass'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can cause flu-like symptoms (known as metal fume fever), nausea, headaches, and muscle aches.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to chronic respiratory issues, such as asthma or other lung damage.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Carbon monoxide ====<br />
* Released during incomplete combustion of fuels.<br />
* Exposure can lead to dizziness, confusion, or even unconsciousness in severe cases.<br />
* Long-term exposure can cause '''heart and brain damage''' due to oxygen deprivation.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Sulfur dioxide ====<br />
* Released during the casting of metals like '''iron and copper'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can irritate the respiratory system, causing coughing, shortness of breath, and a burning sensation.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to '''chronic lung disease''' or aggravation of pre-existing conditions like asthma.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Hydrogen chloride ====<br />
* Released when metals like zinc or copper are cast.<br />
* Causes severe irritation to the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract.<br />
* Long-term exposure can result in chronic bronchitis or '''permanent lung damage'''.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Tools ==<br />
* The '''furnace''' is the cylinder that contains the fire that melts your metal.<br />
* The '''propane tank''' provides fuel for the fire.<br />
* The '''crucible''' is the special container that will hold your metal while it melts. You'll pour from the crucible into your mold.<br />
* The '''tongs''' are specially made to fit the crucible and should be used for lowering the crucible into the furnace and it out.<br />
* The '''ring shank''' is the tool you'll use to pour the metal from the crucible. When pouring, you use the tongs to set the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, and then you pour from the ring shank.<br />
* The '''cope''' and '''drags'''... (I DON'T REMEMBER. LET'S UPDATE.)<br />
* The '''ingots''' are the metal you'll put into the crucible to melt. When you finish pouring into your molds, pour your leftover metal into an ingot tray to harden into useful shapes for inserting back into the crucible for a future pour.<br />
* The '''sand table''' lives in the corner (near left as you enter the front doors) and is useful for making your molds and extracting your finished product from the molds. A bin underneath collects any sand you push through the holes on the surface so that it can be re-used later.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Environment Setup ==<br />
Wheel the furnace out onto a flat surface just outside the front door of the blacksmith shop. There should be pavers set out that you can park the furnace on. Block the wheels with something that will prevent the furnace from moving (one day, we may add chucks or locking wheels). <br />
<br />
There should be a propane tank near the furnace, but note that the propane tank should stay inside the shop door while the furnace should be outside the door. Think about how you'll move around the furnace with the tongs and molten metal. Here's a layout that worked well in testing:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Foundry Setup.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Note that the furnace is sitting on pavers on the gravel. The propane tank is inside the shop. Between the propane and the furnace are the tongs for lifting the crucible out of the furnace. Lying on pavers in the middle of the photo are the pouring tongs. At right is a sheet of metal that you'll set your molds on to pour into. In the upper right corner of the metal is a mold to pour any leftover metal into so that we can melt it down again for a future pour. This arrangement lets you maneuver from furnace to tongs to pouring area with a reduced likelihood of getting tripped up.<br />
<br />
Now that you've got your layout set up, we get the furnace ready for melting!<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Make sure that both doors on the blacksmith shop are open.<br />
# Ensure that the furnace is on the outside on the pavers, and the gas is on the inside of the door, as mentioned and depicted above. This is a safety issue.<br />
# Connect the furnace gas supply to the propane tank. Remember that the threads are reversed (so twist backwards from what you normally would). Ensure that the valve is tightened properly, passed visual inspection, and appears undamaged. If uncertain, '''please ask'''. Folks familiar with the foundry chat in our Foundry and Blacksmithing channels on Mattermost. Please do '''not''' adjust the burner that goes into the furnace -- it is already calibrated as needed, and changing it could upset the air/fuel mixture required for casting.<br />
# Open the furnace and load the crucible, as seen at the beginning of ([https://youtu.be/XUEq-18ibDA this video]). Your metal should be in the crucible. Use the correct crucible for the metal being used.<br />
# Turn on the propane tank to 10 psi.<br />
# Light the furnace using the hand-held propane torch.<br />
# Close the furnace lid.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
It'll vary by metal, but you should plan for a half hour or so to get the metal melting (this is the case for aluminum, at least). While the metal is heating, you can prepare your molds.<br />
<br />
To open the lid on the furnace, grab the handle at the top and push your foot down on the pedal at the base of the furnace. Then gently pivot the top around to the side of the furnace. Remember to block the wheels first so the furnace doesn't roll. You should find three little pucks in the bottom as pictured below. Space them out equally in the center of the furnace in a position that will allow the base of the crucible to rest securely on the pucks without tipping. '''Before putting the crucible into the furnace''', put a sheet of cardboard or paper towel on top of the pucks. This provides a layer of carbon between the crucible and pucks that will reduce the likelihood of the pucks sticking to the bottom of the crucible.<br />
<br />
Use the pick-up tongs to lift the crucible carefully and lower it in to balance on the pucks.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Foundry furnace seen from above.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Preparing Molds ==<br />
On the sand table, you'll find some square wooden molds. While there are various ways to make molds in sand, the method we use for the authorization uses a plastic mold with sand packed tightly around it. To get your sand casting mold ready, follow these steps:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Near the sand table, you'll find a bin of our sand, which is a mixture (not straight sand) designed for casting. Dig through this and stir it up a bit so that you can get some handfuls of sand that will pack into a nugget that doesn't readily crumble. There's not an exact way to determine that you've got the right consistency. In the auth class, you'll get to try this out to get an idea. So, step one s to have your sand ready to go.<br />
# Select one of our pre-printed plastic molds or create a design of your own.<br />
# Place this into one of the wooden frames with the design facing upward toward you on the table.<br />
# Dust it with a bit of talcum powder, which helps the cooled metal release from the mold later. You can put a little powder on top of the mold and then brush it around a little. You want a very light dusting.<br />
# Put some sand into the mold and pack it into the frame using one of the wooden rammers. You want a pretty tight pack. Do this in layers rather than dumping a bunch of sand in and trying to pack it all at once. <br />
# Once the sand is well packed and level with the top of the frame, carefully turn it upside down. You should see the bottom of your plastic mold.<br />
# Very gently tap the mold to help it release.<br />
# In our pre-printed molds, there's a tiny hole in the back. You can gently put a screw into this and tighten just enough to help you lift the plastic out of the sand. If you're making your own molds, devise a way to aid removal.<br />
# Now look at the impression the mold has left in the sand. If it doesn't look right, you can redo the process until you get a "clean" impression to pour the metal into.<br />
# Place your frame on the metal sheet you've set out for that purpose (see Setup above).<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Pictures showing different steps/states in this process appear below.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Plastic mold inside wooden frame.jpg|Plastic mold inside wooden frame<br />
File:Powdered Mold.jpg|A mold with a light dusting of talcum powder, sitting inside a frame<br />
Ramming sand into the frame.jpg|Ramming sand into the frame<br />
A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside.jpg|A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside<br />
The mold completed.jpg|The mold completed<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Skimming Dross ==<br />
Once your metal has melted, you'll want to clean it up a bit by applying flux (salt or borax) liberally to the skimmer and gently stirring and prodding the molten metal. You'll want to skim the top particularly, and you know you're done when the metal is shiny with little or no crud floating on top. As you skim, occasionally deposit dross into the dross bin to cool. Do this carefully, as you don't want to spatter hot metal waste on anyone or anything. Pictured below you'll see the dross bin currently in use and the "skim" end of the skimmer.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Dross Bin.jpg|Dross bin with cooled dross fragments<br />
Dross Skimmer.jpg|Skimmer for removing dross from the molten metal, loaded with flux<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Pouring the Metal ==<br />
So, you've got your environment set up and your casting frame ready to pour metal in. <br />
<br />
Look again at the suggested setup above. Think about how you'll open the furnace, get the tongs to hand, transfer to the ring shank, pour, and reverse the steps. Think about how you'll maneuver safely without damaging yourself, others, and our equipment and shop.<br />
<br />
The steps are as follows:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Turn the psi on the propane tank down to 5 while pouring.<br />
# Open the furnace by stepping on the pedal and using the handle to swing the top out to the opposite side of the furnace from where you'll be pouring.<br />
# Use the tongs to carefully lift the crucible from the furnace. Make sure you clear the rim of the furnace, and watch out for tripping hazards.<br />
# If you follow the setup suggested above, you'll have the ring and the handle of the ring shank both sitting on pavers. Use the tongs to place the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, sitting on the paver. Make sure to orient the pouring lip of the crucible so that it is toward the mold(s) you'll be pouring into.<br />
# Move the tongs out of your way.<br />
# Use the ring shank to pick up the crucible, making sure the crucible is held securely. <br />
# Pour gently into the frame. A controlled pour will reduce the odds of your splashing molten metal and will conserve metal.<br />
# Use the ring shank to place the crucible back down on the paver.<br />
# Use the tongs to lift the crucible and place it back into the furnace, making sure that the crucible sits securely on the pucks in the bottom.<br />
# Close the lid of the furnace.<br />
# Turn the psi back up to 10 if you plan to continue pouring for a while yet.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Here's a video of this in action:<br />
<br />
{{#ev:youtube|XUEq-18ibDA}}<br />
<br />
== Extracting the Casting ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Shutting Down ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Sourcing Metal ==<br />
Please do not melt aluminum cans in the furnace. <br />
TODO</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Foundry&diff=4383Foundry2024-10-17T00:55:09Z<p>Dllh: /* Environment Setup */</p>
<hr />
<div>== '''WORK IN PROGRESS''' == <br />
The Foundry is a tool housed within [[Blacksmithing]] zone and can only be used practically if you have the Blacksmithing auth, which is required to get a key to the blacksmithing building.<br />
<br />
== Safety ==<br />
=== Gear ===<br />
Working in a foundry is very dangerous! We provide safety gear to help reduce the odds of your getting hurt. To use the foundry, you must wear the following:<br />
<br><br />
<br />
* Safety glasses, ideally shaded to protect your eyes<br />
* Closed-toed shoes (steel toes aren't a bad idea)<br />
* Long sleeves and pants in natural fibers (cotton, flannel). We recommend borrowing a welding shirt from Metalworking.<br />
* Ear protection if the noise bothers you<br />
* A face screen to protect your face (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather heat-resistant spats to protect your shins and feet (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather sleeves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather gloves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather apron (provided by KM)<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Everything you do in the foundry must be very intentional. Place each step carefully, double check that no one is too close for your personal comfort (and their safety), move methodically and consistently when possible.<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
Any time you heat up metal, you run the risk of releasing toxic fumes. It's important to know what metal you're using and what the signs suggest that you have inhaled the fumes. We pour outside the building in part to give fumes more room to disperse, but you should look out for smoke coming from the furnace and adjust your position or ventilation as needed. If you have one, you might like to wear a respirator. Below you'll find a few common types of fumes to beware of.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Zinc fumes ====<br />
* Commonly released when casting metals like '''brass'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can cause flu-like symptoms (known as metal fume fever), nausea, headaches, and muscle aches.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to chronic respiratory issues, such as asthma or other lung damage.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Carbon monoxide ====<br />
* Released during incomplete combustion of fuels.<br />
* Exposure can lead to dizziness, confusion, or even unconsciousness in severe cases.<br />
* Long-term exposure can cause '''heart and brain damage''' due to oxygen deprivation.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Sulfur dioxide ====<br />
* Released during the casting of metals like '''iron and copper'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can irritate the respiratory system, causing coughing, shortness of breath, and a burning sensation.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to '''chronic lung disease''' or aggravation of pre-existing conditions like asthma.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Hydrogen chloride ====<br />
* Released when metals like zinc or copper are cast.<br />
* Causes severe irritation to the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract.<br />
* Long-term exposure can result in chronic bronchitis or '''permanent lung damage'''.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Tools ==<br />
* The '''furnace''' is the cylinder that contains the fire that melts your metal.<br />
* The '''propane tank''' provides fuel for the fire.<br />
* The '''crucible''' is the special container that will hold your metal while it melts. You'll pour from the crucible into your mold.<br />
* The '''tongs''' are specially made to fit the crucible and should be used for lowering the crucible into the furnace and it out.<br />
* The '''ring shank''' is the tool you'll use to pour the metal from the crucible. When pouring, you use the tongs to set the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, and then you pour from the ring shank.<br />
* The '''cope''' and '''drags'''... (I DON'T REMEMBER. LET'S UPDATE.)<br />
* The '''ingots''' are the metal you'll put into the crucible to melt. When you finish pouring into your molds, pour your leftover metal into an ingot tray to harden into useful shapes for inserting back into the crucible for a future pour.<br />
* The '''sand table''' lives in the corner (near left as you enter the front doors) and is useful for making your molds and extracting your finished product from the molds. A bin underneath collects any sand you push through the holes on the surface so that it can be re-used later.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Environment Setup ==<br />
Wheel the furnace out onto a flat surface just outside the front door of the blacksmith shop. There should be pavers set out that you can park the furnace on. Block the wheels with something that will prevent the furnace from moving (one day, we may add chucks or locking wheels). <br />
<br />
There should be a propane tank near the furnace, but note that the propane tank should stay inside the shop door while the furnace should be outside the door. Think about how you'll move around the furnace with the tongs and molten metal. Here's a layout that worked well in testing:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Foundry Setup.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Note that the furnace is sitting on pavers on the gravel. The propane tank is inside the shop. Between the propane and the furnace are the tongs for lifting the crucible out of the furnace. Lying on pavers in the middle of the photo are the pouring tongs. At right is a sheet of metal that you'll set your molds on to pour into. In the upper right corner of the metal is a mold to pour any leftover metal into so that we can melt it down again for a future pour. This arrangement lets you maneuver from furnace to tongs to pouring area with a reduced likelihood of getting tripped up.<br />
<br />
Now that you've got your layout set up, we get the furnace ready for melting!<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Make sure that both doors on the blacksmith shop are open.<br />
# Ensure that the furnace is on the outside on the pavers, and the gas is on the inside of the door, as mentioned and depicted above. This is a safety issue.<br />
# Connect the furnace gas supply to the propane tank. Remember that the threads are reversed (so twist backwards from what you normally would). Ensure that the valve is tightened properly, passed visual inspection, and appears undamaged. If uncertain, '''please ask'''. Folks familiar with the foundry chat in our Foundry and Blacksmithing channels on Mattermost. Please do '''not''' adjust the burner that goes into the furnace -- it is already calibrated as needed, and changing it could upset the air/fuel mixture required for casting.<br />
# Open the furnace and load the crucible, as seen at the beginning of ([https://youtu.be/XUEq-18ibDA this video]). Your metal should be in the crucible. Use the correct crucible for the metal being used.<br />
# Turn on the propane tank to 10 psi.<br />
# Light the furnace using the hand-held propane torch.<br />
# Close the furnace lid.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
It'll vary by metal, but you should plan for a half hour or so to get the metal melting (this is the case for aluminum, at least). While the metal is heating, you can prepare your molds.<br />
<br />
To open the lid on the furnace, grab the handle at the top and push your foot down on the pedal at the base of the furnace. Then gently pivot the top around to the side of the furnace. Remember to block the wheels first so the furnace doesn't roll. You should find three little pucks in the bottom as pictured below. Space them out equally in the center of the furnace in a position that will allow the base of the crucible to rest securely on the pucks without tipping. '''Before putting the crucible into the furnace''', put a sheet of cardboard or paper towel on top of the pucks. This provides a layer of carbon between the crucible and pucks that will reduce the likelihood of the pucks sticking to the bottom of the crucible.<br />
<br />
Use the pick-up tongs to lift the crucible carefully and lower it in to balance on the pucks.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Foundry furnace seen from above.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Preparing Molds ==<br />
On the sand table, you'll find some square wooden molds. While there are various ways to make molds in sand, the method we use for the authorization uses a plastic mold with sand packed tightly around it. To get your sand casting mold ready, follow these steps:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Near the sand table, you'll find a bin of our sand, which is a mixture (not straight sand) designed for casting. Dig through this and stir it up a bit so that you can get some handfuls of sand that will pack into a nugget that doesn't readily crumble. There's not an exact way to determine that you've got the right consistency. In the auth class, you'll get to try this out to get an idea. So, step one s to have your sand ready to go.<br />
# Select one of our pre-printed plastic molds or create a design of your own.<br />
# Place this into one of the wooden frames with the design facing upward toward you on the table.<br />
# Dust it with a bit of talcum powder, which helps the cooled metal release from the mold later. You can put a little powder on top of the mold and then brush it around a little. You want a very light dusting.<br />
# Put some sand into the mold and pack it into the frame using one of the wooden rammers. You want a pretty tight pack. Do this in layers rather than dumping a bunch of sand in and trying to pack it all at once. <br />
# Once the sand is well packed and level with the top of the frame, carefully turn it upside down. You should see the bottom of your plastic mold.<br />
# Very gently tap the mold to help it release.<br />
# In our pre-printed molds, there's a tiny hole in the back. You can gently put a screw into this and tighten just enough to help you lift the plastic out of the sand. If you're making your own molds, devise a way to aid removal.<br />
# Now look at the impression the mold has left in the sand. If it doesn't look right, you can redo the process until you get a "clean" impression to pour the metal into.<br />
# Place your frame on the metal sheet you've set out for that purpose (see Setup above).<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Pictures showing different steps/states in this process appear below.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Plastic mold inside wooden frame.jpg|Plastic mold inside wooden frame<br />
File:Powdered Mold.jpg|A mold with a light dusting of talcum powder, sitting inside a frame<br />
Ramming sand into the frame.jpg|Ramming sand into the frame<br />
A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside.jpg|A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside<br />
The mold completed.jpg|The mold completed<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Skimming Dross ==<br />
Once your metal has melted, you'll want to clean it up a bit by applying flux (salt or borax) liberally to the skimmer and gently stirring and prodding the molten metal. You'll want to skim the top particularly, and you know you're done when the metal is shiny with little or no crud floating on top. As you skim, occasionally deposit dross into the dross bin to cool. Do this carefully, as you don't want to spatter hot metal waste on anyone or anything. Pictured below you'll see the dross bin currently in use and the "skim" end of the skimmer.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Dross Bin.jpg|Dross bin with cooled dross fragments<br />
Dross Skimmer.jpg|Skimmer for removing dross from the molten metal, loaded with flux<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Pouring the Metal ==<br />
So, you've got your environment set up and your casting frame ready to pour metal in. <br />
<br />
Look again at the suggested setup above. Think about how you'll open the furnace, get the tongs to hand, transfer to the ring shank, pour, and reverse the steps. Think about how you'll maneuver safely without damaging yourself, others, and our equipment and shop.<br />
<br />
The steps are as follows:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Turn the psi on the propane tank down to 5 while pouring.<br />
# Open the furnace by stepping on the pedal and using the handle to swing the top out to the opposite side of the furnace from where you'll be pouring.<br />
# Use the tongs to carefully lift the crucible from the furnace. Make sure you clear the rim of the furnace, and watch out for tripping hazards.<br />
# If you follow the setup suggested above, you'll have the ring and the handle of the ring shank both sitting on pavers. Use the tongs to place the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, sitting on the paver. Make sure to orient the pouring lip of the crucible so that it is toward the mold(s) you'll be pouring into.<br />
# Move the tongs out of your way.<br />
# Use the ring shank to pick up the crucible, making sure the crucible is held securely. <br />
# Pour gently into the frame. A controlled pour will reduce the odds of your splashing molten metal and will conserve metal.<br />
# Use the ring shank to place the crucible back down on the paver.<br />
# Use the tongs to lift the crucible and place it back into the furnace, making sure that the crucible sits securely on the pucks in the bottom.<br />
# Close the lid of the furnace.<br />
# Turn the psi back up to 10 if you plan to continue pouring for a while yet.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Here's a video of this in action:<br />
<br />
TODO: FIGURE OUT WHERE TO UPLOAD VIDEO TO AND LINK HERE<br />
<br />
== Extracting the Casting ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Shutting Down ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Sourcing Metal ==<br />
Please do not melt aluminum cans in the furnace. <br />
TODO</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Foundry&diff=4382Foundry2024-10-17T00:54:09Z<p>Dllh: /* Environment Setup */</p>
<hr />
<div>== '''WORK IN PROGRESS''' == <br />
The Foundry is a tool housed within [[Blacksmithing]] zone and can only be used practically if you have the Blacksmithing auth, which is required to get a key to the blacksmithing building.<br />
<br />
== Safety ==<br />
=== Gear ===<br />
Working in a foundry is very dangerous! We provide safety gear to help reduce the odds of your getting hurt. To use the foundry, you must wear the following:<br />
<br><br />
<br />
* Safety glasses, ideally shaded to protect your eyes<br />
* Closed-toed shoes (steel toes aren't a bad idea)<br />
* Long sleeves and pants in natural fibers (cotton, flannel). We recommend borrowing a welding shirt from Metalworking.<br />
* Ear protection if the noise bothers you<br />
* A face screen to protect your face (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather heat-resistant spats to protect your shins and feet (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather sleeves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather gloves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather apron (provided by KM)<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Everything you do in the foundry must be very intentional. Place each step carefully, double check that no one is too close for your personal comfort (and their safety), move methodically and consistently when possible.<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
Any time you heat up metal, you run the risk of releasing toxic fumes. It's important to know what metal you're using and what the signs suggest that you have inhaled the fumes. We pour outside the building in part to give fumes more room to disperse, but you should look out for smoke coming from the furnace and adjust your position or ventilation as needed. If you have one, you might like to wear a respirator. Below you'll find a few common types of fumes to beware of.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Zinc fumes ====<br />
* Commonly released when casting metals like '''brass'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can cause flu-like symptoms (known as metal fume fever), nausea, headaches, and muscle aches.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to chronic respiratory issues, such as asthma or other lung damage.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Carbon monoxide ====<br />
* Released during incomplete combustion of fuels.<br />
* Exposure can lead to dizziness, confusion, or even unconsciousness in severe cases.<br />
* Long-term exposure can cause '''heart and brain damage''' due to oxygen deprivation.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Sulfur dioxide ====<br />
* Released during the casting of metals like '''iron and copper'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can irritate the respiratory system, causing coughing, shortness of breath, and a burning sensation.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to '''chronic lung disease''' or aggravation of pre-existing conditions like asthma.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Hydrogen chloride ====<br />
* Released when metals like zinc or copper are cast.<br />
* Causes severe irritation to the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract.<br />
* Long-term exposure can result in chronic bronchitis or '''permanent lung damage'''.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Tools ==<br />
* The '''furnace''' is the cylinder that contains the fire that melts your metal.<br />
* The '''propane tank''' provides fuel for the fire.<br />
* The '''crucible''' is the special container that will hold your metal while it melts. You'll pour from the crucible into your mold.<br />
* The '''tongs''' are specially made to fit the crucible and should be used for lowering the crucible into the furnace and it out.<br />
* The '''ring shank''' is the tool you'll use to pour the metal from the crucible. When pouring, you use the tongs to set the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, and then you pour from the ring shank.<br />
* The '''cope''' and '''drags'''... (I DON'T REMEMBER. LET'S UPDATE.)<br />
* The '''ingots''' are the metal you'll put into the crucible to melt. When you finish pouring into your molds, pour your leftover metal into an ingot tray to harden into useful shapes for inserting back into the crucible for a future pour.<br />
* The '''sand table''' lives in the corner (near left as you enter the front doors) and is useful for making your molds and extracting your finished product from the molds. A bin underneath collects any sand you push through the holes on the surface so that it can be re-used later.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Environment Setup ==<br />
Wheel the furnace out onto a flat surface just outside the front door of the blacksmith shop. There should be pavers set out that you can park the furnace on. Block the wheels with something that will prevent the furnace from moving (one day, we may add chucks or locking wheels). <br />
<br />
There should be a propane tank near the furnace, but note that the propane tank should stay inside the shop door while the furnace should be outside the door. Think about how you'll move around the furnace with the tongs and molten metal. Here's a layout that worked well in testing:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Foundry Setup.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Note that the furnace is sitting on pavers on the gravel. The propane tank is inside the shop. Between the propane and the furnace are the tongs for lifting the crucible out of the furnace. Lying on pavers in the middle of the photo are the pouring tongs. At right is a sheet of metal that you'll set your molds on to pour into. In the upper right corner of the metal is a mold to pour any leftover metal into so that we can melt it down again for a future pour. This arrangement lets you maneuver from furnace to tongs to pouring area with a reduced likelihood of getting tripped up.<br />
<br />
Now that you've got your layout set up, we get the furnace ready for melting!<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Make sure that both doors on the blacksmith shop are open.<br />
# Ensure that the furnace is on the outside on the pavers, and the gas is on the inside of the door, as mentioned and depicted above. This is a safety issue.<br />
# Connect the furnace gas supply to the propane tank. Remember that the threads are reversed (so twist backwards from what you normally would). Ensure that the valve is tightened properly, passed visual inspection, and appears undamaged. If uncertain, '''please ask'''. Folks familiar with the foundry chat in our Foundry and Blacksmithing channels on Mattermost. Please do '''not''' adjust the burner that goes into the furnace -- it is already calibrated as needed, and changing it could upset the air/fuel mixture required for casting.<br />
# Open the furnace (see [https://youtu.be/XUEq-18ibDA this video]) and load the crucible (see photo below). Your metal should be in the crucible. Use the correct crucible for the metal being used.<br />
# Turn on the propane tank to 10 psi.<br />
# Light the furnace using the hand-held propane torch.<br />
# Close the furnace lid.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
It'll vary by metal, but you should plan for a half hour or so to get the metal melting (this is the case for aluminum, at least). While the metal is heating, you can prepare your molds.<br />
<br />
To open the lid on the furnace, grab the handle at the top and push your foot down on the pedal at the base of the furnace. Then gently pivot the top around to the side of the furnace. Remember to block the wheels first so the furnace doesn't roll. You should find three little pucks in the bottom as pictured below. Space them out equally in the center of the furnace in a position that will allow the base of the crucible to rest securely on the pucks without tipping. '''Before putting the crucible into the furnace''', put a sheet of cardboard or paper towel on top of the pucks. This provides a layer of carbon between the crucible and pucks that will reduce the likelihood of the pucks sticking to the bottom of the crucible.<br />
<br />
Use the pick-up tongs to lift the crucible carefully and lower it in to balance on the pucks.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Foundry furnace seen from above.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Preparing Molds ==<br />
On the sand table, you'll find some square wooden molds. While there are various ways to make molds in sand, the method we use for the authorization uses a plastic mold with sand packed tightly around it. To get your sand casting mold ready, follow these steps:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Near the sand table, you'll find a bin of our sand, which is a mixture (not straight sand) designed for casting. Dig through this and stir it up a bit so that you can get some handfuls of sand that will pack into a nugget that doesn't readily crumble. There's not an exact way to determine that you've got the right consistency. In the auth class, you'll get to try this out to get an idea. So, step one s to have your sand ready to go.<br />
# Select one of our pre-printed plastic molds or create a design of your own.<br />
# Place this into one of the wooden frames with the design facing upward toward you on the table.<br />
# Dust it with a bit of talcum powder, which helps the cooled metal release from the mold later. You can put a little powder on top of the mold and then brush it around a little. You want a very light dusting.<br />
# Put some sand into the mold and pack it into the frame using one of the wooden rammers. You want a pretty tight pack. Do this in layers rather than dumping a bunch of sand in and trying to pack it all at once. <br />
# Once the sand is well packed and level with the top of the frame, carefully turn it upside down. You should see the bottom of your plastic mold.<br />
# Very gently tap the mold to help it release.<br />
# In our pre-printed molds, there's a tiny hole in the back. You can gently put a screw into this and tighten just enough to help you lift the plastic out of the sand. If you're making your own molds, devise a way to aid removal.<br />
# Now look at the impression the mold has left in the sand. If it doesn't look right, you can redo the process until you get a "clean" impression to pour the metal into.<br />
# Place your frame on the metal sheet you've set out for that purpose (see Setup above).<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Pictures showing different steps/states in this process appear below.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Plastic mold inside wooden frame.jpg|Plastic mold inside wooden frame<br />
File:Powdered Mold.jpg|A mold with a light dusting of talcum powder, sitting inside a frame<br />
Ramming sand into the frame.jpg|Ramming sand into the frame<br />
A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside.jpg|A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside<br />
The mold completed.jpg|The mold completed<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Skimming Dross ==<br />
Once your metal has melted, you'll want to clean it up a bit by applying flux (salt or borax) liberally to the skimmer and gently stirring and prodding the molten metal. You'll want to skim the top particularly, and you know you're done when the metal is shiny with little or no crud floating on top. As you skim, occasionally deposit dross into the dross bin to cool. Do this carefully, as you don't want to spatter hot metal waste on anyone or anything. Pictured below you'll see the dross bin currently in use and the "skim" end of the skimmer.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Dross Bin.jpg|Dross bin with cooled dross fragments<br />
Dross Skimmer.jpg|Skimmer for removing dross from the molten metal, loaded with flux<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Pouring the Metal ==<br />
So, you've got your environment set up and your casting frame ready to pour metal in. <br />
<br />
Look again at the suggested setup above. Think about how you'll open the furnace, get the tongs to hand, transfer to the ring shank, pour, and reverse the steps. Think about how you'll maneuver safely without damaging yourself, others, and our equipment and shop.<br />
<br />
The steps are as follows:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Turn the psi on the propane tank down to 5 while pouring.<br />
# Open the furnace by stepping on the pedal and using the handle to swing the top out to the opposite side of the furnace from where you'll be pouring.<br />
# Use the tongs to carefully lift the crucible from the furnace. Make sure you clear the rim of the furnace, and watch out for tripping hazards.<br />
# If you follow the setup suggested above, you'll have the ring and the handle of the ring shank both sitting on pavers. Use the tongs to place the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, sitting on the paver. Make sure to orient the pouring lip of the crucible so that it is toward the mold(s) you'll be pouring into.<br />
# Move the tongs out of your way.<br />
# Use the ring shank to pick up the crucible, making sure the crucible is held securely. <br />
# Pour gently into the frame. A controlled pour will reduce the odds of your splashing molten metal and will conserve metal.<br />
# Use the ring shank to place the crucible back down on the paver.<br />
# Use the tongs to lift the crucible and place it back into the furnace, making sure that the crucible sits securely on the pucks in the bottom.<br />
# Close the lid of the furnace.<br />
# Turn the psi back up to 10 if you plan to continue pouring for a while yet.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Here's a video of this in action:<br />
<br />
TODO: FIGURE OUT WHERE TO UPLOAD VIDEO TO AND LINK HERE<br />
<br />
== Extracting the Casting ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Shutting Down ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Sourcing Metal ==<br />
Please do not melt aluminum cans in the furnace. <br />
TODO</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Foundry&diff=4381Foundry2024-10-03T03:12:59Z<p>Dllh: /* Skimming Dross */</p>
<hr />
<div>== '''WORK IN PROGRESS''' == <br />
The Foundry is a tool housed within [[Blacksmithing]] zone and can only be used practically if you have the Blacksmithing auth, which is required to get a key to the blacksmithing building.<br />
<br />
== Safety ==<br />
=== Gear ===<br />
Working in a foundry is very dangerous! We provide safety gear to help reduce the odds of your getting hurt. To use the foundry, you must wear the following:<br />
<br><br />
<br />
* Safety glasses, ideally shaded to protect your eyes<br />
* Closed-toed shoes (steel toes aren't a bad idea)<br />
* Long sleeves and pants in natural fibers (cotton, flannel). We recommend borrowing a welding shirt from Metalworking.<br />
* Ear protection if the noise bothers you<br />
* A face screen to protect your face (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather heat-resistant spats to protect your shins and feet (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather sleeves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather gloves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather apron (provided by KM)<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Everything you do in the foundry must be very intentional. Place each step carefully, double check that no one is too close for your personal comfort (and their safety), move methodically and consistently when possible.<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
Any time you heat up metal, you run the risk of releasing toxic fumes. It's important to know what metal you're using and what the signs suggest that you have inhaled the fumes. We pour outside the building in part to give fumes more room to disperse, but you should look out for smoke coming from the furnace and adjust your position or ventilation as needed. If you have one, you might like to wear a respirator. Below you'll find a few common types of fumes to beware of.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Zinc fumes ====<br />
* Commonly released when casting metals like '''brass'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can cause flu-like symptoms (known as metal fume fever), nausea, headaches, and muscle aches.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to chronic respiratory issues, such as asthma or other lung damage.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Carbon monoxide ====<br />
* Released during incomplete combustion of fuels.<br />
* Exposure can lead to dizziness, confusion, or even unconsciousness in severe cases.<br />
* Long-term exposure can cause '''heart and brain damage''' due to oxygen deprivation.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Sulfur dioxide ====<br />
* Released during the casting of metals like '''iron and copper'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can irritate the respiratory system, causing coughing, shortness of breath, and a burning sensation.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to '''chronic lung disease''' or aggravation of pre-existing conditions like asthma.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Hydrogen chloride ====<br />
* Released when metals like zinc or copper are cast.<br />
* Causes severe irritation to the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract.<br />
* Long-term exposure can result in chronic bronchitis or '''permanent lung damage'''.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Tools ==<br />
* The '''furnace''' is the cylinder that contains the fire that melts your metal.<br />
* The '''propane tank''' provides fuel for the fire.<br />
* The '''crucible''' is the special container that will hold your metal while it melts. You'll pour from the crucible into your mold.<br />
* The '''tongs''' are specially made to fit the crucible and should be used for lowering the crucible into the furnace and it out.<br />
* The '''ring shank''' is the tool you'll use to pour the metal from the crucible. When pouring, you use the tongs to set the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, and then you pour from the ring shank.<br />
* The '''cope''' and '''drags'''... (I DON'T REMEMBER. LET'S UPDATE.)<br />
* The '''ingots''' are the metal you'll put into the crucible to melt. When you finish pouring into your molds, pour your leftover metal into an ingot tray to harden into useful shapes for inserting back into the crucible for a future pour.<br />
* The '''sand table''' lives in the corner (near left as you enter the front doors) and is useful for making your molds and extracting your finished product from the molds. A bin underneath collects any sand you push through the holes on the surface so that it can be re-used later.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Environment Setup ==<br />
Wheel the furnace out onto a flat surface just outside the front door of the blacksmith shop. There should be pavers set out that you can park the furnace on. Block the wheels with something that will prevent the furnace from moving (one day, we may add chucks or locking wheels). <br />
<br />
There should be a propane tank near the furnace, but note that the propane tank should stay inside the shop door while the furnace should be outside the door. Think about how you'll move around the furnace with the tongs and molten metal. Here's a layout that worked well in testing:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Foundry Setup.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Note that the furnace is sitting on pavers on the gravel. The propane tank is inside the shop. Between the propane and the furnace are the tongs for lifting the crucible out of the furnace. Lying on pavers in the middle of the photo are the pouring tongs. At right is a sheet of metal that you'll set your molds on to pour into. In the upper right corner of the metal is a mold to pour any leftover metal into so that we can melt it down again for a future pour. This arrangement lets you maneuver from furnace to tongs to pouring area with a reduced likelihood of getting tripped up.<br />
<br />
Now that you've got your layout set up, we get the furnace ready for melting!<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Make sure that both doors on the blacksmith shop are open.<br />
# Ensure that the furnace is on the outside on the pavers, and the gas is on the inside of the door, as mentioned and depicted above. This is a safety issue.<br />
# Connect the furnace gas supply to the propane tank. Remember that the threads are reversed (so twist backwards from what you normally would). Ensure that the valve is tightened properly, passed visual inspection, and appears undamaged. If uncertain, '''please ask'''. Folks familiar with the foundry chat in our Foundry and Blacksmithing channels on Mattermost. Please do '''not''' adjust the burner that goes into the furnace -- it is already calibrated as needed, and changing it could upset the air/fuel mixture required for casting.<br />
# Open the furnace (TODO: VIDEO LINK HERE) and load the crucible (see photo below). Your metal should be in the crucible. Use the correct crucible for the metal being used.<br />
# Turn on the propane tank to 10 psi.<br />
# Light the furnace using the hand-held propane torch.<br />
# Close the furnace lid.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
It'll vary by metal, but you should plan for a half hour or so to get the metal melting (this is the case for aluminum, at least). While the metal is heating, you can prepare your molds.<br />
<br />
To open the lid on the furnace, grab the handle at the top and push your foot down on the pedal at the base of the furnace. Then gently pivot the top around to the side of the furnace. Remember to block the wheels first so the furnace doesn't roll. You should find three little pucks in the bottom as pictured below. Space them out equally in the center of the furnace in a position that will allow the base of the crucible to rest securely on the pucks without tipping. '''Before putting the crucible into the furnace''', put a sheet of cardboard or paper towel on top of the pucks. This provides a layer of carbon between the crucible and pucks that will reduce the likelihood of the pucks sticking to the bottom of the crucible.<br />
<br />
Use the pick-up tongs to lift the crucible carefully and lower it in to balance on the pucks.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Foundry furnace seen from above.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Preparing Molds ==<br />
On the sand table, you'll find some square wooden molds. While there are various ways to make molds in sand, the method we use for the authorization uses a plastic mold with sand packed tightly around it. To get your sand casting mold ready, follow these steps:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Near the sand table, you'll find a bin of our sand, which is a mixture (not straight sand) designed for casting. Dig through this and stir it up a bit so that you can get some handfuls of sand that will pack into a nugget that doesn't readily crumble. There's not an exact way to determine that you've got the right consistency. In the auth class, you'll get to try this out to get an idea. So, step one s to have your sand ready to go.<br />
# Select one of our pre-printed plastic molds or create a design of your own.<br />
# Place this into one of the wooden frames with the design facing upward toward you on the table.<br />
# Dust it with a bit of talcum powder, which helps the cooled metal release from the mold later. You can put a little powder on top of the mold and then brush it around a little. You want a very light dusting.<br />
# Put some sand into the mold and pack it into the frame using one of the wooden rammers. You want a pretty tight pack. Do this in layers rather than dumping a bunch of sand in and trying to pack it all at once. <br />
# Once the sand is well packed and level with the top of the frame, carefully turn it upside down. You should see the bottom of your plastic mold.<br />
# Very gently tap the mold to help it release.<br />
# In our pre-printed molds, there's a tiny hole in the back. You can gently put a screw into this and tighten just enough to help you lift the plastic out of the sand. If you're making your own molds, devise a way to aid removal.<br />
# Now look at the impression the mold has left in the sand. If it doesn't look right, you can redo the process until you get a "clean" impression to pour the metal into.<br />
# Place your frame on the metal sheet you've set out for that purpose (see Setup above).<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Pictures showing different steps/states in this process appear below.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Plastic mold inside wooden frame.jpg|Plastic mold inside wooden frame<br />
File:Powdered Mold.jpg|A mold with a light dusting of talcum powder, sitting inside a frame<br />
Ramming sand into the frame.jpg|Ramming sand into the frame<br />
A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside.jpg|A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside<br />
The mold completed.jpg|The mold completed<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Skimming Dross ==<br />
Once your metal has melted, you'll want to clean it up a bit by applying flux (salt or borax) liberally to the skimmer and gently stirring and prodding the molten metal. You'll want to skim the top particularly, and you know you're done when the metal is shiny with little or no crud floating on top. As you skim, occasionally deposit dross into the dross bin to cool. Do this carefully, as you don't want to spatter hot metal waste on anyone or anything. Pictured below you'll see the dross bin currently in use and the "skim" end of the skimmer.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Dross Bin.jpg|Dross bin with cooled dross fragments<br />
Dross Skimmer.jpg|Skimmer for removing dross from the molten metal, loaded with flux<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Pouring the Metal ==<br />
So, you've got your environment set up and your casting frame ready to pour metal in. <br />
<br />
Look again at the suggested setup above. Think about how you'll open the furnace, get the tongs to hand, transfer to the ring shank, pour, and reverse the steps. Think about how you'll maneuver safely without damaging yourself, others, and our equipment and shop.<br />
<br />
The steps are as follows:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Turn the psi on the propane tank down to 5 while pouring.<br />
# Open the furnace by stepping on the pedal and using the handle to swing the top out to the opposite side of the furnace from where you'll be pouring.<br />
# Use the tongs to carefully lift the crucible from the furnace. Make sure you clear the rim of the furnace, and watch out for tripping hazards.<br />
# If you follow the setup suggested above, you'll have the ring and the handle of the ring shank both sitting on pavers. Use the tongs to place the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, sitting on the paver. Make sure to orient the pouring lip of the crucible so that it is toward the mold(s) you'll be pouring into.<br />
# Move the tongs out of your way.<br />
# Use the ring shank to pick up the crucible, making sure the crucible is held securely. <br />
# Pour gently into the frame. A controlled pour will reduce the odds of your splashing molten metal and will conserve metal.<br />
# Use the ring shank to place the crucible back down on the paver.<br />
# Use the tongs to lift the crucible and place it back into the furnace, making sure that the crucible sits securely on the pucks in the bottom.<br />
# Close the lid of the furnace.<br />
# Turn the psi back up to 10 if you plan to continue pouring for a while yet.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Here's a video of this in action:<br />
<br />
TODO: FIGURE OUT WHERE TO UPLOAD VIDEO TO AND LINK HERE<br />
<br />
== Extracting the Casting ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Shutting Down ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Sourcing Metal ==<br />
Please do not melt aluminum cans in the furnace. <br />
TODO</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Foundry&diff=4380Foundry2024-10-03T03:12:30Z<p>Dllh: /* Skimming Dross */</p>
<hr />
<div>== '''WORK IN PROGRESS''' == <br />
The Foundry is a tool housed within [[Blacksmithing]] zone and can only be used practically if you have the Blacksmithing auth, which is required to get a key to the blacksmithing building.<br />
<br />
== Safety ==<br />
=== Gear ===<br />
Working in a foundry is very dangerous! We provide safety gear to help reduce the odds of your getting hurt. To use the foundry, you must wear the following:<br />
<br><br />
<br />
* Safety glasses, ideally shaded to protect your eyes<br />
* Closed-toed shoes (steel toes aren't a bad idea)<br />
* Long sleeves and pants in natural fibers (cotton, flannel). We recommend borrowing a welding shirt from Metalworking.<br />
* Ear protection if the noise bothers you<br />
* A face screen to protect your face (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather heat-resistant spats to protect your shins and feet (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather sleeves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather gloves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather apron (provided by KM)<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Everything you do in the foundry must be very intentional. Place each step carefully, double check that no one is too close for your personal comfort (and their safety), move methodically and consistently when possible.<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
Any time you heat up metal, you run the risk of releasing toxic fumes. It's important to know what metal you're using and what the signs suggest that you have inhaled the fumes. We pour outside the building in part to give fumes more room to disperse, but you should look out for smoke coming from the furnace and adjust your position or ventilation as needed. If you have one, you might like to wear a respirator. Below you'll find a few common types of fumes to beware of.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Zinc fumes ====<br />
* Commonly released when casting metals like '''brass'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can cause flu-like symptoms (known as metal fume fever), nausea, headaches, and muscle aches.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to chronic respiratory issues, such as asthma or other lung damage.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Carbon monoxide ====<br />
* Released during incomplete combustion of fuels.<br />
* Exposure can lead to dizziness, confusion, or even unconsciousness in severe cases.<br />
* Long-term exposure can cause '''heart and brain damage''' due to oxygen deprivation.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Sulfur dioxide ====<br />
* Released during the casting of metals like '''iron and copper'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can irritate the respiratory system, causing coughing, shortness of breath, and a burning sensation.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to '''chronic lung disease''' or aggravation of pre-existing conditions like asthma.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Hydrogen chloride ====<br />
* Released when metals like zinc or copper are cast.<br />
* Causes severe irritation to the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract.<br />
* Long-term exposure can result in chronic bronchitis or '''permanent lung damage'''.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Tools ==<br />
* The '''furnace''' is the cylinder that contains the fire that melts your metal.<br />
* The '''propane tank''' provides fuel for the fire.<br />
* The '''crucible''' is the special container that will hold your metal while it melts. You'll pour from the crucible into your mold.<br />
* The '''tongs''' are specially made to fit the crucible and should be used for lowering the crucible into the furnace and it out.<br />
* The '''ring shank''' is the tool you'll use to pour the metal from the crucible. When pouring, you use the tongs to set the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, and then you pour from the ring shank.<br />
* The '''cope''' and '''drags'''... (I DON'T REMEMBER. LET'S UPDATE.)<br />
* The '''ingots''' are the metal you'll put into the crucible to melt. When you finish pouring into your molds, pour your leftover metal into an ingot tray to harden into useful shapes for inserting back into the crucible for a future pour.<br />
* The '''sand table''' lives in the corner (near left as you enter the front doors) and is useful for making your molds and extracting your finished product from the molds. A bin underneath collects any sand you push through the holes on the surface so that it can be re-used later.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Environment Setup ==<br />
Wheel the furnace out onto a flat surface just outside the front door of the blacksmith shop. There should be pavers set out that you can park the furnace on. Block the wheels with something that will prevent the furnace from moving (one day, we may add chucks or locking wheels). <br />
<br />
There should be a propane tank near the furnace, but note that the propane tank should stay inside the shop door while the furnace should be outside the door. Think about how you'll move around the furnace with the tongs and molten metal. Here's a layout that worked well in testing:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Foundry Setup.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Note that the furnace is sitting on pavers on the gravel. The propane tank is inside the shop. Between the propane and the furnace are the tongs for lifting the crucible out of the furnace. Lying on pavers in the middle of the photo are the pouring tongs. At right is a sheet of metal that you'll set your molds on to pour into. In the upper right corner of the metal is a mold to pour any leftover metal into so that we can melt it down again for a future pour. This arrangement lets you maneuver from furnace to tongs to pouring area with a reduced likelihood of getting tripped up.<br />
<br />
Now that you've got your layout set up, we get the furnace ready for melting!<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Make sure that both doors on the blacksmith shop are open.<br />
# Ensure that the furnace is on the outside on the pavers, and the gas is on the inside of the door, as mentioned and depicted above. This is a safety issue.<br />
# Connect the furnace gas supply to the propane tank. Remember that the threads are reversed (so twist backwards from what you normally would). Ensure that the valve is tightened properly, passed visual inspection, and appears undamaged. If uncertain, '''please ask'''. Folks familiar with the foundry chat in our Foundry and Blacksmithing channels on Mattermost. Please do '''not''' adjust the burner that goes into the furnace -- it is already calibrated as needed, and changing it could upset the air/fuel mixture required for casting.<br />
# Open the furnace (TODO: VIDEO LINK HERE) and load the crucible (see photo below). Your metal should be in the crucible. Use the correct crucible for the metal being used.<br />
# Turn on the propane tank to 10 psi.<br />
# Light the furnace using the hand-held propane torch.<br />
# Close the furnace lid.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
It'll vary by metal, but you should plan for a half hour or so to get the metal melting (this is the case for aluminum, at least). While the metal is heating, you can prepare your molds.<br />
<br />
To open the lid on the furnace, grab the handle at the top and push your foot down on the pedal at the base of the furnace. Then gently pivot the top around to the side of the furnace. Remember to block the wheels first so the furnace doesn't roll. You should find three little pucks in the bottom as pictured below. Space them out equally in the center of the furnace in a position that will allow the base of the crucible to rest securely on the pucks without tipping. '''Before putting the crucible into the furnace''', put a sheet of cardboard or paper towel on top of the pucks. This provides a layer of carbon between the crucible and pucks that will reduce the likelihood of the pucks sticking to the bottom of the crucible.<br />
<br />
Use the pick-up tongs to lift the crucible carefully and lower it in to balance on the pucks.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Foundry furnace seen from above.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Preparing Molds ==<br />
On the sand table, you'll find some square wooden molds. While there are various ways to make molds in sand, the method we use for the authorization uses a plastic mold with sand packed tightly around it. To get your sand casting mold ready, follow these steps:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Near the sand table, you'll find a bin of our sand, which is a mixture (not straight sand) designed for casting. Dig through this and stir it up a bit so that you can get some handfuls of sand that will pack into a nugget that doesn't readily crumble. There's not an exact way to determine that you've got the right consistency. In the auth class, you'll get to try this out to get an idea. So, step one s to have your sand ready to go.<br />
# Select one of our pre-printed plastic molds or create a design of your own.<br />
# Place this into one of the wooden frames with the design facing upward toward you on the table.<br />
# Dust it with a bit of talcum powder, which helps the cooled metal release from the mold later. You can put a little powder on top of the mold and then brush it around a little. You want a very light dusting.<br />
# Put some sand into the mold and pack it into the frame using one of the wooden rammers. You want a pretty tight pack. Do this in layers rather than dumping a bunch of sand in and trying to pack it all at once. <br />
# Once the sand is well packed and level with the top of the frame, carefully turn it upside down. You should see the bottom of your plastic mold.<br />
# Very gently tap the mold to help it release.<br />
# In our pre-printed molds, there's a tiny hole in the back. You can gently put a screw into this and tighten just enough to help you lift the plastic out of the sand. If you're making your own molds, devise a way to aid removal.<br />
# Now look at the impression the mold has left in the sand. If it doesn't look right, you can redo the process until you get a "clean" impression to pour the metal into.<br />
# Place your frame on the metal sheet you've set out for that purpose (see Setup above).<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Pictures showing different steps/states in this process appear below.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Plastic mold inside wooden frame.jpg|Plastic mold inside wooden frame<br />
File:Powdered Mold.jpg|A mold with a light dusting of talcum powder, sitting inside a frame<br />
Ramming sand into the frame.jpg|Ramming sand into the frame<br />
A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside.jpg|A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside<br />
The mold completed.jpg|The mold completed<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Skimming Dross ==<br />
Once your metal has melted, you'll want to clean it up a bit by applying flux (salt or borax) liberally to the skimmer and gently stirring and prodding the molten metal. You'll want to skim the top particularly, and you know you're done when the metal is shiny with little or no crud floating on top. As you skim, occasionally deposit dross into the dross bin to cool. Do this carefully, as you don't want to spatter hot metal waste on anyone or anything. Pictured below you'll see the dross bin currently in use and the "skim" end of the skimmer.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Dross Bin.jpg|Dross bin with cooled dross fragments<br />
Dross Skimmer.jpg|Skimmer for removing dross from the molten metal<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Pouring the Metal ==<br />
So, you've got your environment set up and your casting frame ready to pour metal in. <br />
<br />
Look again at the suggested setup above. Think about how you'll open the furnace, get the tongs to hand, transfer to the ring shank, pour, and reverse the steps. Think about how you'll maneuver safely without damaging yourself, others, and our equipment and shop.<br />
<br />
The steps are as follows:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Turn the psi on the propane tank down to 5 while pouring.<br />
# Open the furnace by stepping on the pedal and using the handle to swing the top out to the opposite side of the furnace from where you'll be pouring.<br />
# Use the tongs to carefully lift the crucible from the furnace. Make sure you clear the rim of the furnace, and watch out for tripping hazards.<br />
# If you follow the setup suggested above, you'll have the ring and the handle of the ring shank both sitting on pavers. Use the tongs to place the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, sitting on the paver. Make sure to orient the pouring lip of the crucible so that it is toward the mold(s) you'll be pouring into.<br />
# Move the tongs out of your way.<br />
# Use the ring shank to pick up the crucible, making sure the crucible is held securely. <br />
# Pour gently into the frame. A controlled pour will reduce the odds of your splashing molten metal and will conserve metal.<br />
# Use the ring shank to place the crucible back down on the paver.<br />
# Use the tongs to lift the crucible and place it back into the furnace, making sure that the crucible sits securely on the pucks in the bottom.<br />
# Close the lid of the furnace.<br />
# Turn the psi back up to 10 if you plan to continue pouring for a while yet.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Here's a video of this in action:<br />
<br />
TODO: FIGURE OUT WHERE TO UPLOAD VIDEO TO AND LINK HERE<br />
<br />
== Extracting the Casting ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Shutting Down ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Sourcing Metal ==<br />
Please do not melt aluminum cans in the furnace. <br />
TODO</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=File:Dross_Skimmer.jpg&diff=4379File:Dross Skimmer.jpg2024-10-03T03:11:53Z<p>Dllh: Dllh uploaded a new version of File:Dross Skimmer.jpg</p>
<hr />
<div>Dross Skimmer</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Foundry&diff=4378Foundry2024-10-03T03:09:46Z<p>Dllh: /* Skimming Dross */</p>
<hr />
<div>== '''WORK IN PROGRESS''' == <br />
The Foundry is a tool housed within [[Blacksmithing]] zone and can only be used practically if you have the Blacksmithing auth, which is required to get a key to the blacksmithing building.<br />
<br />
== Safety ==<br />
=== Gear ===<br />
Working in a foundry is very dangerous! We provide safety gear to help reduce the odds of your getting hurt. To use the foundry, you must wear the following:<br />
<br><br />
<br />
* Safety glasses, ideally shaded to protect your eyes<br />
* Closed-toed shoes (steel toes aren't a bad idea)<br />
* Long sleeves and pants in natural fibers (cotton, flannel). We recommend borrowing a welding shirt from Metalworking.<br />
* Ear protection if the noise bothers you<br />
* A face screen to protect your face (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather heat-resistant spats to protect your shins and feet (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather sleeves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather gloves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather apron (provided by KM)<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Everything you do in the foundry must be very intentional. Place each step carefully, double check that no one is too close for your personal comfort (and their safety), move methodically and consistently when possible.<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
Any time you heat up metal, you run the risk of releasing toxic fumes. It's important to know what metal you're using and what the signs suggest that you have inhaled the fumes. We pour outside the building in part to give fumes more room to disperse, but you should look out for smoke coming from the furnace and adjust your position or ventilation as needed. If you have one, you might like to wear a respirator. Below you'll find a few common types of fumes to beware of.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Zinc fumes ====<br />
* Commonly released when casting metals like '''brass'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can cause flu-like symptoms (known as metal fume fever), nausea, headaches, and muscle aches.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to chronic respiratory issues, such as asthma or other lung damage.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Carbon monoxide ====<br />
* Released during incomplete combustion of fuels.<br />
* Exposure can lead to dizziness, confusion, or even unconsciousness in severe cases.<br />
* Long-term exposure can cause '''heart and brain damage''' due to oxygen deprivation.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Sulfur dioxide ====<br />
* Released during the casting of metals like '''iron and copper'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can irritate the respiratory system, causing coughing, shortness of breath, and a burning sensation.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to '''chronic lung disease''' or aggravation of pre-existing conditions like asthma.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Hydrogen chloride ====<br />
* Released when metals like zinc or copper are cast.<br />
* Causes severe irritation to the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract.<br />
* Long-term exposure can result in chronic bronchitis or '''permanent lung damage'''.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Tools ==<br />
* The '''furnace''' is the cylinder that contains the fire that melts your metal.<br />
* The '''propane tank''' provides fuel for the fire.<br />
* The '''crucible''' is the special container that will hold your metal while it melts. You'll pour from the crucible into your mold.<br />
* The '''tongs''' are specially made to fit the crucible and should be used for lowering the crucible into the furnace and it out.<br />
* The '''ring shank''' is the tool you'll use to pour the metal from the crucible. When pouring, you use the tongs to set the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, and then you pour from the ring shank.<br />
* The '''cope''' and '''drags'''... (I DON'T REMEMBER. LET'S UPDATE.)<br />
* The '''ingots''' are the metal you'll put into the crucible to melt. When you finish pouring into your molds, pour your leftover metal into an ingot tray to harden into useful shapes for inserting back into the crucible for a future pour.<br />
* The '''sand table''' lives in the corner (near left as you enter the front doors) and is useful for making your molds and extracting your finished product from the molds. A bin underneath collects any sand you push through the holes on the surface so that it can be re-used later.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Environment Setup ==<br />
Wheel the furnace out onto a flat surface just outside the front door of the blacksmith shop. There should be pavers set out that you can park the furnace on. Block the wheels with something that will prevent the furnace from moving (one day, we may add chucks or locking wheels). <br />
<br />
There should be a propane tank near the furnace, but note that the propane tank should stay inside the shop door while the furnace should be outside the door. Think about how you'll move around the furnace with the tongs and molten metal. Here's a layout that worked well in testing:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Foundry Setup.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Note that the furnace is sitting on pavers on the gravel. The propane tank is inside the shop. Between the propane and the furnace are the tongs for lifting the crucible out of the furnace. Lying on pavers in the middle of the photo are the pouring tongs. At right is a sheet of metal that you'll set your molds on to pour into. In the upper right corner of the metal is a mold to pour any leftover metal into so that we can melt it down again for a future pour. This arrangement lets you maneuver from furnace to tongs to pouring area with a reduced likelihood of getting tripped up.<br />
<br />
Now that you've got your layout set up, we get the furnace ready for melting!<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Make sure that both doors on the blacksmith shop are open.<br />
# Ensure that the furnace is on the outside on the pavers, and the gas is on the inside of the door, as mentioned and depicted above. This is a safety issue.<br />
# Connect the furnace gas supply to the propane tank. Remember that the threads are reversed (so twist backwards from what you normally would). Ensure that the valve is tightened properly, passed visual inspection, and appears undamaged. If uncertain, '''please ask'''. Folks familiar with the foundry chat in our Foundry and Blacksmithing channels on Mattermost. Please do '''not''' adjust the burner that goes into the furnace -- it is already calibrated as needed, and changing it could upset the air/fuel mixture required for casting.<br />
# Open the furnace (TODO: VIDEO LINK HERE) and load the crucible (see photo below). Your metal should be in the crucible. Use the correct crucible for the metal being used.<br />
# Turn on the propane tank to 10 psi.<br />
# Light the furnace using the hand-held propane torch.<br />
# Close the furnace lid.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
It'll vary by metal, but you should plan for a half hour or so to get the metal melting (this is the case for aluminum, at least). While the metal is heating, you can prepare your molds.<br />
<br />
To open the lid on the furnace, grab the handle at the top and push your foot down on the pedal at the base of the furnace. Then gently pivot the top around to the side of the furnace. Remember to block the wheels first so the furnace doesn't roll. You should find three little pucks in the bottom as pictured below. Space them out equally in the center of the furnace in a position that will allow the base of the crucible to rest securely on the pucks without tipping. '''Before putting the crucible into the furnace''', put a sheet of cardboard or paper towel on top of the pucks. This provides a layer of carbon between the crucible and pucks that will reduce the likelihood of the pucks sticking to the bottom of the crucible.<br />
<br />
Use the pick-up tongs to lift the crucible carefully and lower it in to balance on the pucks.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Foundry furnace seen from above.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Preparing Molds ==<br />
On the sand table, you'll find some square wooden molds. While there are various ways to make molds in sand, the method we use for the authorization uses a plastic mold with sand packed tightly around it. To get your sand casting mold ready, follow these steps:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Near the sand table, you'll find a bin of our sand, which is a mixture (not straight sand) designed for casting. Dig through this and stir it up a bit so that you can get some handfuls of sand that will pack into a nugget that doesn't readily crumble. There's not an exact way to determine that you've got the right consistency. In the auth class, you'll get to try this out to get an idea. So, step one s to have your sand ready to go.<br />
# Select one of our pre-printed plastic molds or create a design of your own.<br />
# Place this into one of the wooden frames with the design facing upward toward you on the table.<br />
# Dust it with a bit of talcum powder, which helps the cooled metal release from the mold later. You can put a little powder on top of the mold and then brush it around a little. You want a very light dusting.<br />
# Put some sand into the mold and pack it into the frame using one of the wooden rammers. You want a pretty tight pack. Do this in layers rather than dumping a bunch of sand in and trying to pack it all at once. <br />
# Once the sand is well packed and level with the top of the frame, carefully turn it upside down. You should see the bottom of your plastic mold.<br />
# Very gently tap the mold to help it release.<br />
# In our pre-printed molds, there's a tiny hole in the back. You can gently put a screw into this and tighten just enough to help you lift the plastic out of the sand. If you're making your own molds, devise a way to aid removal.<br />
# Now look at the impression the mold has left in the sand. If it doesn't look right, you can redo the process until you get a "clean" impression to pour the metal into.<br />
# Place your frame on the metal sheet you've set out for that purpose (see Setup above).<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Pictures showing different steps/states in this process appear below.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Plastic mold inside wooden frame.jpg|Plastic mold inside wooden frame<br />
File:Powdered Mold.jpg|A mold with a light dusting of talcum powder, sitting inside a frame<br />
Ramming sand into the frame.jpg|Ramming sand into the frame<br />
A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside.jpg|A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside<br />
The mold completed.jpg|The mold completed<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Skimming Dross ==<br />
Once your metal has melted, you'll want to clean it up a bit by applying flux (salt or borax) liberally to the skimmer and gently stirring and prodding the molten metal. You'll want to skim the top particularly, and you know you're done when the metal is shiny with little or no crud floating on top. As you skim, occasionally deposit dross into the dross bin to cool. Do this carefully, as you don't want to spatter hot metal waste on anyone or anything. Pictured below you'll see the dross bin currently in use and the "skim" end of the skimmer.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Dross Bin.jpg|Dross bin with cooled dross fragments<br />
Dross Skimmer.jpg|Skimmer for removing dross from the molten metal<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Pouring the Metal ==<br />
So, you've got your environment set up and your casting frame ready to pour metal in. <br />
<br />
Look again at the suggested setup above. Think about how you'll open the furnace, get the tongs to hand, transfer to the ring shank, pour, and reverse the steps. Think about how you'll maneuver safely without damaging yourself, others, and our equipment and shop.<br />
<br />
The steps are as follows:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Turn the psi on the propane tank down to 5 while pouring.<br />
# Open the furnace by stepping on the pedal and using the handle to swing the top out to the opposite side of the furnace from where you'll be pouring.<br />
# Use the tongs to carefully lift the crucible from the furnace. Make sure you clear the rim of the furnace, and watch out for tripping hazards.<br />
# If you follow the setup suggested above, you'll have the ring and the handle of the ring shank both sitting on pavers. Use the tongs to place the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, sitting on the paver. Make sure to orient the pouring lip of the crucible so that it is toward the mold(s) you'll be pouring into.<br />
# Move the tongs out of your way.<br />
# Use the ring shank to pick up the crucible, making sure the crucible is held securely. <br />
# Pour gently into the frame. A controlled pour will reduce the odds of your splashing molten metal and will conserve metal.<br />
# Use the ring shank to place the crucible back down on the paver.<br />
# Use the tongs to lift the crucible and place it back into the furnace, making sure that the crucible sits securely on the pucks in the bottom.<br />
# Close the lid of the furnace.<br />
# Turn the psi back up to 10 if you plan to continue pouring for a while yet.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Here's a video of this in action:<br />
<br />
TODO: FIGURE OUT WHERE TO UPLOAD VIDEO TO AND LINK HERE<br />
<br />
== Extracting the Casting ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Shutting Down ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Sourcing Metal ==<br />
Please do not melt aluminum cans in the furnace. <br />
TODO</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=File:Dross_Skimmer.jpg&diff=4377File:Dross Skimmer.jpg2024-10-03T03:05:57Z<p>Dllh: </p>
<hr />
<div>Dross Skimmer</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=File:Dross_Bin.jpg&diff=4376File:Dross Bin.jpg2024-10-03T03:05:04Z<p>Dllh: </p>
<hr />
<div>Dross Bin</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Foundry&diff=4375Foundry2024-10-03T02:54:42Z<p>Dllh: /* Environment Setup */</p>
<hr />
<div>== '''WORK IN PROGRESS''' == <br />
The Foundry is a tool housed within [[Blacksmithing]] zone and can only be used practically if you have the Blacksmithing auth, which is required to get a key to the blacksmithing building.<br />
<br />
== Safety ==<br />
=== Gear ===<br />
Working in a foundry is very dangerous! We provide safety gear to help reduce the odds of your getting hurt. To use the foundry, you must wear the following:<br />
<br><br />
<br />
* Safety glasses, ideally shaded to protect your eyes<br />
* Closed-toed shoes (steel toes aren't a bad idea)<br />
* Long sleeves and pants in natural fibers (cotton, flannel). We recommend borrowing a welding shirt from Metalworking.<br />
* Ear protection if the noise bothers you<br />
* A face screen to protect your face (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather heat-resistant spats to protect your shins and feet (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather sleeves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather gloves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather apron (provided by KM)<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Everything you do in the foundry must be very intentional. Place each step carefully, double check that no one is too close for your personal comfort (and their safety), move methodically and consistently when possible.<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
Any time you heat up metal, you run the risk of releasing toxic fumes. It's important to know what metal you're using and what the signs suggest that you have inhaled the fumes. We pour outside the building in part to give fumes more room to disperse, but you should look out for smoke coming from the furnace and adjust your position or ventilation as needed. If you have one, you might like to wear a respirator. Below you'll find a few common types of fumes to beware of.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Zinc fumes ====<br />
* Commonly released when casting metals like '''brass'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can cause flu-like symptoms (known as metal fume fever), nausea, headaches, and muscle aches.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to chronic respiratory issues, such as asthma or other lung damage.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Carbon monoxide ====<br />
* Released during incomplete combustion of fuels.<br />
* Exposure can lead to dizziness, confusion, or even unconsciousness in severe cases.<br />
* Long-term exposure can cause '''heart and brain damage''' due to oxygen deprivation.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Sulfur dioxide ====<br />
* Released during the casting of metals like '''iron and copper'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can irritate the respiratory system, causing coughing, shortness of breath, and a burning sensation.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to '''chronic lung disease''' or aggravation of pre-existing conditions like asthma.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Hydrogen chloride ====<br />
* Released when metals like zinc or copper are cast.<br />
* Causes severe irritation to the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract.<br />
* Long-term exposure can result in chronic bronchitis or '''permanent lung damage'''.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Tools ==<br />
* The '''furnace''' is the cylinder that contains the fire that melts your metal.<br />
* The '''propane tank''' provides fuel for the fire.<br />
* The '''crucible''' is the special container that will hold your metal while it melts. You'll pour from the crucible into your mold.<br />
* The '''tongs''' are specially made to fit the crucible and should be used for lowering the crucible into the furnace and it out.<br />
* The '''ring shank''' is the tool you'll use to pour the metal from the crucible. When pouring, you use the tongs to set the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, and then you pour from the ring shank.<br />
* The '''cope''' and '''drags'''... (I DON'T REMEMBER. LET'S UPDATE.)<br />
* The '''ingots''' are the metal you'll put into the crucible to melt. When you finish pouring into your molds, pour your leftover metal into an ingot tray to harden into useful shapes for inserting back into the crucible for a future pour.<br />
* The '''sand table''' lives in the corner (near left as you enter the front doors) and is useful for making your molds and extracting your finished product from the molds. A bin underneath collects any sand you push through the holes on the surface so that it can be re-used later.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Environment Setup ==<br />
Wheel the furnace out onto a flat surface just outside the front door of the blacksmith shop. There should be pavers set out that you can park the furnace on. Block the wheels with something that will prevent the furnace from moving (one day, we may add chucks or locking wheels). <br />
<br />
There should be a propane tank near the furnace, but note that the propane tank should stay inside the shop door while the furnace should be outside the door. Think about how you'll move around the furnace with the tongs and molten metal. Here's a layout that worked well in testing:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Foundry Setup.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Note that the furnace is sitting on pavers on the gravel. The propane tank is inside the shop. Between the propane and the furnace are the tongs for lifting the crucible out of the furnace. Lying on pavers in the middle of the photo are the pouring tongs. At right is a sheet of metal that you'll set your molds on to pour into. In the upper right corner of the metal is a mold to pour any leftover metal into so that we can melt it down again for a future pour. This arrangement lets you maneuver from furnace to tongs to pouring area with a reduced likelihood of getting tripped up.<br />
<br />
Now that you've got your layout set up, we get the furnace ready for melting!<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Make sure that both doors on the blacksmith shop are open.<br />
# Ensure that the furnace is on the outside on the pavers, and the gas is on the inside of the door, as mentioned and depicted above. This is a safety issue.<br />
# Connect the furnace gas supply to the propane tank. Remember that the threads are reversed (so twist backwards from what you normally would). Ensure that the valve is tightened properly, passed visual inspection, and appears undamaged. If uncertain, '''please ask'''. Folks familiar with the foundry chat in our Foundry and Blacksmithing channels on Mattermost. Please do '''not''' adjust the burner that goes into the furnace -- it is already calibrated as needed, and changing it could upset the air/fuel mixture required for casting.<br />
# Open the furnace (TODO: VIDEO LINK HERE) and load the crucible (see photo below). Your metal should be in the crucible. Use the correct crucible for the metal being used.<br />
# Turn on the propane tank to 10 psi.<br />
# Light the furnace using the hand-held propane torch.<br />
# Close the furnace lid.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
It'll vary by metal, but you should plan for a half hour or so to get the metal melting (this is the case for aluminum, at least). While the metal is heating, you can prepare your molds.<br />
<br />
To open the lid on the furnace, grab the handle at the top and push your foot down on the pedal at the base of the furnace. Then gently pivot the top around to the side of the furnace. Remember to block the wheels first so the furnace doesn't roll. You should find three little pucks in the bottom as pictured below. Space them out equally in the center of the furnace in a position that will allow the base of the crucible to rest securely on the pucks without tipping. '''Before putting the crucible into the furnace''', put a sheet of cardboard or paper towel on top of the pucks. This provides a layer of carbon between the crucible and pucks that will reduce the likelihood of the pucks sticking to the bottom of the crucible.<br />
<br />
Use the pick-up tongs to lift the crucible carefully and lower it in to balance on the pucks.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Foundry furnace seen from above.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Preparing Molds ==<br />
On the sand table, you'll find some square wooden molds. While there are various ways to make molds in sand, the method we use for the authorization uses a plastic mold with sand packed tightly around it. To get your sand casting mold ready, follow these steps:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Near the sand table, you'll find a bin of our sand, which is a mixture (not straight sand) designed for casting. Dig through this and stir it up a bit so that you can get some handfuls of sand that will pack into a nugget that doesn't readily crumble. There's not an exact way to determine that you've got the right consistency. In the auth class, you'll get to try this out to get an idea. So, step one s to have your sand ready to go.<br />
# Select one of our pre-printed plastic molds or create a design of your own.<br />
# Place this into one of the wooden frames with the design facing upward toward you on the table.<br />
# Dust it with a bit of talcum powder, which helps the cooled metal release from the mold later. You can put a little powder on top of the mold and then brush it around a little. You want a very light dusting.<br />
# Put some sand into the mold and pack it into the frame using one of the wooden rammers. You want a pretty tight pack. Do this in layers rather than dumping a bunch of sand in and trying to pack it all at once. <br />
# Once the sand is well packed and level with the top of the frame, carefully turn it upside down. You should see the bottom of your plastic mold.<br />
# Very gently tap the mold to help it release.<br />
# In our pre-printed molds, there's a tiny hole in the back. You can gently put a screw into this and tighten just enough to help you lift the plastic out of the sand. If you're making your own molds, devise a way to aid removal.<br />
# Now look at the impression the mold has left in the sand. If it doesn't look right, you can redo the process until you get a "clean" impression to pour the metal into.<br />
# Place your frame on the metal sheet you've set out for that purpose (see Setup above).<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Pictures showing different steps/states in this process appear below.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Plastic mold inside wooden frame.jpg|Plastic mold inside wooden frame<br />
File:Powdered Mold.jpg|A mold with a light dusting of talcum powder, sitting inside a frame<br />
Ramming sand into the frame.jpg|Ramming sand into the frame<br />
A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside.jpg|A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside<br />
The mold completed.jpg|The mold completed<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Skimming Dross ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Pouring the Metal ==<br />
So, you've got your environment set up and your casting frame ready to pour metal in. <br />
<br />
Look again at the suggested setup above. Think about how you'll open the furnace, get the tongs to hand, transfer to the ring shank, pour, and reverse the steps. Think about how you'll maneuver safely without damaging yourself, others, and our equipment and shop.<br />
<br />
The steps are as follows:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Turn the psi on the propane tank down to 5 while pouring.<br />
# Open the furnace by stepping on the pedal and using the handle to swing the top out to the opposite side of the furnace from where you'll be pouring.<br />
# Use the tongs to carefully lift the crucible from the furnace. Make sure you clear the rim of the furnace, and watch out for tripping hazards.<br />
# If you follow the setup suggested above, you'll have the ring and the handle of the ring shank both sitting on pavers. Use the tongs to place the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, sitting on the paver. Make sure to orient the pouring lip of the crucible so that it is toward the mold(s) you'll be pouring into.<br />
# Move the tongs out of your way.<br />
# Use the ring shank to pick up the crucible, making sure the crucible is held securely. <br />
# Pour gently into the frame. A controlled pour will reduce the odds of your splashing molten metal and will conserve metal.<br />
# Use the ring shank to place the crucible back down on the paver.<br />
# Use the tongs to lift the crucible and place it back into the furnace, making sure that the crucible sits securely on the pucks in the bottom.<br />
# Close the lid of the furnace.<br />
# Turn the psi back up to 10 if you plan to continue pouring for a while yet.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Here's a video of this in action:<br />
<br />
TODO: FIGURE OUT WHERE TO UPLOAD VIDEO TO AND LINK HERE<br />
<br />
== Extracting the Casting ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Shutting Down ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Sourcing Metal ==<br />
Please do not melt aluminum cans in the furnace. <br />
TODO</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Foundry&diff=4374Foundry2024-10-03T02:45:32Z<p>Dllh: /* Pouring the Metal */</p>
<hr />
<div>== '''WORK IN PROGRESS''' == <br />
The Foundry is a tool housed within [[Blacksmithing]] zone and can only be used practically if you have the Blacksmithing auth, which is required to get a key to the blacksmithing building.<br />
<br />
== Safety ==<br />
=== Gear ===<br />
Working in a foundry is very dangerous! We provide safety gear to help reduce the odds of your getting hurt. To use the foundry, you must wear the following:<br />
<br><br />
<br />
* Safety glasses, ideally shaded to protect your eyes<br />
* Closed-toed shoes (steel toes aren't a bad idea)<br />
* Long sleeves and pants in natural fibers (cotton, flannel). We recommend borrowing a welding shirt from Metalworking.<br />
* Ear protection if the noise bothers you<br />
* A face screen to protect your face (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather heat-resistant spats to protect your shins and feet (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather sleeves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather gloves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather apron (provided by KM)<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Everything you do in the foundry must be very intentional. Place each step carefully, double check that no one is too close for your personal comfort (and their safety), move methodically and consistently when possible.<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
Any time you heat up metal, you run the risk of releasing toxic fumes. It's important to know what metal you're using and what the signs suggest that you have inhaled the fumes. We pour outside the building in part to give fumes more room to disperse, but you should look out for smoke coming from the furnace and adjust your position or ventilation as needed. If you have one, you might like to wear a respirator. Below you'll find a few common types of fumes to beware of.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Zinc fumes ====<br />
* Commonly released when casting metals like '''brass'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can cause flu-like symptoms (known as metal fume fever), nausea, headaches, and muscle aches.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to chronic respiratory issues, such as asthma or other lung damage.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Carbon monoxide ====<br />
* Released during incomplete combustion of fuels.<br />
* Exposure can lead to dizziness, confusion, or even unconsciousness in severe cases.<br />
* Long-term exposure can cause '''heart and brain damage''' due to oxygen deprivation.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Sulfur dioxide ====<br />
* Released during the casting of metals like '''iron and copper'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can irritate the respiratory system, causing coughing, shortness of breath, and a burning sensation.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to '''chronic lung disease''' or aggravation of pre-existing conditions like asthma.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Hydrogen chloride ====<br />
* Released when metals like zinc or copper are cast.<br />
* Causes severe irritation to the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract.<br />
* Long-term exposure can result in chronic bronchitis or '''permanent lung damage'''.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Tools ==<br />
* The '''furnace''' is the cylinder that contains the fire that melts your metal.<br />
* The '''propane tank''' provides fuel for the fire.<br />
* The '''crucible''' is the special container that will hold your metal while it melts. You'll pour from the crucible into your mold.<br />
* The '''tongs''' are specially made to fit the crucible and should be used for lowering the crucible into the furnace and it out.<br />
* The '''ring shank''' is the tool you'll use to pour the metal from the crucible. When pouring, you use the tongs to set the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, and then you pour from the ring shank.<br />
* The '''cope''' and '''drags'''... (I DON'T REMEMBER. LET'S UPDATE.)<br />
* The '''ingots''' are the metal you'll put into the crucible to melt. When you finish pouring into your molds, pour your leftover metal into an ingot tray to harden into useful shapes for inserting back into the crucible for a future pour.<br />
* The '''sand table''' lives in the corner (near left as you enter the front doors) and is useful for making your molds and extracting your finished product from the molds. A bin underneath collects any sand you push through the holes on the surface so that it can be re-used later.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Environment Setup ==<br />
Wheel the furnace out onto a flat surface just outside the front door of the blacksmith shop. There should be pavers set out that you can park the furnace on. Block the wheels with something that will prevent the furnace from moving (one day, we may add chucks or locking wheels). <br />
<br />
There should be a propane tank near the furnace, but note that the propane tank should stay inside the shop door while the furnace should be outside the door. Think about how you'll move around the furnace with the tongs and molten metal. Here's a layout that worked well in testing:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Foundry Setup.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Note that the furnace is sitting on pavers on the gravel. The propane tank is inside the shop. Between the propane and the furnace are the tongs for lifting the crucible out of the furnace. Lying on pavers in the middle of the photo are the pouring tongs. At right is a sheet of metal that you'll set your molds on to pour into. In the upper right corner of the metal is a mold to pour any leftover metal into so that we can melt it down again for a future pour. This arrangement lets you maneuver from furnace to tongs to pouring area with a reduced likelihood of getting tripped up.<br />
<br />
Now that you've got your layout set up, we get the furnace ready for melting!<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Make sure that both doors on the blacksmith shop are open.<br />
# Ensure that the furnace is on the outside on the pavers, and the gas is on the inside of the door, as mentioned and depicted above. This is a safety issue.<br />
# Connect the furnace gas supply to the propane tank. Remember that the threads are reversed (so twist backwards from what you normally would). Ensure that the valve is tightened properly, passed visual inspection, and appears undamaged. If uncertain, '''please ask'''. Folks familiar with the foundry chat in our Foundry and Blacksmithing channels on Mattermost.<br />
# Open the furnace (TODO: VIDEO LINK HERE) and load the crucible (see photo below). Your metal should be in the crucible. Use the correct crucible for the metal being used.<br />
# Turn on the propane tank to 10 psi.<br />
# Light the furnace using the hand-held propane torch.<br />
# Close the furnace lid.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
It'll vary by metal, but you should plan for a half hour or so to get the metal melting (this is the case for aluminum, at least). While the metal is heating, you can prepare your molds.<br />
<br />
To open the lid on the furnace, grab the handle at the top and push your foot down on the pedal at the base of the furnace. Then gently pivot the top around to the side of the furnace. Remember to block the wheels first so the furnace doesn't roll. You should find three little pucks in the bottom as pictured below. Space them out equally in the center of the furnace in a position that will allow the base of the crucible to rest securely on the pucks without tipping. '''Before putting the crucible into the furnace''', put a sheet of cardboard or paper towel on top of the pucks. This provides a layer of carbon between the crucible and pucks that will reduce the likelihood of the pucks sticking to the bottom of the crucible.<br />
<br />
Use the pick-up tongs to lift the crucible carefully and lower it in to balance on the pucks.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Foundry furnace seen from above.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Preparing Molds ==<br />
On the sand table, you'll find some square wooden molds. While there are various ways to make molds in sand, the method we use for the authorization uses a plastic mold with sand packed tightly around it. To get your sand casting mold ready, follow these steps:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Near the sand table, you'll find a bin of our sand, which is a mixture (not straight sand) designed for casting. Dig through this and stir it up a bit so that you can get some handfuls of sand that will pack into a nugget that doesn't readily crumble. There's not an exact way to determine that you've got the right consistency. In the auth class, you'll get to try this out to get an idea. So, step one s to have your sand ready to go.<br />
# Select one of our pre-printed plastic molds or create a design of your own.<br />
# Place this into one of the wooden frames with the design facing upward toward you on the table.<br />
# Dust it with a bit of talcum powder, which helps the cooled metal release from the mold later. You can put a little powder on top of the mold and then brush it around a little. You want a very light dusting.<br />
# Put some sand into the mold and pack it into the frame using one of the wooden rammers. You want a pretty tight pack. Do this in layers rather than dumping a bunch of sand in and trying to pack it all at once. <br />
# Once the sand is well packed and level with the top of the frame, carefully turn it upside down. You should see the bottom of your plastic mold.<br />
# Very gently tap the mold to help it release.<br />
# In our pre-printed molds, there's a tiny hole in the back. You can gently put a screw into this and tighten just enough to help you lift the plastic out of the sand. If you're making your own molds, devise a way to aid removal.<br />
# Now look at the impression the mold has left in the sand. If it doesn't look right, you can redo the process until you get a "clean" impression to pour the metal into.<br />
# Place your frame on the metal sheet you've set out for that purpose (see Setup above).<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Pictures showing different steps/states in this process appear below.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Plastic mold inside wooden frame.jpg|Plastic mold inside wooden frame<br />
File:Powdered Mold.jpg|A mold with a light dusting of talcum powder, sitting inside a frame<br />
Ramming sand into the frame.jpg|Ramming sand into the frame<br />
A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside.jpg|A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside<br />
The mold completed.jpg|The mold completed<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Skimming Dross ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Pouring the Metal ==<br />
So, you've got your environment set up and your casting frame ready to pour metal in. <br />
<br />
Look again at the suggested setup above. Think about how you'll open the furnace, get the tongs to hand, transfer to the ring shank, pour, and reverse the steps. Think about how you'll maneuver safely without damaging yourself, others, and our equipment and shop.<br />
<br />
The steps are as follows:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Turn the psi on the propane tank down to 5 while pouring.<br />
# Open the furnace by stepping on the pedal and using the handle to swing the top out to the opposite side of the furnace from where you'll be pouring.<br />
# Use the tongs to carefully lift the crucible from the furnace. Make sure you clear the rim of the furnace, and watch out for tripping hazards.<br />
# If you follow the setup suggested above, you'll have the ring and the handle of the ring shank both sitting on pavers. Use the tongs to place the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, sitting on the paver. Make sure to orient the pouring lip of the crucible so that it is toward the mold(s) you'll be pouring into.<br />
# Move the tongs out of your way.<br />
# Use the ring shank to pick up the crucible, making sure the crucible is held securely. <br />
# Pour gently into the frame. A controlled pour will reduce the odds of your splashing molten metal and will conserve metal.<br />
# Use the ring shank to place the crucible back down on the paver.<br />
# Use the tongs to lift the crucible and place it back into the furnace, making sure that the crucible sits securely on the pucks in the bottom.<br />
# Close the lid of the furnace.<br />
# Turn the psi back up to 10 if you plan to continue pouring for a while yet.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Here's a video of this in action:<br />
<br />
TODO: FIGURE OUT WHERE TO UPLOAD VIDEO TO AND LINK HERE<br />
<br />
== Extracting the Casting ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Shutting Down ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Sourcing Metal ==<br />
Please do not melt aluminum cans in the furnace. <br />
TODO</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Foundry&diff=4373Foundry2024-10-03T02:45:05Z<p>Dllh: /* Environment Setup */</p>
<hr />
<div>== '''WORK IN PROGRESS''' == <br />
The Foundry is a tool housed within [[Blacksmithing]] zone and can only be used practically if you have the Blacksmithing auth, which is required to get a key to the blacksmithing building.<br />
<br />
== Safety ==<br />
=== Gear ===<br />
Working in a foundry is very dangerous! We provide safety gear to help reduce the odds of your getting hurt. To use the foundry, you must wear the following:<br />
<br><br />
<br />
* Safety glasses, ideally shaded to protect your eyes<br />
* Closed-toed shoes (steel toes aren't a bad idea)<br />
* Long sleeves and pants in natural fibers (cotton, flannel). We recommend borrowing a welding shirt from Metalworking.<br />
* Ear protection if the noise bothers you<br />
* A face screen to protect your face (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather heat-resistant spats to protect your shins and feet (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather sleeves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather gloves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather apron (provided by KM)<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Everything you do in the foundry must be very intentional. Place each step carefully, double check that no one is too close for your personal comfort (and their safety), move methodically and consistently when possible.<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
Any time you heat up metal, you run the risk of releasing toxic fumes. It's important to know what metal you're using and what the signs suggest that you have inhaled the fumes. We pour outside the building in part to give fumes more room to disperse, but you should look out for smoke coming from the furnace and adjust your position or ventilation as needed. If you have one, you might like to wear a respirator. Below you'll find a few common types of fumes to beware of.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Zinc fumes ====<br />
* Commonly released when casting metals like '''brass'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can cause flu-like symptoms (known as metal fume fever), nausea, headaches, and muscle aches.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to chronic respiratory issues, such as asthma or other lung damage.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Carbon monoxide ====<br />
* Released during incomplete combustion of fuels.<br />
* Exposure can lead to dizziness, confusion, or even unconsciousness in severe cases.<br />
* Long-term exposure can cause '''heart and brain damage''' due to oxygen deprivation.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Sulfur dioxide ====<br />
* Released during the casting of metals like '''iron and copper'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can irritate the respiratory system, causing coughing, shortness of breath, and a burning sensation.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to '''chronic lung disease''' or aggravation of pre-existing conditions like asthma.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Hydrogen chloride ====<br />
* Released when metals like zinc or copper are cast.<br />
* Causes severe irritation to the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract.<br />
* Long-term exposure can result in chronic bronchitis or '''permanent lung damage'''.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Tools ==<br />
* The '''furnace''' is the cylinder that contains the fire that melts your metal.<br />
* The '''propane tank''' provides fuel for the fire.<br />
* The '''crucible''' is the special container that will hold your metal while it melts. You'll pour from the crucible into your mold.<br />
* The '''tongs''' are specially made to fit the crucible and should be used for lowering the crucible into the furnace and it out.<br />
* The '''ring shank''' is the tool you'll use to pour the metal from the crucible. When pouring, you use the tongs to set the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, and then you pour from the ring shank.<br />
* The '''cope''' and '''drags'''... (I DON'T REMEMBER. LET'S UPDATE.)<br />
* The '''ingots''' are the metal you'll put into the crucible to melt. When you finish pouring into your molds, pour your leftover metal into an ingot tray to harden into useful shapes for inserting back into the crucible for a future pour.<br />
* The '''sand table''' lives in the corner (near left as you enter the front doors) and is useful for making your molds and extracting your finished product from the molds. A bin underneath collects any sand you push through the holes on the surface so that it can be re-used later.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Environment Setup ==<br />
Wheel the furnace out onto a flat surface just outside the front door of the blacksmith shop. There should be pavers set out that you can park the furnace on. Block the wheels with something that will prevent the furnace from moving (one day, we may add chucks or locking wheels). <br />
<br />
There should be a propane tank near the furnace, but note that the propane tank should stay inside the shop door while the furnace should be outside the door. Think about how you'll move around the furnace with the tongs and molten metal. Here's a layout that worked well in testing:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Foundry Setup.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Note that the furnace is sitting on pavers on the gravel. The propane tank is inside the shop. Between the propane and the furnace are the tongs for lifting the crucible out of the furnace. Lying on pavers in the middle of the photo are the pouring tongs. At right is a sheet of metal that you'll set your molds on to pour into. In the upper right corner of the metal is a mold to pour any leftover metal into so that we can melt it down again for a future pour. This arrangement lets you maneuver from furnace to tongs to pouring area with a reduced likelihood of getting tripped up.<br />
<br />
Now that you've got your layout set up, we get the furnace ready for melting!<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Make sure that both doors on the blacksmith shop are open.<br />
# Ensure that the furnace is on the outside on the pavers, and the gas is on the inside of the door, as mentioned and depicted above. This is a safety issue.<br />
# Connect the furnace gas supply to the propane tank. Remember that the threads are reversed (so twist backwards from what you normally would). Ensure that the valve is tightened properly, passed visual inspection, and appears undamaged. If uncertain, '''please ask'''. Folks familiar with the foundry chat in our Foundry and Blacksmithing channels on Mattermost.<br />
# Open the furnace (TODO: VIDEO LINK HERE) and load the crucible (see photo below). Your metal should be in the crucible. Use the correct crucible for the metal being used.<br />
# Turn on the propane tank to 10 psi.<br />
# Light the furnace using the hand-held propane torch.<br />
# Close the furnace lid.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
It'll vary by metal, but you should plan for a half hour or so to get the metal melting (this is the case for aluminum, at least). While the metal is heating, you can prepare your molds.<br />
<br />
To open the lid on the furnace, grab the handle at the top and push your foot down on the pedal at the base of the furnace. Then gently pivot the top around to the side of the furnace. Remember to block the wheels first so the furnace doesn't roll. You should find three little pucks in the bottom as pictured below. Space them out equally in the center of the furnace in a position that will allow the base of the crucible to rest securely on the pucks without tipping. '''Before putting the crucible into the furnace''', put a sheet of cardboard or paper towel on top of the pucks. This provides a layer of carbon between the crucible and pucks that will reduce the likelihood of the pucks sticking to the bottom of the crucible.<br />
<br />
Use the pick-up tongs to lift the crucible carefully and lower it in to balance on the pucks.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Foundry furnace seen from above.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Preparing Molds ==<br />
On the sand table, you'll find some square wooden molds. While there are various ways to make molds in sand, the method we use for the authorization uses a plastic mold with sand packed tightly around it. To get your sand casting mold ready, follow these steps:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Near the sand table, you'll find a bin of our sand, which is a mixture (not straight sand) designed for casting. Dig through this and stir it up a bit so that you can get some handfuls of sand that will pack into a nugget that doesn't readily crumble. There's not an exact way to determine that you've got the right consistency. In the auth class, you'll get to try this out to get an idea. So, step one s to have your sand ready to go.<br />
# Select one of our pre-printed plastic molds or create a design of your own.<br />
# Place this into one of the wooden frames with the design facing upward toward you on the table.<br />
# Dust it with a bit of talcum powder, which helps the cooled metal release from the mold later. You can put a little powder on top of the mold and then brush it around a little. You want a very light dusting.<br />
# Put some sand into the mold and pack it into the frame using one of the wooden rammers. You want a pretty tight pack. Do this in layers rather than dumping a bunch of sand in and trying to pack it all at once. <br />
# Once the sand is well packed and level with the top of the frame, carefully turn it upside down. You should see the bottom of your plastic mold.<br />
# Very gently tap the mold to help it release.<br />
# In our pre-printed molds, there's a tiny hole in the back. You can gently put a screw into this and tighten just enough to help you lift the plastic out of the sand. If you're making your own molds, devise a way to aid removal.<br />
# Now look at the impression the mold has left in the sand. If it doesn't look right, you can redo the process until you get a "clean" impression to pour the metal into.<br />
# Place your frame on the metal sheet you've set out for that purpose (see Setup above).<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Pictures showing different steps/states in this process appear below.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Plastic mold inside wooden frame.jpg|Plastic mold inside wooden frame<br />
File:Powdered Mold.jpg|A mold with a light dusting of talcum powder, sitting inside a frame<br />
Ramming sand into the frame.jpg|Ramming sand into the frame<br />
A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside.jpg|A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside<br />
The mold completed.jpg|The mold completed<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Skimming Dross ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Pouring the Metal ==<br />
So, you've got your environment set up and your casting frame ready to pour metal in. <br />
<br />
Look again at the suggested setup above. Think about how you'll open the furnace, get the tongs to hand, transfer to the ring shank, pour, and reverse the steps. Think about how you'll maneuver safely without damaging yourself, others, and our equipment and shop.<br />
<br />
The steps are as follows:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Turn the psi on the propane tank down to 5 while pouring.<br />
# Open the furnace by stepping on the pedal and using the handle to swing the top out to the opposite side of the furnace from where you'll be pouring.<br />
# Use the tongs to carefully lift the crucible from the furnace. Make sure you clear the rim of the furnace, and watch out for tripping hazards.<br />
# If you follow the setup suggested above, you'll have the ring and the handle of the ring shank both sitting on pavers. Use the tongs to place the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, sitting on the paver. Make sure to orient the pouring lip of the crucible so that it is toward the mold(s) you'll be pouring into.<br />
# Move the tongs out of your way.<br />
# Use the ring shank to pick up the crucible, making sure the crucible is held securely. <br />
# Pour gently into the frame. A controlled pour will reduce the odds of your splashing molten metal and will conserve metal.<br />
# Use the ring shank to place the crucible back down on the paver.<br />
# Use the tongs to lift the crucible and place it back into the furnace, making sure that the crucible sits securely on the pucks in the bottom.<br />
# Close the lid of the furnace.<br />
# Turn the psi back up to 20 if you plan to continue pouring for a while yet.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Here's a video of this in action:<br />
<br />
TODO: FIGURE OUT WHERE TO UPLOAD VIDEO TO AND LINK HERE<br />
<br />
== Extracting the Casting ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Shutting Down ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Sourcing Metal ==<br />
Please do not melt aluminum cans in the furnace. <br />
TODO</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Foundry&diff=4361Foundry2024-09-30T03:13:27Z<p>Dllh: </p>
<hr />
<div>== '''WORK IN PROGRESS''' == <br />
The Foundry is a tool housed within [[Blacksmithing]] zone and can only be used practically if you have the Blacksmithing auth, which is required to get a key to the blacksmithing building.<br />
<br />
== Safety ==<br />
=== Gear ===<br />
Working in a foundry is very dangerous! We provide safety gear to help reduce the odds of your getting hurt. To use the foundry, you must wear the following:<br />
<br><br />
<br />
* Safety glasses, ideally shaded to protect your eyes<br />
* Closed-toed shoes (steel toes aren't a bad idea)<br />
* Long sleeves and pants in natural fibers (cotton, flannel). We recommend borrowing a welding shirt from Metalworking.<br />
* Ear protection if the noise bothers you<br />
* A face screen to protect your face (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather heat-resistant spats to protect your shins and feet (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather sleeves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather gloves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather apron (provided by KM)<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Everything you do in the foundry must be very intentional. Place each step carefully, double check that no one is too close for your personal comfort (and their safety), move methodically and consistently when possible.<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
Any time you heat up metal, you run the risk of releasing toxic fumes. It's important to know what metal you're using and what the signs suggest that you have inhaled the fumes. We pour outside the building in part to give fumes more room to disperse, but you should look out for smoke coming from the furnace and adjust your position or ventilation as needed. If you have one, you might like to wear a respirator. Below you'll find a few common types of fumes to beware of.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Zinc fumes ====<br />
* Commonly released when casting metals like '''brass'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can cause flu-like symptoms (known as metal fume fever), nausea, headaches, and muscle aches.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to chronic respiratory issues, such as asthma or other lung damage.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Carbon monoxide ====<br />
* Released during incomplete combustion of fuels.<br />
* Exposure can lead to dizziness, confusion, or even unconsciousness in severe cases.<br />
* Long-term exposure can cause '''heart and brain damage''' due to oxygen deprivation.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Sulfur dioxide ====<br />
* Released during the casting of metals like '''iron and copper'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can irritate the respiratory system, causing coughing, shortness of breath, and a burning sensation.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to '''chronic lung disease''' or aggravation of pre-existing conditions like asthma.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Hydrogen chloride ====<br />
* Released when metals like zinc or copper are cast.<br />
* Causes severe irritation to the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract.<br />
* Long-term exposure can result in chronic bronchitis or '''permanent lung damage'''.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Tools ==<br />
* The '''furnace''' is the cylinder that contains the fire that melts your metal.<br />
* The '''propane tank''' provides fuel for the fire.<br />
* The '''crucible''' is the special container that will hold your metal while it melts. You'll pour from the crucible into your mold.<br />
* The '''tongs''' are specially made to fit the crucible and should be used for lowering the crucible into the furnace and it out.<br />
* The '''ring shank''' is the tool you'll use to pour the metal from the crucible. When pouring, you use the tongs to set the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, and then you pour from the ring shank.<br />
* The '''cope''' and '''drags'''... (I DON'T REMEMBER. LET'S UPDATE.)<br />
* The '''ingots''' are the metal you'll put into the crucible to melt. When you finish pouring into your molds, pour your leftover metal into an ingot tray to harden into useful shapes for inserting back into the crucible for a future pour.<br />
* The '''sand table''' lives in the corner (near left as you enter the front doors) and is useful for making your molds and extracting your finished product from the molds. A bin underneath collects any sand you push through the holes on the surface so that it can be re-used later.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Environment Setup ==<br />
Wheel the furnace out onto a flat surface just outside the front door of the blacksmith shop. There should be pavers set out that you can park the furnace on. Block the wheels with something that will prevent the furnace from moving (one day, we may add chucks or locking wheels). <br />
<br />
There should be a propane tank near the furnace, but note that the propane tank should stay inside the shop door while the furnace should be outside the door. Think about how you'll move around the furnace with the tongs and molten metal. Here's a layout that worked well in testing:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Foundry Setup.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Note that the furnace is sitting on pavers on the gravel. The propane tank is inside the shop. Between the propane and the furnace are the tongs for lifting the crucible out of the furnace. Lying on pavers in the middle of the photo are the pouring tongs. At right is a sheet of metal that you'll set your molds on to pour into. In the upper right corner of the metal is a mold to pour any leftover metal into so that we can melt it down again for a future pour. This arrangement lets you maneuver from furnace to tongs to pouring area with a reduced likelihood of getting tripped up.<br />
<br />
Now that you've got your layout set up, we get the furnace ready for melting!<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Make sure that both doors on the blacksmith shop are open.<br />
# Ensure that the furnace is on the outside on the pavers, and the gas is on the inside of the door, as mentioned and depicted above. This is a safety issue.<br />
# Connect the furnace gas supply to the propane tank. Remember that the threads are reversed (so twist backwards from what you normally would). Ensure that the valve is tightened properly, passed visual inspection, and appears undamaged. If uncertain, '''please ask'''. Folks familiar with the foundry chat in our Foundry and Blacksmithing channels on Mattermost.<br />
# Open the furnace (TODO: VIDEO LINK HERE) and load the crucible (see photo below). Your metal should be in the crucible. Use the correct crucible for the metal being used.<br />
# Turn on the propane tank to 20 psi.<br />
# Light the furnace using the hand-held propane torch.<br />
# Close the furnace lid.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
It'll vary by metal, but you should plan for a half hour or so to get the metal melting (this is the case for aluminum, at least). While the metal is heating, you can prepare your molds.<br />
<br />
To open the lid on the furnace, grab the handle at the top and push your foot down on the pedal at the base of the furnace. Then gently pivot the top around to the side of the furnace. Remember to block the wheels first so the furnace doesn't roll. You should find three little pucks in the bottom as pictured below. Space them out equally in the center of the furnace in a position that will allow the base of the crucible to rest securely on the pucks without tipping. '''Before putting the crucible into the furnace''', put a sheet of cardboard or paper towel on top of the pucks. This provides a layer of carbon between the crucible and pucks that will reduce the likelihood of the pucks sticking to the bottom of the crucible.<br />
<br />
Use the pick-up tongs to lift the crucible carefully and lower it in to balance on the pucks.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Foundry furnace seen from above.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Preparing Molds ==<br />
On the sand table, you'll find some square wooden molds. While there are various ways to make molds in sand, the method we use for the authorization uses a plastic mold with sand packed tightly around it. To get your sand casting mold ready, follow these steps:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Near the sand table, you'll find a bin of our sand, which is a mixture (not straight sand) designed for casting. Dig through this and stir it up a bit so that you can get some handfuls of sand that will pack into a nugget that doesn't readily crumble. There's not an exact way to determine that you've got the right consistency. In the auth class, you'll get to try this out to get an idea. So, step one s to have your sand ready to go.<br />
# Select one of our pre-printed plastic molds or create a design of your own.<br />
# Place this into one of the wooden frames with the design facing upward toward you on the table.<br />
# Dust it with a bit of talcum powder, which helps the cooled metal release from the mold later. You can put a little powder on top of the mold and then brush it around a little. You want a very light dusting.<br />
# Put some sand into the mold and pack it into the frame using one of the wooden rammers. You want a pretty tight pack. Do this in layers rather than dumping a bunch of sand in and trying to pack it all at once. <br />
# Once the sand is well packed and level with the top of the frame, carefully turn it upside down. You should see the bottom of your plastic mold.<br />
# Very gently tap the mold to help it release.<br />
# In our pre-printed molds, there's a tiny hole in the back. You can gently put a screw into this and tighten just enough to help you lift the plastic out of the sand. If you're making your own molds, devise a way to aid removal.<br />
# Now look at the impression the mold has left in the sand. If it doesn't look right, you can redo the process until you get a "clean" impression to pour the metal into.<br />
# Place your frame on the metal sheet you've set out for that purpose (see Setup above).<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Pictures showing different steps/states in this process appear below.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Plastic mold inside wooden frame.jpg|Plastic mold inside wooden frame<br />
File:Powdered Mold.jpg|A mold with a light dusting of talcum powder, sitting inside a frame<br />
Ramming sand into the frame.jpg|Ramming sand into the frame<br />
A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside.jpg|A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside<br />
The mold completed.jpg|The mold completed<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Skimming Dross ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Pouring the Metal ==<br />
So, you've got your environment set up and your casting frame ready to pour metal in. <br />
<br />
Look again at the suggested setup above. Think about how you'll open the furnace, get the tongs to hand, transfer to the ring shank, pour, and reverse the steps. Think about how you'll maneuver safely without damaging yourself, others, and our equipment and shop.<br />
<br />
The steps are as follows:<br />
<br />
<br><br />
# Turn the psi on the propane tank down to 5 while pouring.<br />
# Open the furnace by stepping on the pedal and using the handle to swing the top out to the opposite side of the furnace from where you'll be pouring.<br />
# Use the tongs to carefully lift the crucible from the furnace. Make sure you clear the rim of the furnace, and watch out for tripping hazards.<br />
# If you follow the setup suggested above, you'll have the ring and the handle of the ring shank both sitting on pavers. Use the tongs to place the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, sitting on the paver. Make sure to orient the pouring lip of the crucible so that it is toward the mold(s) you'll be pouring into.<br />
# Move the tongs out of your way.<br />
# Use the ring shank to pick up the crucible, making sure the crucible is held securely. <br />
# Pour gently into the frame. A controlled pour will reduce the odds of your splashing molten metal and will conserve metal.<br />
# Use the ring shank to place the crucible back down on the paver.<br />
# Use the tongs to lift the crucible and place it back into the furnace, making sure that the crucible sits securely on the pucks in the bottom.<br />
# Close the lid of the furnace.<br />
# Turn the psi back up to 20 if you plan to continue pouring for a while yet.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Here's a video of this in action:<br />
<br />
TODO: FIGURE OUT WHERE TO UPLOAD VIDEO TO AND LINK HERE<br />
<br />
== Extracting the Casting ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Shutting Down ==<br />
TODO<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Sourcing Metal ==<br />
Please do not melt aluminum cans in the furnace. <br />
TODO</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Foundry&diff=4360Foundry2024-09-30T03:05:33Z<p>Dllh: </p>
<hr />
<div>== '''WORK IN PROGRESS''' == <br />
The Foundry is a tool housed within [[Blacksmithing]] zone and can only be used practically if you have the Blacksmithing auth, which is required to get a key to the blacksmithing building.<br />
<br />
== Safety ==<br />
=== Gear ===<br />
Working in a foundry is very dangerous! We provide safety gear to help reduce the odds of your getting hurt. To use the foundry, you must wear the following:<br />
<br />
* Safety glasses, ideally shaded to protect your eyes<br />
* Closed-toed shoes (steel toes aren't a bad idea)<br />
* Long sleeves and pants in natural fibers (cotton, flannel). We recommend borrowing a welding shirt from Metalworking.<br />
* Ear protection if the noise bothers you<br />
* A face screen to protect your face (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather heat-resistant spats to protect your shins and feet (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather sleeves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather gloves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather apron (provided by KM)<br />
<br />
<br />
Everything you do in the foundry must be very intentional. Place each step carefully, double check that no one is too close for your personal comfort (and their safety), move methodically and consistently when possible.<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
Any time you heat up metal, you run the risk of releasing toxic fumes. It's important to know what metal you're using and what the signs suggest that you have inhaled the fumes. We pour outside the building in part to give fumes more room to disperse, but you should look out for smoke coming from the furnace and adjust your position or ventilation as needed. If you have one, you might like to wear a respirator. Below you'll find a few common types of fumes to beware of.<br />
<br />
==== Zinc fumes ====<br />
* Commonly released when casting metals like '''brass'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can cause flu-like symptoms (known as metal fume fever), nausea, headaches, and muscle aches.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to chronic respiratory issues, such as asthma or other lung damage.<br />
<br />
==== Carbon monoxide ====<br />
* Released during incomplete combustion of fuels.<br />
* Exposure can lead to dizziness, confusion, or even unconsciousness in severe cases.<br />
* Long-term exposure can cause '''heart and brain damage''' due to oxygen deprivation.<br />
<br />
==== Sulfur dioxide ====<br />
* Released during the casting of metals like '''iron and copper'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can irritate the respiratory system, causing coughing, shortness of breath, and a burning sensation.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to '''chronic lung disease''' or aggravation of pre-existing conditions like asthma.<br />
<br />
==== Hydrogen chloride ====<br />
* Released when metals like zinc or copper are cast.<br />
* Causes severe irritation to the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract.<br />
* Long-term exposure can result in chronic bronchitis or '''permanent lung damage'''.<br />
<br />
== Tools ==<br />
* The '''furnace''' is the cylinder that contains the fire that melts your metal.<br />
* The '''propane tank''' provides fuel for the fire.<br />
* The '''crucible''' is the special container that will hold your metal while it melts. You'll pour from the crucible into your mold.<br />
* The '''tongs''' are specially made to fit the crucible and should be used for lowering the crucible into the furnace and it out.<br />
* The '''ring shank''' is the tool you'll use to pour the metal from the crucible. When pouring, you use the tongs to set the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, and then you pour from the ring shank.<br />
* The '''cope''' and '''drags'''... (I DON'T REMEMBER. LET'S UPDATE.)<br />
* The '''ingots''' are the metal you'll put into the crucible to melt. When you finish pouring into your molds, pour your leftover metal into an ingot tray to harden into useful shapes for inserting back into the crucible for a future pour.<br />
* The '''sand table''' lives in the corner (near left as you enter the front doors) and is useful for making your molds and extracting your finished product from the molds. A bin underneath collects any sand you push through the holes on the surface so that it can be re-used later.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Setup ==<br />
Wheel the furnace out onto a flat surface just outside the front door of the blacksmith shop. There should be pavers set out that you can park the furnace on. Block the wheels with something that will prevent the furnace from moving (one day, we may add chucks or locking wheels). <br />
<br />
There should be a propane tank near the furnace, but note that the propane tank should stay inside the shop door while the furnace should be outside the door. Think about how you'll move around the furnace with the tongs and molten metal. Here's a layout that worked well in testing:<br />
<br />
[[File:Foundry Setup.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Note that the furnace is sitting on pavers on the gravel. The propane tank is inside the shop. Between the propane and the furnace are the tongs for lifting the crucible out of the furnace. Lying on pavers in the middle of the photo are the pouring tongs. At right is a sheet of metal that you'll set your molds on to pour into. In the upper right corner of the metal is a mold to pour any leftover metal into so that we can melt it down again for a future pour. This arrangement lets you maneuver from furnace to tongs to pouring area with a reduced likelihood of getting tripped up.<br />
<br />
Now that you've got your layout set up, we get the furnace ready for melting!<br />
<br />
# Make sure that both doors on the blacksmith shop are open.<br />
# Ensure that the furnace is on the outside on the pavers, and the gas is on the inside of the door, as mentioned and depicted above. This is a safety issue.<br />
# Connect the furnace gas supply to the propane tank. Remember that the threads are reversed (so twist backwards from what you normally would). Ensure that the valve is tightened properly, passed visual inspection, and appears undamaged. If uncertain, '''please ask'''. Folks familiar with the foundry chat in our Foundry and Blacksmithing channels on Mattermost.<br />
# Open the furnace (TODO: VIDEO LINK HERE) and load the crucible (see photo below). Your metal should be in the crucible. Use the correct crucible for the metal being used.<br />
# Turn on the propane tank to 20 psi.<br />
# Light the furnace using the hand-held propane torch.<br />
# Close the furnace lid.<br />
<br />
It'll vary by metal, but you should plan for a half hour or so to get the metal melting (this is the case for aluminum, at least). While the metal is heating, you can prepare your molds.<br />
<br />
To open the lid on the furnace, grab the handle at the top and push your foot down on the pedal at the base of the furnace. Then gently pivot the top around to the side of the furnace. Remember to block the wheels first so the furnace doesn't roll. You should find three little pucks in the bottom as pictured below. Space them out equally in the center of the furnace in a position that will allow the base of the crucible to rest securely on the pucks without tipping. '''Before putting the crucible into the furnace''', put a sheet of cardboard or paper towel on top of the pucks. This provides a layer of carbon between the crucible and pucks that will reduce the likelihood of the pucks sticking to the bottom of the crucible.<br />
<br />
Use the pick-up tongs to lift the crucible carefully and lower it in to balance on the pucks.<br />
<br />
[[File:Foundry furnace seen from above.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Preparing Molds ==<br />
On the sand table, you'll find some square wooden molds. While there are various ways to make molds in sand, the method we use for the authorization uses a plastic mold with sand packed tightly around it. To get your sand casting mold ready, follow these steps:<br />
<br />
# Near the sand table, you'll find a bin of our sand, which is a mixture (not straight sand) designed for casting. Dig through this and stir it up a bit so that you can get some handfuls of sand that will pack into a nugget that doesn't readily crumble. There's not an exact way to determine that you've got the right consistency. In the auth class, you'll get to try this out to get an idea. So, step one s to have your sand ready to go.<br />
# Select one of our pre-printed plastic molds or create a design of your own.<br />
# Place this into one of the wooden frames with the design facing upward toward you on the table.<br />
# Dust it with a bit of talcum powder, which helps the cooled metal release from the mold later. You can put a little powder on top of the mold and then brush it around a little. You want a very light dusting.<br />
# Put some sand into the mold and pack it into the frame using one of the wooden rammers. You want a pretty tight pack. Do this in layers rather than dumping a bunch of sand in and trying to pack it all at once. <br />
# Once the sand is well packed and level with the top of the frame, carefully turn it upside down. You should see the bottom of your plastic mold.<br />
# Very gently tap the mold to help it release.<br />
# In our pre-printed molds, there's a tiny hole in the back. You can gently put a screw into this and tighten just enough to help you lift the plastic out of the sand. If you're making your own molds, devise a way to aid removal.<br />
# Now look at the impression the mold has left in the sand. If it doesn't look right, you can redo the process until you get a "clean" impression to pour the metal into.<br />
# Place your frame on the metal sheet you've set out for that purpose (see Setup above).<br />
<br />
Pictures showing different steps/states in this process appear below.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Plastic mold inside wooden frame.jpg|Plastic mold inside wooden frame<br />
File:Powdered Mold.jpg|A mold with a light dusting of talcum powder, sitting inside a frame<br />
Ramming sand into the frame.jpg|Ramming sand into the frame<br />
A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside.jpg|A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside<br />
The mold completed.jpg|The mold completed<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Pouring the Metal ==<br />
So, you've got your environment set up and your casting frame ready to pour metal in. <br />
<br />
Look again at the suggested setup above. Think about how you'll open the furnace, get the tongs to hand, transfer to the ring shank, pour, and reverse the steps. Think about how you'll maneuver safely without damaging yourself, others, and our equipment and shop.<br />
<br />
The steps are as follows:<br />
<br />
# Open the furnace by stepping on the pedal and using the handle to swing the top out to the opposite side of the furnace from where you'll be pouring.<br />
# Use the tongs to carefully lift the crucible from the furnace. Make sure you clear the rim of the furnace, and watch out for tripping hazards.<br />
# If you follow the setup suggested above, you'll have the ring and the handle of the ring shank both sitting on pavers. Use the tongs to place the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, sitting on the paver. Make sure to orient the pouring lip of the crucible so that it is toward the mold(s) you'll be pouring into.<br />
# Move the tongs out of your way.<br />
# Use the ring shank to pick up the crucible, making sure the crucible is held securely. <br />
# Pour gently into the frame. A controlled pour will reduce the odds of your splashing molten metal and will conserve metal.<br />
# Use the ring shank to place the crucible back down on the paver.<br />
# Use the tongs to lift the crucible and place it back into the furnace, making sure that the crucible sits securely on the pucks in the bottom.<br />
# Close the lid of the furnace.<br />
<br />
Here's a video of this in action:<br />
<br />
TODO: FIGURE OUT WHERE TO UPLOAD VIDEO TO AND LINK HERE<br />
<br />
== Finding Metal ==<br />
Please do not melt aluminum cans in the furnace. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Other Notes ==<br />
Please do not melt aluminum cans.</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=File:The_mold_completed.jpg&diff=4359File:The mold completed.jpg2024-09-30T03:03:59Z<p>Dllh: </p>
<hr />
<div>The mold completed</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=File:A_sand-filled_frame_with_mold_pressing_up_into_underside.jpg&diff=4357File:A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside.jpg2024-09-30T03:02:28Z<p>Dllh: </p>
<hr />
<div>A sand-filled frame with mold pressing up into underside</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=File:Ramming_sand_into_the_frame.jpg&diff=4355File:Ramming sand into the frame.jpg2024-09-30T03:01:01Z<p>Dllh: </p>
<hr />
<div>Ramming sand into the frame</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=File:Powdered_Mold.jpg&diff=4354File:Powdered Mold.jpg2024-09-30T02:58:54Z<p>Dllh: </p>
<hr />
<div>Powdered Mold</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=File:Plastic_mold_inside_wooden_frame.jpg&diff=4353File:Plastic mold inside wooden frame.jpg2024-09-30T02:55:30Z<p>Dllh: </p>
<hr />
<div>Plastic mold inside wooden frame</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Foundry&diff=4352Foundry2024-09-30T02:05:11Z<p>Dllh: </p>
<hr />
<div>== '''WORK IN PROGRESS''' == <br />
The Foundry is a tool housed within [[Blacksmithing]] zone and can only be used practically if you have the Blacksmithing auth, which is required to get a key to the blacksmithing building.<br />
<br />
== Safety ==<br />
=== Gear ===<br />
Working in a foundry is very dangerous! We provide safety gear to help reduce the odds of your getting hurt. To use the foundry, you must wear the following:<br />
<br />
* Safety glasses, ideally shaded to protect your eyes<br />
* Closed-toed shoes (steel toes aren't a bad idea)<br />
* Long sleeves and pants in natural fibers (cotton, flannel). We recommend borrowing a welding shirt from Metalworking.<br />
* Ear protection if the noise bothers you<br />
* A face screen to protect your face (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather heat-resistant spats to protect your shins and feet (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather sleeves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather gloves (provided by KM)<br />
* Leather apron (provided by KM)<br />
<br />
<br />
Everything you do in the foundry must be very intentional. Place each step carefully, double check that no one is too close for your personal comfort (and their safety), move methodically and consistently when possible.<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
Any time you heat up metal, you run the risk of releasing toxic fumes. It's important to know what metal you're using and what the signs suggest that you have inhaled the fumes. We pour outside the building in part to give fumes more room to disperse, but you should look out for smoke coming from the furnace and adjust your position or ventilation as needed. If you have one, you might like to wear a respirator. Below you'll find a few common types of fumes to beware of.<br />
<br />
==== Zinc fumes ====<br />
* Commonly released when casting metals like '''brass'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can cause flu-like symptoms (known as metal fume fever), nausea, headaches, and muscle aches.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to chronic respiratory issues, such as asthma or other lung damage.<br />
<br />
==== Carbon monoxide ====<br />
* Released during incomplete combustion of fuels.<br />
* Exposure can lead to dizziness, confusion, or even unconsciousness in severe cases.<br />
* Long-term exposure can cause '''heart and brain damage''' due to oxygen deprivation.<br />
<br />
==== Sulfur dioxide ====<br />
* Released during the casting of metals like '''iron and copper'''.<br />
* Short-term exposure can irritate the respiratory system, causing coughing, shortness of breath, and a burning sensation.<br />
* Long-term exposure may lead to '''chronic lung disease''' or aggravation of pre-existing conditions like asthma.<br />
<br />
==== Hydrogen chloride ====<br />
* Released when metals like zinc or copper are cast.<br />
* Causes severe irritation to the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract.<br />
* Long-term exposure can result in chronic bronchitis or '''permanent lung damage'''.<br />
<br />
== Tools ==<br />
* The '''furnace''' is the cylinder that contains the fire that melts your metal.<br />
* The '''propane tank''' provides fuel for the fire.<br />
* The '''crucible''' is the special container that will hold your metal while it melts. You'll pour from the crucible into your mold.<br />
* The '''tongs''' are specially made to fit the crucible and should be used for lowering the crucible into the furnace and it out.<br />
* The '''ring shank''' is the tool you'll use to pour the metal from the crucible. When pouring, you use the tongs to set the crucible into the ring of the ring shank, and then you pour from the ring shank.<br />
* The '''cope''' and '''drags'''... (I DON'T REMEMBER. LET'S UPDATE.)<br />
* The '''ingots''' are the metal you'll put into the crucible to melt. When you finish pouring into your molds, pour your leftover metal into an ingot tray to harden into useful shapes for inserting back into the crucible for a future pour.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Setup ==<br />
Wheel the furnace out onto a flat surface just outside the front door of the blacksmith shop. There should be pavers set out that you can park the furnace on. Block the wheels with something that will prevent the furnace from moving (one day, we may add chucks or locking wheels). <br />
<br />
There should be a propane tank near the furnace, but note that the propane tank should stay inside the shop door while the furnace should be outside the door. Think about how you'll move around the furnace with the tongs and molten metal. Here's a layout that worked well in testing:<br />
<br />
[[File:Foundry Setup.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Note that the furnace is sitting on pavers on the gravel. The propane tank is inside the shop. Between the propane and the furnace are the tongs for lifting the crucible out of the furnace. Lying on pavers in the middle of the photo are the pouring tongs. At right is a sheet of metal that you'll set your molds on to pour into. In the upper right corner of the metal is a mold to pour any leftover metal into so that we can melt it down again for a future pour. This arrangement lets you maneuver from furnace to tongs to pouring area with a reduced likelihood of getting tripped up.<br />
<br />
Now that you've got your layout set up, we get the furnace ready for melting!<br />
<br />
# Make sure that both doors on the blacksmith shop are open.<br />
# Ensure that the furnace is on the outside on the pavers, and the gas is on the inside of the door, as mentioned and depicted above. This is a safety issue.<br />
# Connect the furnace gas supply to the propane tank. Remember that the threads are reversed (so twist backwards from what you normally would). Ensure that the valve is tightened properly, passed visual inspection, and appears undamaged. If uncertain, '''please ask'''. Folks familiar with the foundry chat in our Foundry and Blacksmithing channels on Mattermost.<br />
# Open the furnace and load the crucible (see photo below). Your metal should be in the crucible. Use the correct crucible for the metal being used.<br />
# Turn on the propane tank to 20 psi.<br />
# Light the furnace using the hand-held propane torch.<br />
# Close the furnace lid.<br />
<br />
It'll vary by metal, but you should plan for a half hour or so to get the metal melting (this is the case for aluminum, at least). While the metal is heating, you can prepare your molds.<br />
<br />
To open the lid on the furnace, grab the handle at the top and push your foot down on the pedal at the base of the furnace. Then gently pivot the top around to the side of the furnace. Remember to block the wheels first so the furnace doesn't roll. You should find three little pucks in the bottom as pictured below. Space them out equally in the center of the furnace in a position that will allow the base of the crucible to rest securely on the pucks without tipping. '''Before putting the crucible into the furnace''', put a sheet of paper or paper towel on top of the pucks. This provides a layer of carbon between the crucible and pucks that will reduce the likelihood of the pucks sticking to the bottom of the crucible.<br />
<br />
Use the pick-up tongs to lift the crucible carefully and lower it in to balance on the pucks.<br />
<br />
[[File:Foundry furnace seen from above.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Preparing your Molds ==<br />
<br />
== Other Notes ==<br />
Please do not melt aluminum cans.</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=File:Foundry_furnace_seen_from_above.jpg&diff=4351File:Foundry furnace seen from above.jpg2024-09-30T01:50:36Z<p>Dllh: </p>
<hr />
<div>Foundry furnace seen from above</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Foundry&diff=4350Foundry2024-09-30T01:37:12Z<p>Dllh: Created page with "== '''WORK IN PROGRESS''' == The Foundry is a tool housed within Blacksmithing zone and can only be used practically if you have the Blacksmithing auth, which is required to get a key to the blacksmithing building. == Safety == === Gear === Working in a foundry is very dangerous! We provide safety gear to help reduce the odds of your getting hurt. To use the foundry, you must wear the following: *Safety glasses, ideally shaded to protect your eyes *A face screen t..."</p>
<hr />
<div>== '''WORK IN PROGRESS''' == <br />
The Foundry is a tool housed within [[Blacksmithing]] zone and can only be used practically if you have the Blacksmithing auth, which is required to get a key to the blacksmithing building.<br />
<br />
== Safety ==<br />
=== Gear ===<br />
Working in a foundry is very dangerous! We provide safety gear to help reduce the odds of your getting hurt. To use the foundry, you must wear the following:<br />
<br />
*Safety glasses, ideally shaded to protect your eyes<br />
*A face screen to protect your face<br />
*Closed-toed shoes (steel toes aren't a bad idea)<br />
*Long sleeves and pants in natural fibers (cotton, flannel). We recommend borrowing a welding shirt from Metalworking.<br />
*Heat-resistant spats to protect your shins and feet<br />
*Heat-resistant gloves<br />
*Ear protection if the noise bothers you<br />
<br />
Everything you do in the foundry must be very intentional. Place each step carefully, double check that no one is too close for your personal comfort (and their safety), move methodically and consistently when possible.<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
Any time you heat up metal, you run the risk of releasing toxic fumes. It's important to know what metal you're using and what the signs suggest that you have inhaled the fumes. We pour outside the building in part to give fumes more room to disperse, but you should look out for smoke coming from the furnace and adjust your position or ventilation as needed. If you have one, you might like to wear a respirator. Below you'll find a few common types of fumes to beware of.<br />
<br />
==== Zinc fumes ====<br />
*Commonly released when casting metals like '''brass'''.<br />
*Short-term exposure can cause flu-like symptoms (known as metal fume fever), nausea, headaches, and muscle aches.<br />
*Long-term exposure may lead to chronic respiratory issues, such as asthma or other lung damage.<br />
<br />
==== Carbon monoxide ====<br />
*Released during incomplete combustion of fuels.<br />
*Exposure can lead to dizziness, confusion, or even unconsciousness in severe cases.<br />
*Long-term exposure can cause '''heart and brain damage''' due to oxygen deprivation.<br />
<br />
==== Sulfur dioxide ====<br />
*Released during the casting of metals like '''iron and copper'''.<br />
*Short-term exposure can irritate the respiratory system, causing coughing, shortness of breath, and a burning sensation.<br />
*Long-term exposure may lead to '''chronic lung disease''' or aggravation of pre-existing conditions like asthma.<br />
<br />
==== Hydrogen chloride ====<br />
*Released when metals like zinc or copper are cast.<br />
*Causes severe irritation to the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract.<br />
*Long-term exposure can result in chronic bronchitis or '''permanent lung damage'''.<br />
== Setup ==<br />
Wheel the furnace out onto a flat surface just outside the front door of the blacksmith shop. There should be pavers set out that you can park the furnace on. Block the wheels with something that will prevent the furnace from moving (one day, we may add chucks or locking wheels). <br />
<br />
There should be a propane tank near the furnace, but note that the propane tank should stay inside the shop door while the furnace should be outside the door. Think about how you'll move around the furnace with the tongs and molten metal. Here's a layout that worked well in testing:<br />
<br />
[[File:Foundry Setup.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Note that the furnace is sitting on pavers on the gravel. The propane tank is inside the shop. Between the propane and the furnace are the tongs for lifting the crucible out of the furnace. Lying on pavers in the middle of the photo are the pouring tongs. At right is a sheet of metal that you'll set your molds on to pour into. In the upper right corner of the metal is a mold to pour any leftover metal into so that we can melt it down again for a future pour. This arrangement lets you maneuver from furnace to tongs to pouring area with a reduced likelihood of getting tripped up.</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=File:Foundry_Setup.jpg&diff=4349File:Foundry Setup.jpg2024-09-30T01:14:22Z<p>Dllh: Dllh uploaded a new version of File:Foundry Setup.jpg</p>
<hr />
<div>The front door of the blacksmithing area is depicted with the furnace to the left, just outside the shop door, the propane tank just inside the shop door, clear pathways for safe movement with molten metal, pavers for setting the crucible on, and, at right, a sheet of metal to hold molds during pouring.</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=File:Foundry_Setup.jpg&diff=4348File:Foundry Setup.jpg2024-09-30T01:07:41Z<p>Dllh: </p>
<hr />
<div>The front door of the blacksmithing area is depicted with the furnace to the left, just outside the shop door, the propane tank just inside the shop door, clear pathways for safe movement with molten metal, pavers for setting the crucible on, and, at right, a sheet of metal to hold molds during pouring.</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Main_Page&diff=4347Main Page2024-09-30T00:50:07Z<p>Dllh: </p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__<br />
'''Welcome to the Knox Makers Wiki!'''<br />
<br />
''Write Access to this wiki is limited to members.''<br />
<br />
=About Knox Makers=<br />
<br />
Here is a [[Space History| history of Knox Makers ]]<br />
<br />
Link to [[ Tool Docuentation | Tool Documentation and Manual pdfs ]]<br />
<br />
List of tools that need [[ Authorization ]] classes<br />
<br />
==Members==<br />
<br />
[[Membership Rules]] - Here is a place to find the rules that our members are expected to follow.<br />
<br />
[[How to Become a Member]] - An overview of the process.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Functional Areas==<br />
Knox Makers has several distinct areas in our workshop, and each area has an area leader known as a [https://knoxmakers.org/wiki/czar Czar] (or Czarina). The areas and their respective Czars/Czarinas are:<br />
*Hospitality - [https://knoxmakers.org/member/margaret Margaret]<br />
*[[3D Printing]] - [https://knoxmakers.org/member/david.rusbarsky/ Rhubarb]<br />
*Arts & Crafts - [https://knoxmakers.org/member/sean/ Sean]<br />
*[[Electronics]] - [https://knoxmakers.org/member/ray/ Ray]<br />
*[[Fiber Arts]] - [https://knoxmakers.org/member/joslin/ Sue]<br />
*[[Woodworking]] - [https://knoxmakers.org/member/brian-greenh0e/ Brian]<br />
*[[Machining]] - [https://knoxmakers.org/member/billy/ Billy] <br />
*[[Metalworking]] - [https://knoxmakers.org/member/joehall31415/ Joe] <br />
*[[Lasercutting]] - [https://knoxmakers.org/member/jondale Jondale]<br />
*[[Blacksmithing]] - [https://knoxmakers.org/member/andrewm/ Andrew]<br />
*[[Foundry]] (sub-zone of Blacksmithing) - [https://knoxmakers.org/member/andrewm/ Andrew]<br />
*Safety and First Aid - [https://knoxmakers.org/member/tonybaker/ Tony]<br />
*Classroom (including A/V systems, administrative storage and server rack) - [https://knoxmakers.org/board-of-directors/ Board of Directors]<br />
*Rental Bays (including work bays, pallet racks, and long goods storage) - [https://knoxmakers.org/board-of-directors/ Board of Directors]<br />
<br />
==Corporate==<br />
[[Vision]] - Our Vision Statement, Mission Statement, and Core Values<br />
<br />
[[Board of Directors]] - A list of our current directors and their working items.<br />
<br />
[[Bylaws]] - The corporate organization and other major items details are covered here.<br />
<br />
[[Officer Duties]] - A description of duties performed by the board of directors.<br />
<br />
[[Meeting Minutes|Meeting Minutes]] - Minutes from our monthly board meetings<br />
<br />
[[Logo]] - Knox Makers Logo<br />
<br />
[[Knox Makers Privacy Policy]] - Privacy Policy<br />
<br />
[[Media:Ways_to_pay_v2.odt|Ways to pay]] - Payment options</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Authorization&diff=4346Authorization2024-09-30T00:47:52Z<p>Dllh: /* Woodworking */</p>
<hr />
<div>Some of our tools require a safety/authorization course before use. This is required so that everyone who comes to KM has the same level of education on our policies and expectation. <br />
<br />
You can find upcoming classes on our Events calendar - https://knoxmakers.org/events<br />
<br />
or in the Events channel in Mattermost - https://talk.knoxmakers.org/knoxmakers/channels/events<br />
<br />
<br />
==Lasercutting==<br />
*CO2 Laser (Moonraker)<br />
*Fiber Laser (Crossbow)<br />
<br />
==Electronics==<br />
There are no tools that require authorization in the Electronics zone. If you want help getting started on a tool there, feel free to ask!<br />
<br />
==3D Printing==<br />
* Extrusion style printers<br />
* Resin style printers<br />
<br />
==Fiber Arts==<br />
*Embroidery Machine (Beauty)<br />
*Industrial sewing machine (Beast)<br />
*Sublimation printer (Sublime) and heat press<br />
*Leather sewing machine<br />
<br />
Regular sewing machines do not require authorization<br />
<br />
==Arts and Crafts==<br />
*Stained Glass area<br />
<br />
==Woodworking==<br />
*The entire Zone: Woodworking 101<br />
*Large lathe<br />
*CNC Router<br />
<br />
==Machining==<br />
*The entire Zone: Machining 101<br />
*Bridgeport Mill<br />
*Metal Lathe<br />
<br />
==Metalworking==<br />
*The entire Zone: Metalworking 101<br />
*Torch cutting<br />
<br />
==Blacksmithing==<br />
*The entire Zone: Blacksmithing 101<br />
*Power Hammer (Thumper)<br />
*Torch cutting (housed in blacksmithing but managed by Metalworking)<br />
*Foundry</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Authorization&diff=4345Authorization2024-09-30T00:47:13Z<p>Dllh: Adding the foundry to the list of tools requiring auth, as we've just gotten that spun up. Also cross-referencing the torch since it's housed in blacksmithing but requires a Metalworking auth.</p>
<hr />
<div>Some of our tools require a safety/authorization course before use. This is required so that everyone who comes to KM has the same level of education on our policies and expectation. <br />
<br />
You can find upcoming classes on our Events calendar - https://knoxmakers.org/events<br />
<br />
or in the Events channel in Mattermost - https://talk.knoxmakers.org/knoxmakers/channels/events<br />
<br />
<br />
==Lasercutting==<br />
*CO2 Laser (Moonraker)<br />
*Fiber Laser (Crossbow)<br />
<br />
==Electronics==<br />
There are no tools that require authorization in the Electronics zone. If you want help getting started on a tool there, feel free to ask!<br />
<br />
==3D Printing==<br />
* Extrusion style printers<br />
* Resin style printers<br />
<br />
==Fiber Arts==<br />
*Embroidery Machine (Beauty)<br />
*Industrial sewing machine (Beast)<br />
*Sublimation printer (Sublime) and heat press<br />
*Leather sewing machine<br />
<br />
Regular sewing machines do not require authorization<br />
<br />
==Arts and Crafts==<br />
*Stained Glass area<br />
<br />
==Woodworking==<br />
*The entire Zone: Woodworking 101<br />
*Large lathe<br />
<br />
==Machining==<br />
*The entire Zone: Machining 101<br />
*Bridgeport Mill<br />
*Metal Lathe<br />
<br />
==Metalworking==<br />
*The entire Zone: Metalworking 101<br />
*Torch cutting<br />
<br />
==Blacksmithing==<br />
*The entire Zone: Blacksmithing 101<br />
*Power Hammer (Thumper)<br />
*Torch cutting (housed in blacksmithing but managed by Metalworking)<br />
*Foundry</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Blacksmithing&diff=4279Blacksmithing2024-02-11T00:13:32Z<p>Dllh: Updating to use numbered lists for sequential steps.</p>
<hr />
<div>== Safety ==<br />
* Wear safety glasses, long pants, and closed-toed shoes. Avoid synthetic fabrics. Cotton is good. Wear ear plugs if you like (the power hammer in particular is very loud). Aprons and gloves are available if you want them. Beware of the boiling frog situation in which you grow acclimated to holding warm metal and suddenly discover you're holding hot metal that will burn you.<br />
* Orange metal can burn you severely.<br />
* Black/gray metal can burn you worse. Never touch black/gray metal unless you know for certain it isn't hot.<br />
* If you dip a piece of hot metal into the tank and it dries, it's still hot. If it stays wet, it's ok to touch.<br />
* When testing metal for heat with your hand, use your knuckles rather than your fingertips.<br />
* Hot pieces of metal that we're done with go underneath the forge. Always assume that anything under there is hot and treat it accordingly.<br />
* Know what metal you're putting into the forge. We have a lot of mild steel around the shop, which is fine. Heating galvanized metal can release fumes that will kill you. If in doubt, ask for help!<br />
* Never hammer on the anvil face when using a hot cut or similar tool in the hardy. You might hurt yourself or send something flying.<br />
* Make sure there's ventilation. Keep at least the front doors open when forging.<br />
* Know where the fire extinguishers are and how to use them.<br />
* Never forget that everything in the shop is designed to pinch, burn, stab, bruise, asphyxiate, crush, or cut you or others.<br />
* Don't use the power hammer or the torch without taking the relevant auth classes. <br />
<br />
== Authorizations ==<br />
The power hammer requires its own authorization class. The torch does too. Do not use these without being authorized.<br />
<br />
== Basic Tool Use ==<br />
=== The Anvil===<br />
The anvil has several named parts, and different parts can have different parts. The common elements of the shop's anvils are as follows:<br />
* '''Face'''. This is the long horizontal surface that faces the ceiling. It's the primary surface you put metal on to hammer.<br />
* '''Horn'''. Also sometimes called the "beak" or "bick," this is the roughly conical shaped bit sticking off one end of the anvil. It's good for putting curves in metal and drawing out metal. Some anvils have a flat horn on the other end; this horn is not round but tapers down to a blunt point.<br />
* '''Hardy hole'''. This is the square hole in the anvil's face. Tools that can aid with things like cutting, bending, and otherwise shaping metal have stalks that fit into the hardy hole. Never have one of these tools in the hardy hole when not using them. Always remove them before working on the face of the anvil.<br />
* '''Pritchel hole'''. This is a round hole in the face of the anvil. Some anvils have more than one. They're used in the final step of punching holes in metal.<br />
* '''Edge'''. The edges are the long corners of the face of the anvil. If the anvil is situated in front of you long-ways from left to right, the top corner closest to you is the "near" edge and the one farthest from you is the "off" edge. There are some forging operations that work best if you do them on the near edge and others that work best on the far edge. If you move to the other side of the anvil, the near and far edges move along with you -- near is always the one closest.<br />
<br />
The common wisdom is that the ideal height of the face of the anvil is where your knuckles hang by your side if you're making a loose fist. Different people have different preferences. Mostly you want the anvil face to be in a position in which your hammer blows will land perpendicular to the face of the anvil. This will give you the cleanest forging and reduce hammer gouges in the anvil face or your work. Forging on an anvil of the wrong height can lead you to have joint discomfort.<br />
<br />
=== The Hammer ===<br />
Different hammers are for different tasks. Sometimes a lighter hammer will be better than a heavier. Different shapes of hammer face are better for different operations. A hammer that has a flat face and a rounding face or cross peen are good first hammers. <br />
<br />
Hold the hammer with the thumb around the hammer rather than on top. Choke up or don't, as you like. The hammer goes in your dominant hand, tongs or workpiece in your non-dominant.<br />
<br />
Stand close to the anvil when hammering. This can help with accuracy and can also reduce shoulder and elbow strain. When swinging the hammer, try to keep your elbow tucked in close to your body and use efficient hammer strokes. Don't swing wildly or too high, as you might hurt somebody, ruin your own rotator cuff, or strike inaccurately and damage the anvil, hammer, or your workpiece. Remember that unless a particular technique calls for another approach, you want your hammer face to strike perpendicular to the anvil's face.<br />
<br />
It's ok to hit the metal hard! Sometimes you need heavy hammer blows to move metal. Sometimes you need lighter blows instead. There are needs for both power and nuance in forging. But when it's time to hit the metal hard, swing and pretend you're striking through the anvil. Unless you miss the workpiece or hit the workpiece too cold, you're unlikely to hurt the anvil.<br />
<br />
Indexing is a technique in which, instead of moving the hammer around to strike different spots on your workpiece, you keep your hammer oriented to a single spot on the anvil and move the workpiece under it. This can help you strike more accurate blows and work more efficiently. This technique can help reduce hammer marks in your work, if your accuracy otherwise isn't the best.<br />
<br />
In general, don't strike metal when it's not a red heat or hotter (orange). You stand some chance of damaging your workpiece, the anvil, or your hammer. You're also mostly wasting your energy when doing this as well. The exception is when you are making softer blows to straighten a piece or "planishing" blows to to smooth out imperfections in a workpiece. You can always take another heat to get your metal back to a glowing orange. The metal will move more easily and you reduce your risk of introducing faults into the workpiece.<br />
<br />
=== Other Tools ===<br />
The shop has a variety of tongs. Some of them can be used for various purposes and some are more single-use. The most important thing is to make sure that. the tongs you use will hold the workpiece securely. If you use tongs that don't hold the piece securely, you can have flying orange metal in the shop or otherwise cause fear and injury.<br />
<br />
We have several tools that are used in the hardy hole. The most frequently used in our shop are the hot cut and the guillotine (also known as the Smithin' Magician). <br />
<br />
The hot cut looks like a blade curved upward to the ceiling once inserted into the hardy tool. Use this by placing only hot metal at the crest of the upward curve and striking it. It's best to use gentler strikes to cut the metal here; else you might cut right trough the metal and ruin the hammer face and hot cut by striking the tool with the hammer. Never use this tool when your metal cools below a reddish color. Cooler metal will chip the blade.<br />
<br />
The guillotine enables you to pinch metal between two dies with roughly equal force and without needing a third hand. Insert the guillotine's hardy stalk into the hardy hole and secure it underneath with the nut and bolt. Once your workpiece is hot, lift the top die and place the workpiece underneath. Generally you'll want to hold your piece parallel to the ground and perpendicular to the faces of the dies. Then strike the top edge of the top die with the hammer. <br />
<br />
We also have a variety of chisels, punches, nail header tools, a twisting wrench, saws, a post vise, angle grinders and a big belt sander. If you're unsure how to use any of these for a reasonable purpose or safely, please ask in the Blacksmithing channel on Mattermost or seek out a smith who can help you out.<br />
<br />
=== Using the Propane Forge ===<br />
As of early 2024, we have a new forge placed pretty centrally in the building, with gas lines running up to the ceiling and over to the wall by the side door. It requires different, slightly more complicated startup and shut-down procedures.<br />
<br />
Assuming the person before you followed the procedure when shutting down, you should see the manifold in a state just like in this image -- with all valves turned down. Down is off. <br />
<br />
[[File:Knox Makers Blacksmithing Zone - Propane Manifold .jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
The forge itself looks like this, with a valve at the top of each of the two burners:<br />
<br />
[[File:Cayenne Forge.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
The handles of those valves should be turned so that they run perpendicular to the hoses. This is also off. Once you've confirmed all valves are off you can begin the startup procedure. The order of these steps matters.<br />
<br />
<br />
# Go to the propane tank in the corner behind the power hammer and turn the top valve open a few turns. You do not need to touch the red regulator knob next to the tank; it is there to protect the plumbed lines and manifold from the very high pressures of the tank and shouldn't need to be adjusted.<br />
# Go to the manifold (the series of valves and tubes pictured above) and open the main valve (bottom right in the image). <br />
# Now open the top valve. The gauge next to that valve should now show a value of around 3-5psi. Please note the handles and knobs have been color coded white and black for the two gas lines. The white line is the only one currently in use. Don't use the black valve or regulator. It is currently sealed.<br />
# Approach the forge. Each each burner has a sliding collar. Loosen the wingnut and slide the collar down until 1 inch of the opening is seen, and re-tighten the wingnut. Do the same for the other burner.<br />
# Now grab your fire starter. There's a high shelf in the corner of the blacksmithing building with a handheld propane torch on it (it has a blue tank about the size of a Pringles can). Turn the blue knob on it to open the valve until it hisses a little and then click the ignite "trigger." <br />
# Stand to the side of the forge (not right in front of the open ends) and put the end of the lit torch inside the the body of the forge. You don't have to put it very far in -- don't put your hand in.<br />
# Open both valves at the top of the forge. The torch should ignite the burners and begin heating the forge. <br />
# Return the blue propane torch we use to light the forge to its home, making sure to close the valve so it doesn't leak.<br />
<br />
You're ready to forge!<br />
<br />
Shutdown is the same process. <br />
<br />
# Starting at the tank, close the top valve. The forge will slowly die out as the pressure drops. <br />
# Once the forge has gone out (about 5 seconds) you can close the main line valve.<br />
# Close the the white line valve<br />
# Close both valves on top of the forge. <br />
# The last step is to loosen the wing nuts on sliding collars at the top of the burners, slide the collars closed, and re-tighten the wingnuts. This will help to keep the burners from acting like a chimney and will reduce unnecessary heat and wear to the burner components.<br />
<br />
Plan to stick around for about a half hour after you turn the forge off, to make sure it cools down a bit. Plan this time into your forge time so that you don't get in a hurry and need to leave prematurely. Why not sweep a little and tidy up while you wait? :) <br />
<br />
If the flame dies while you're forging, you've probably exhausted a tank. We have three tanks in rotation and one usually has some propane in it. You can drop a note in the Blacksmithing channel in Mattermost and we'll get the tank swapped out. If you wish to keep working and feel comfortable doing this safely, you can do the shutdown sequence to clear any gas from the line, disconnect the regulator (there's a wrench in the corner), carefully roll the empty tank on its base to where the spare tanks are and replace with a full one. Attach the chain around the new tank as it had been attached around the original tank. Don't over-tighten the regulator when screwing back in (also don't under-tighten it). If you're not comfortable doing this, please don't -- better to ask for help and pick your work back up later than to have an accident.<br />
<br />
=== Using the Coal Forge ===<br />
If you know how to use a coal forge, just use it. Please make sure the fire has died down before leaving. We use a hand-crank rotary blower. It lives inside the blacksmith building and needs to be attached to the forge before use and unattached and stowed back in the building after. Please make sure any coal rakes or other tools go back inside the building when you're done.<br />
<br />
If you don't know how to use a coal forge, please ask for help and someone can show you how.<br />
<br />
=== Closing up Shop ===<br />
Please try to leave the shop at least as clean as you found it. Throw away any beverage containers or other trash you bring in, and put any tools you got out back where they belong. If you see other things out of place, put them back in place. If you've generated steel scale or dust in any appreciable amount, sweep it out the front doors.<br />
<br />
When you leave, secure the sliding front doors by sliding them closed, looping the chain to link them together, and latching the hooks in at the edges. Turn out the main lights using the switch by the door, and lock the side door before you leave. <br />
<br />
== Manuals ==<br />
* [[Media:KM-Little-Giant.pdf|Little Giant 25-pound Power Hammer]] (requires authorization)</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Blacksmithing&diff=4278Blacksmithing2024-02-11T00:09:15Z<p>Dllh: Updating with instructions for the new Cayenne forge.</p>
<hr />
<div>== Safety ==<br />
* Wear safety glasses, long pants, and closed-toed shoes. Avoid synthetic fabrics. Cotton is good. Wear ear plugs if you like (the power hammer in particular is very loud). Aprons and gloves are available if you want them. Beware of the boiling frog situation in which you grow acclimated to holding warm metal and suddenly discover you're holding hot metal that will burn you.<br />
* Orange metal can burn you severely.<br />
* Black/gray metal can burn you worse. Never touch black/gray metal unless you know for certain it isn't hot.<br />
* If you dip a piece of hot metal into the tank and it dries, it's still hot. If it stays wet, it's ok to touch.<br />
* When testing metal for heat with your hand, use your knuckles rather than your fingertips.<br />
* Hot pieces of metal that we're done with go underneath the forge. Always assume that anything under there is hot and treat it accordingly.<br />
* Know what metal you're putting into the forge. We have a lot of mild steel around the shop, which is fine. Heating galvanized metal can release fumes that will kill you. If in doubt, ask for help!<br />
* Never hammer on the anvil face when using a hot cut or similar tool in the hardy. You might hurt yourself or send something flying.<br />
* Make sure there's ventilation. Keep at least the front doors open when forging.<br />
* Know where the fire extinguishers are and how to use them.<br />
* Never forget that everything in the shop is designed to pinch, burn, stab, bruise, asphyxiate, crush, or cut you or others.<br />
* Don't use the power hammer or the torch without taking the relevant auth classes. <br />
<br />
== Authorizations ==<br />
The power hammer requires its own authorization class. The torch does too. Do not use these without being authorized.<br />
<br />
== Basic Tool Use ==<br />
=== The Anvil===<br />
The anvil has several named parts, and different parts can have different parts. The common elements of the shop's anvils are as follows:<br />
* '''Face'''. This is the long horizontal surface that faces the ceiling. It's the primary surface you put metal on to hammer.<br />
* '''Horn'''. Also sometimes called the "beak" or "bick," this is the roughly conical shaped bit sticking off one end of the anvil. It's good for putting curves in metal and drawing out metal. Some anvils have a flat horn on the other end; this horn is not round but tapers down to a blunt point.<br />
* '''Hardy hole'''. This is the square hole in the anvil's face. Tools that can aid with things like cutting, bending, and otherwise shaping metal have stalks that fit into the hardy hole. Never have one of these tools in the hardy hole when not using them. Always remove them before working on the face of the anvil.<br />
* '''Pritchel hole'''. This is a round hole in the face of the anvil. Some anvils have more than one. They're used in the final step of punching holes in metal.<br />
* '''Edge'''. The edges are the long corners of the face of the anvil. If the anvil is situated in front of you long-ways from left to right, the top corner closest to you is the "near" edge and the one farthest from you is the "off" edge. There are some forging operations that work best if you do them on the near edge and others that work best on the far edge. If you move to the other side of the anvil, the near and far edges move along with you -- near is always the one closest.<br />
<br />
The common wisdom is that the ideal height of the face of the anvil is where your knuckles hang by your side if you're making a loose fist. Different people have different preferences. Mostly you want the anvil face to be in a position in which your hammer blows will land perpendicular to the face of the anvil. This will give you the cleanest forging and reduce hammer gouges in the anvil face or your work. Forging on an anvil of the wrong height can lead you to have joint discomfort.<br />
<br />
=== The Hammer ===<br />
Different hammers are for different tasks. Sometimes a lighter hammer will be better than a heavier. Different shapes of hammer face are better for different operations. A hammer that has a flat face and a rounding face or cross peen are good first hammers. <br />
<br />
Hold the hammer with the thumb around the hammer rather than on top. Choke up or don't, as you like. The hammer goes in your dominant hand, tongs or workpiece in your non-dominant.<br />
<br />
Stand close to the anvil when hammering. This can help with accuracy and can also reduce shoulder and elbow strain. When swinging the hammer, try to keep your elbow tucked in close to your body and use efficient hammer strokes. Don't swing wildly or too high, as you might hurt somebody, ruin your own rotator cuff, or strike inaccurately and damage the anvil, hammer, or your workpiece. Remember that unless a particular technique calls for another approach, you want your hammer face to strike perpendicular to the anvil's face.<br />
<br />
It's ok to hit the metal hard! Sometimes you need heavy hammer blows to move metal. Sometimes you need lighter blows instead. There are needs for both power and nuance in forging. But when it's time to hit the metal hard, swing and pretend you're striking through the anvil. Unless you miss the workpiece or hit the workpiece too cold, you're unlikely to hurt the anvil.<br />
<br />
Indexing is a technique in which, instead of moving the hammer around to strike different spots on your workpiece, you keep your hammer oriented to a single spot on the anvil and move the workpiece under it. This can help you strike more accurate blows and work more efficiently. This technique can help reduce hammer marks in your work, if your accuracy otherwise isn't the best.<br />
<br />
In general, don't strike metal when it's not a red heat or hotter (orange). You stand some chance of damaging your workpiece, the anvil, or your hammer. You're also mostly wasting your energy when doing this as well. The exception is when you are making softer blows to straighten a piece or "planishing" blows to to smooth out imperfections in a workpiece. You can always take another heat to get your metal back to a glowing orange. The metal will move more easily and you reduce your risk of introducing faults into the workpiece.<br />
<br />
=== Other Tools ===<br />
The shop has a variety of tongs. Some of them can be used for various purposes and some are more single-use. The most important thing is to make sure that. the tongs you use will hold the workpiece securely. If you use tongs that don't hold the piece securely, you can have flying orange metal in the shop or otherwise cause fear and injury.<br />
<br />
We have several tools that are used in the hardy hole. The most frequently used in our shop are the hot cut and the guillotine (also known as the Smithin' Magician). <br />
<br />
The hot cut looks like a blade curved upward to the ceiling once inserted into the hardy tool. Use this by placing only hot metal at the crest of the upward curve and striking it. It's best to use gentler strikes to cut the metal here; else you might cut right trough the metal and ruin the hammer face and hot cut by striking the tool with the hammer. Never use this tool when your metal cools below a reddish color. Cooler metal will chip the blade.<br />
<br />
The guillotine enables you to pinch metal between two dies with roughly equal force and without needing a third hand. Insert the guillotine's hardy stalk into the hardy hole and secure it underneath with the nut and bolt. Once your workpiece is hot, lift the top die and place the workpiece underneath. Generally you'll want to hold your piece parallel to the ground and perpendicular to the faces of the dies. Then strike the top edge of the top die with the hammer. <br />
<br />
We also have a variety of chisels, punches, nail header tools, a twisting wrench, saws, a post vise, angle grinders and a big belt sander. If you're unsure how to use any of these for a reasonable purpose or safely, please ask in the Blacksmithing channel on Mattermost or seek out a smith who can help you out.<br />
<br />
=== Using the Propane Forge ===<br />
As of early 2024, we have a new forge placed pretty centrally in the building, with gas lines running up to the ceiling and over to the wall by the side door. It requires different, slightly more complicated startup and shut-down procedures.<br />
<br />
Assuming the person before you followed the procedure when shutting down, you should see the manifold in a state just like in this image -- with all valves turned down. Down is off. <br />
<br />
[[File:Knox Makers Blacksmithing Zone - Propane Manifold .jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
The forge itself looks like this, with a valve at the top of each of the two burners:<br />
<br />
[[File:Cayenne Forge.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
The handles of those valves should be turned so that they run perpendicular to the hoses. This is also off. Once you've confirmed all valves are off you can begin the startup procedure.<br />
<br />
Go to the propane tank in the corner behind the power hammer and turn the top valve open a few turns. You do not need to touch the red regulator knob next to the tank; it is there to protect the plumbed lines and manifold from the very high pressures of the tank and shouldn't need to be adjusted.<br />
<br />
Go to the manifold (the series of valves and tubes pictured above) and open the main valve (bottom right in the image). <br />
<br />
Now open the top valve. The gauge next to that valve should now show a value of around 3-5psi. Please note the handles and knobs have been color coded white and black for the two gas lines. The white line is the only one currently in use. Don't use the black valve or regulator. It is currently sealed.<br />
<br />
Approach the forge. Each each burner has a sliding collar. Loosen the wingnut and slide the collar down until 1 inch of the opening is seen, and re-tighten the wingnut. Do the same for the other burner.<br />
<br />
Now grab your fire starter. There's a high shelf in the corner of the blacksmithing building with a handheld propane torch on it (it has a blue tank about the size of a Pringles can). Turn the blue knob on it to open the valve until it hisses a little and then click the ignite "trigger." <br />
<br />
Stand to the side of the forge (not right in front of the open ends) and put the end of the lit torch inside the the body of the forge. You don't have to put it very far in -- don't put your hand in.<br />
<br />
Open both valves at the top of the forge. The torch should ignite the burners and begin heating the forge. <br />
<br />
Return the blue propane torch we use to light the forge to its home, making sure to close the valve so it doesn't leak.<br />
<br />
You're ready to forge!<br />
<br />
Shutdown is the same process. Starting at the tank, close the top valve. The forge will slowly die out as the pressure drops. Once the forge has gone out (about 5 seconds) you can close the main line valve, followed by the white line valve, then both valves on top of the forge. The last step is to loosen the wing nuts on sliding collars at the top of the burners, slide the collars closed, and re-tighten the wingnuts. This will help to keep the burners from acting like a chimney and will reduce unnecessary heat and wear to the burner components.<br />
<br />
Plan to stick around for about a half hour after you turn the forge off, to make sure it cools down a bit. Plan this time into your forge time so that you don't get in a hurry and need to leave prematurely. Why not sweep a little and tidy up while you wait? :) <br />
<br />
If the flame dies while you're forging, you've probably exhausted a tank. We have three tanks in rotation and one usually has some propane in it. You can drop a note in the Blacksmithing channel in Mattermost and we'll get the tank swapped out. If you wish to keep working and feel comfortable doing this safely, you can do the shutdown sequence to clear any gas from the line, disconnect the regulator (there's a wrench in the corner), carefully roll the empty tank on its base to where the spare tanks are and replace with a full one. Attach the chain around the new tank as it had been attached around the original tank. Don't over-tighten the regulator when screwing back in (also don't under-tighten it). If you're not comfortable doing this, please don't -- better to ask for help and pick your work back up later than to have an accident.<br />
<br />
=== Using the Coal Forge ===<br />
If you know how to use a coal forge, just use it. Please make sure the fire has died down before leaving. We use a hand-crank rotary blower. It lives inside the blacksmith building and needs to be attached to the forge before use and unattached and stowed back in the building after. Please make sure any coal rakes or other tools go back inside the building when you're done.<br />
<br />
If you don't know how to use a coal forge, please ask for help and someone can show you how.<br />
<br />
=== Closing up Shop ===<br />
Please try to leave the shop at least as clean as you found it. Throw away any beverage containers or other trash you bring in, and put any tools you got out back where they belong. If you see other things out of place, put them back in place. If you've generated steel scale or dust in any appreciable amount, sweep it out the front doors.<br />
<br />
When you leave, secure the sliding front doors by sliding them closed, looping the chain to link them together, and latching the hooks in at the edges. Turn out the main lights using the switch by the door, and lock the side door before you leave. <br />
<br />
== Manuals ==<br />
* [[Media:KM-Little-Giant.pdf|Little Giant 25-pound Power Hammer]] (requires authorization)</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=File:Cayenne_Forge.jpg&diff=4277File:Cayenne Forge.jpg2024-02-10T23:53:30Z<p>Dllh: </p>
<hr />
<div>Cayenne Forge</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=File:Knox_Makers_Blacksmithing_Zone_-_Propane_Manifold_.jpg&diff=4276File:Knox Makers Blacksmithing Zone - Propane Manifold .jpg2024-02-10T23:50:31Z<p>Dllh: </p>
<hr />
<div>Picture of our the KM blacksmithing zone's propane manifold.</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Blacksmithing&diff=4225Blacksmithing2023-12-17T23:25:44Z<p>Dllh: Bullet fix</p>
<hr />
<div>== Safety ==<br />
* Wear safety glasses, long pants, and closed-toed shoes. Avoid synthetic fabrics. Cotton is good. Wear ear plugs if you like (the power hammer in particular is very loud). Aprons and gloves are available if you want them. Beware of the boiling frog situation in which you grow acclimated to holding warm metal and suddenly discover you're holding hot metal that will burn you.<br />
* Orange metal can burn you severely.<br />
* Black/gray metal can burn you worse. Never touch black/gray metal unless you know for certain it isn't hot.<br />
* If you dip a piece of hot metal into the tank and it dries, it's still hot. If it stays wet, it's ok to touch.<br />
* When testing metal for heat with your hand, use your knuckles rather than your fingertips.<br />
* Hot pieces of metal that we're done with go underneath the forge. Always assume that anything under there is hot and treat it accordingly.<br />
* Know what metal you're putting into the forge. We have a lot of mild steel around the shop, which is fine. Heating galvanized metal can release fumes that will kill you. If in doubt, ask for help!<br />
* Never hammer on the anvil face when using a hot cut or similar tool in the hardy. You might hurt yourself or send something flying.<br />
* Make sure there's ventilation. Keep at least the front doors open when forging.<br />
* Know where the fire extinguishers are and how to use them.<br />
* Never forget that everything in the shop is designed to pinch, burn, stab, bruise, asphyxiate, crush, or cut you or others.<br />
* Don't use the power hammer or the torch without taking the relevant auth classes. <br />
<br />
== Authorizations ==<br />
The power hammer requires its own authorization class. The torch does too. Do not use these without being authorized.<br />
<br />
== Basic Tool Use ==<br />
=== The Anvil===<br />
The anvil has several named parts, and different parts can have different parts. The common elements of the shop's anvils are as follows:<br />
* '''Face'''. This is the long horizontal surface that faces the ceiling. It's the primary surface you put metal on to hammer.<br />
* '''Horn'''. Also sometimes called the "beak" or "bick," this is the roughly conical shaped bit sticking off one end of the anvil. It's good for putting curves in metal and drawing out metal. Some anvils have a flat horn on the other end; this horn is not round but tapers down to a blunt point.<br />
* '''Hardy hole'''. This is the square hole in the anvil's face. Tools that can aid with things like cutting, bending, and otherwise shaping metal have stalks that fit into the hardy hole. Never have one of these tools in the hardy hole when not using them. Always remove them before working on the face of the anvil.<br />
* '''Pritchel hole'''. This is a round hole in the face of the anvil. Some anvils have more than one. They're used in the final step of punching holes in metal.<br />
* '''Edge'''. The edges are the long corners of the face of the anvil. If the anvil is situated in front of you long-ways from left to right, the top corner closest to you is the "near" edge and the one farthest from you is the "off" edge. There are some forging operations that work best if you do them on the near edge and others that work best on the far edge. If you move to the other side of the anvil, the near and far edges move along with you -- near is always the one closest.<br />
<br />
The common wisdom is that the ideal height of the face of the anvil is where your knuckles hang by your side if you're making a loose fist. Different people have different preferences. Mostly you want the anvil face to be in a position in which your hammer blows will land perpendicular to the face of the anvil. This will give you the cleanest forging and reduce hammer gouges in the anvil face or your work. Forging on an anvil of the wrong height can lead you to have joint discomfort.<br />
<br />
=== The Hammer ===<br />
Different hammers are for different tasks. Sometimes a lighter hammer will be better than a heavier. Different shapes of hammer face are better for different operations. A hammer that has a flat face and a rounding face or cross peen are good first hammers. <br />
<br />
Hold the hammer with the thumb around the hammer rather than on top. Choke up or don't, as you like. The hammer goes in your dominant hand, tongs or workpiece in your non-dominant.<br />
<br />
Stand close to the anvil when hammering. This can help with accuracy and can also reduce shoulder and elbow strain. When swinging the hammer, try to keep your elbow tucked in close to your body and use efficient hammer strokes. Don't swing wildly or too high, as you might hurt somebody, ruin your own rotator cuff, or strike inaccurately and damage the anvil, hammer, or your workpiece. Remember that unless a particular technique calls for another approach, you want your hammer face to strike perpendicular to the anvil's face.<br />
<br />
It's ok to hit the metal hard! Sometimes you need heavy hammer blows to move metal. Sometimes you need lighter blows instead. There are needs for both power and nuance in forging. But when it's time to hit the metal hard, swing and pretend you're striking through the anvil. Unless you miss the workpiece or hit the workpiece too cold, you're unlikely to hurt the anvil.<br />
<br />
Indexing is a technique in which, instead of moving the hammer around to strike different spots on your workpiece, you keep your hammer oriented to a single spot on the anvil and move the workpiece under it. This can help you strike more accurate blows and work more efficiently. This technique can help reduce hammer marks in your work, if your accuracy otherwise isn't the best.<br />
<br />
In general, don't strike metal when it's not a red heat or hotter (orange). You stand some chance of damaging your workpiece, the anvil, or your hammer. You're also mostly wasting your energy when doing this as well. The exception is when you are making softer blows to straighten a piece or "planishing" blows to to smooth out imperfections in a workpiece. You can always take another heat to get your metal back to a glowing orange. The metal will move more easily and you reduce your risk of introducing faults into the workpiece.<br />
<br />
=== Other Tools ===<br />
The shop has a variety of tongs. Some of them can be used for various purposes and some are more single-use. The most important thing is to make sure that. the tongs you use will hold the workpiece securely. If you use tongs that don't hold the piece securely, you can have flying orange metal in the shop or otherwise cause fear and injury.<br />
<br />
We have several tools that are used in the hardy hole. The most frequently used in our shop are the hot cut and the guillotine (also known as the Smithin' Magician). <br />
<br />
The hot cut looks like a blade curved upward to the ceiling once inserted into the hardy tool. Use this by placing only hot metal at the crest of the upward curve and striking it. It's best to use gentler strikes to cut the metal here; else you might cut right trough the metal and ruin the hammer face and hot cut by striking the tool with the hammer. Never use this tool when your metal cools below a reddish color. Cooler metal will chip the blade.<br />
<br />
The guillotine enables you to pinch metal between two dies with roughly equal force and without needing a third hand. Insert the guillotine's hardy stalk into the hardy hole and secure it underneath with the nut and bolt. Once your workpiece is hot, lift the top die and place the workpiece underneath. Generally you'll want to hold your piece parallel to the ground and perpendicular to the faces of the dies. Then strike the top edge of the top die with the hammer. <br />
<br />
We also have a variety of chisels, punches, nail header tools, a twisting wrench, saws, a post vise, angle grinders and a big belt sander. If you're unsure how to use any of these for a reasonable purpose or safely, please ask in the Blacksmithing channel on Mattermost or seek out a smith who can help you out.<br />
<br />
=== Using the Propane Forge ===<br />
Always insert flame into the forge before turning on the gas. If you run the gas first, you can make a fireball and a boom, which can be dangerous.<br />
<br />
There's a high shelf in the corner of the blacksmithing building with a handheld propane torch on it. This is handy for lighting the forge. If you use this, please make sure to turn the gas knob all the way off once done.<br />
<br />
To turn on the gas to the forge, turn the knob on the top of the propane tank. There's generally no need to turn the red knob on the regulator unless you want to change the PSI. We usually run at around 10 PSI, and there's generally not a need to go much higher. <br />
<br />
When you're done with the forge, just turn the knob on the top of the big propane tank until the gas flow stops and the forge stops emitting fire. You'll be able to hear and see the difference. <br />
<br />
Plan to stick around for about a half hour after you turn the forge off, to make sure it cools down a bit. Plan this time into your forge time so that you don't get in a hurry and need to leave prematurely.<br />
<br />
If the flame dies while you're forging, you've probably exhausted a tank. We have three tanks in rotation and one usually has some propane in it. Disconnect the regulator (there's a wrench in the corner), carefully roll the empty tank on its base to where the spare tanks are and replace with a full one. Attach the chain around the new tank as it had been attached around the original tank. Don't over-tighten the regulator when screwing back in (also don't under-tighten it). If you're not comfortable doing this, mention in the Blacksmithing channel that the tank needs replacing and somebody'll take care of it when they're next at the shop.<br />
<br />
=== Using the Coal Forge ===<br />
If you know how to use a coal forge, just use it. Please make sure the fire has died down before leaving. We use a hand-crank rotary blower. It lives inside the blacksmith building and needs to be attached to the forge before use and unattached and stowed back in the building after. Please make sure any coal rakes or other tools go back inside the building when you're done.<br />
<br />
If you don't know how to use a coal forge, please ask for help and someone can show you how.<br />
<br />
=== Closing up Shop ===<br />
Please try to leave the shop at least as clean as you found it. Throw away any beverage containers or other trash you bring in, and put any tools you got out back where they belong. If you see other things out of place, put them back in place. If you've generated steel scale or dust in any appreciable amount, sweep it out the front doors.<br />
<br />
When you leave, secure the sliding front doors by sliding them closed, looping the chain to link them together, and latching the hooks in at the edges. Turn out the main lights using the switch by the door, and lock the side door before you leave. <br />
<br />
== Manuals ==<br />
* [[Media:KM-Little-Giant.pdf|Little Giant 25-pound Power Hammer]] (requires authorization)</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Blacksmithing&diff=4224Blacksmithing2023-12-17T23:25:20Z<p>Dllh: New page to document basic blacksmithing stuff. Figured we may as well have this available as a reference for after the shop auth or for general reference.</p>
<hr />
<div>== Safety ==<br />
* Wear safety glasses, long pants, and closed-toed shoes. Avoid synthetic fabrics. Cotton is good. Wear ear plugs if you like (the power hammer in particular is very loud). Aprons and gloves are available if you want them. Beware of the boiling frog situation in which you grow acclimated to holding warm metal and suddenly discover you're holding hot metal that will burn you.<br />
* Orange metal can burn you severely.<br />
* Black/gray metal can burn you worse. Never touch black/gray metal unless you know for certain it isn't hot.<br />
* If you dip a piece of hot metal into the tank and it dries, it's still hot. If it stays wet, it's ok to touch.<br />
* When testing metal for heat with your hand, use your knuckles rather than your fingertips.<br />
* Hot pieces of metal that we're done with go underneath the forge. Always assume that anything under there is hot and treat it accordingly.<br />
* Know what metal you're putting into the forge. We have a lot of mild steel around the shop, which is fine. Heating galvanized metal can release fumes that will kill you. If in doubt, ask for help!<br />
* Never hammer on the anvil face when using a hot cut or similar tool in the hardy. You might hurt yourself or send something flying.<br />
* Make sure there's ventilation. Keep at least the front doors open when forging.<br />
* Know where the fire extinguishers are and how to use them.<br />
* Never forget that everything in the shop is designed to pinch, burn, stab, bruise, asphyxiate, crush, or cut you or others.<br />
- Don't use the power hammer or the torch without taking the relevant auth classes. <br />
<br />
== Authorizations ==<br />
The power hammer requires its own authorization class. The torch does too. Do not use these without being authorized.<br />
<br />
== Basic Tool Use ==<br />
=== The Anvil===<br />
The anvil has several named parts, and different parts can have different parts. The common elements of the shop's anvils are as follows:<br />
* '''Face'''. This is the long horizontal surface that faces the ceiling. It's the primary surface you put metal on to hammer.<br />
* '''Horn'''. Also sometimes called the "beak" or "bick," this is the roughly conical shaped bit sticking off one end of the anvil. It's good for putting curves in metal and drawing out metal. Some anvils have a flat horn on the other end; this horn is not round but tapers down to a blunt point.<br />
* '''Hardy hole'''. This is the square hole in the anvil's face. Tools that can aid with things like cutting, bending, and otherwise shaping metal have stalks that fit into the hardy hole. Never have one of these tools in the hardy hole when not using them. Always remove them before working on the face of the anvil.<br />
* '''Pritchel hole'''. This is a round hole in the face of the anvil. Some anvils have more than one. They're used in the final step of punching holes in metal.<br />
* '''Edge'''. The edges are the long corners of the face of the anvil. If the anvil is situated in front of you long-ways from left to right, the top corner closest to you is the "near" edge and the one farthest from you is the "off" edge. There are some forging operations that work best if you do them on the near edge and others that work best on the far edge. If you move to the other side of the anvil, the near and far edges move along with you -- near is always the one closest.<br />
<br />
The common wisdom is that the ideal height of the face of the anvil is where your knuckles hang by your side if you're making a loose fist. Different people have different preferences. Mostly you want the anvil face to be in a position in which your hammer blows will land perpendicular to the face of the anvil. This will give you the cleanest forging and reduce hammer gouges in the anvil face or your work. Forging on an anvil of the wrong height can lead you to have joint discomfort.<br />
<br />
=== The Hammer ===<br />
Different hammers are for different tasks. Sometimes a lighter hammer will be better than a heavier. Different shapes of hammer face are better for different operations. A hammer that has a flat face and a rounding face or cross peen are good first hammers. <br />
<br />
Hold the hammer with the thumb around the hammer rather than on top. Choke up or don't, as you like. The hammer goes in your dominant hand, tongs or workpiece in your non-dominant.<br />
<br />
Stand close to the anvil when hammering. This can help with accuracy and can also reduce shoulder and elbow strain. When swinging the hammer, try to keep your elbow tucked in close to your body and use efficient hammer strokes. Don't swing wildly or too high, as you might hurt somebody, ruin your own rotator cuff, or strike inaccurately and damage the anvil, hammer, or your workpiece. Remember that unless a particular technique calls for another approach, you want your hammer face to strike perpendicular to the anvil's face.<br />
<br />
It's ok to hit the metal hard! Sometimes you need heavy hammer blows to move metal. Sometimes you need lighter blows instead. There are needs for both power and nuance in forging. But when it's time to hit the metal hard, swing and pretend you're striking through the anvil. Unless you miss the workpiece or hit the workpiece too cold, you're unlikely to hurt the anvil.<br />
<br />
Indexing is a technique in which, instead of moving the hammer around to strike different spots on your workpiece, you keep your hammer oriented to a single spot on the anvil and move the workpiece under it. This can help you strike more accurate blows and work more efficiently. This technique can help reduce hammer marks in your work, if your accuracy otherwise isn't the best.<br />
<br />
In general, don't strike metal when it's not a red heat or hotter (orange). You stand some chance of damaging your workpiece, the anvil, or your hammer. You're also mostly wasting your energy when doing this as well. The exception is when you are making softer blows to straighten a piece or "planishing" blows to to smooth out imperfections in a workpiece. You can always take another heat to get your metal back to a glowing orange. The metal will move more easily and you reduce your risk of introducing faults into the workpiece.<br />
<br />
=== Other Tools ===<br />
The shop has a variety of tongs. Some of them can be used for various purposes and some are more single-use. The most important thing is to make sure that. the tongs you use will hold the workpiece securely. If you use tongs that don't hold the piece securely, you can have flying orange metal in the shop or otherwise cause fear and injury.<br />
<br />
We have several tools that are used in the hardy hole. The most frequently used in our shop are the hot cut and the guillotine (also known as the Smithin' Magician). <br />
<br />
The hot cut looks like a blade curved upward to the ceiling once inserted into the hardy tool. Use this by placing only hot metal at the crest of the upward curve and striking it. It's best to use gentler strikes to cut the metal here; else you might cut right trough the metal and ruin the hammer face and hot cut by striking the tool with the hammer. Never use this tool when your metal cools below a reddish color. Cooler metal will chip the blade.<br />
<br />
The guillotine enables you to pinch metal between two dies with roughly equal force and without needing a third hand. Insert the guillotine's hardy stalk into the hardy hole and secure it underneath with the nut and bolt. Once your workpiece is hot, lift the top die and place the workpiece underneath. Generally you'll want to hold your piece parallel to the ground and perpendicular to the faces of the dies. Then strike the top edge of the top die with the hammer. <br />
<br />
We also have a variety of chisels, punches, nail header tools, a twisting wrench, saws, a post vise, angle grinders and a big belt sander. If you're unsure how to use any of these for a reasonable purpose or safely, please ask in the Blacksmithing channel on Mattermost or seek out a smith who can help you out.<br />
<br />
=== Using the Propane Forge ===<br />
Always insert flame into the forge before turning on the gas. If you run the gas first, you can make a fireball and a boom, which can be dangerous.<br />
<br />
There's a high shelf in the corner of the blacksmithing building with a handheld propane torch on it. This is handy for lighting the forge. If you use this, please make sure to turn the gas knob all the way off once done.<br />
<br />
To turn on the gas to the forge, turn the knob on the top of the propane tank. There's generally no need to turn the red knob on the regulator unless you want to change the PSI. We usually run at around 10 PSI, and there's generally not a need to go much higher. <br />
<br />
When you're done with the forge, just turn the knob on the top of the big propane tank until the gas flow stops and the forge stops emitting fire. You'll be able to hear and see the difference. <br />
<br />
Plan to stick around for about a half hour after you turn the forge off, to make sure it cools down a bit. Plan this time into your forge time so that you don't get in a hurry and need to leave prematurely.<br />
<br />
If the flame dies while you're forging, you've probably exhausted a tank. We have three tanks in rotation and one usually has some propane in it. Disconnect the regulator (there's a wrench in the corner), carefully roll the empty tank on its base to where the spare tanks are and replace with a full one. Attach the chain around the new tank as it had been attached around the original tank. Don't over-tighten the regulator when screwing back in (also don't under-tighten it). If you're not comfortable doing this, mention in the Blacksmithing channel that the tank needs replacing and somebody'll take care of it when they're next at the shop.<br />
<br />
=== Using the Coal Forge ===<br />
If you know how to use a coal forge, just use it. Please make sure the fire has died down before leaving. We use a hand-crank rotary blower. It lives inside the blacksmith building and needs to be attached to the forge before use and unattached and stowed back in the building after. Please make sure any coal rakes or other tools go back inside the building when you're done.<br />
<br />
If you don't know how to use a coal forge, please ask for help and someone can show you how.<br />
<br />
=== Closing up Shop ===<br />
Please try to leave the shop at least as clean as you found it. Throw away any beverage containers or other trash you bring in, and put any tools you got out back where they belong. If you see other things out of place, put them back in place. If you've generated steel scale or dust in any appreciable amount, sweep it out the front doors.<br />
<br />
When you leave, secure the sliding front doors by sliding them closed, looping the chain to link them together, and latching the hooks in at the edges. Turn out the main lights using the switch by the door, and lock the side door before you leave. <br />
<br />
== Manuals ==<br />
* [[Media:KM-Little-Giant.pdf|Little Giant 25-pound Power Hammer]] (requires authorization)</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Main_Page&diff=4223Main Page2023-12-17T22:21:56Z<p>Dllh: Adding Blacksmithing link, from which I'll link our power hammer auth page and some intro/safety stuff.</p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__<br />
'''Welcome to the Knox Makers Wiki!'''<br />
<br />
''Write Access to this wiki is limited to members.''<br />
<br />
=About Knox Makers=<br />
<br />
Here is a [[Space History| history of Knox Makers ]]<br />
<br />
List of [https://knoxmakers.org/tools/ tools]<br />
<br />
Link to [[ Tool Docuentation | Tool Documentation and Manual pdfs ]]<br />
<br />
==Members==<br />
<br />
[[Membership Rules]] - Here is a place to find the rules that our members are expected to follow.<br />
<br />
[[How to Become a Member]] - An overview of the process.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Functional Areas==<br />
Knox Makers has several distinct areas in our workshop, and each area has an area leader known as a [https://knoxmakers.org/wiki/czar Czar] (or Czarina). The areas and their respective Czars/Czarinas are:<br />
*Hospitality - [https://knoxmakers.org/member/margaret Margaret]<br />
*3D Printing/Scanning - [https://knoxmakers.org/member/cooper.wade/ Cooper]<br />
*Arts & Crafts - [https://knoxmakers.org/member/sean/ Sean]<br />
*[[Electronics]] - [https://knoxmakers.org/member/ray/ Ray]<br />
*[[Fiber Arts]] - [https://knoxmakers.org/member/joslin/ Sue]<br />
*[[Woodworking]] - [https://knoxmakers.org/member/brian-greenh0e/ Brian]<br />
*[[Machining]] - [https://knoxmakers.org/member/billy/ Billy] <br />
*[[Metalworking]] - [https://knoxmakers.org/member/joehall31415/ Joe] <br />
*[[Lasercutting]] - [https://knoxmakers.org/member/jondale Jondale]<br />
*[[Blacksmithing]] - [https://knoxmakers.org/member/andrewm/ Andrew]<br />
*Safety and First Aid - [https://knoxmakers.org/member/tonybaker/ Tony]<br />
*Classroom (including A/V systems, administrative storage and server rack) - [https://knoxmakers.org/board-of-directors/ Board of Directors]<br />
*Rental Bays (including work bays, pallet racks, and long goods storage) - [https://knoxmakers.org/board-of-directors/ Board of Directors]<br />
<br />
==Corporate==<br />
[[Vision]] - Our Vision Statement, Mission Statement, and Core Values<br />
<br />
[[Board of Directors]] - A list of our current directors and their working items.<br />
<br />
[[Bylaws]] - The corporate organization and other major items details are covered here.<br />
<br />
[[Officer Duties]] - A description of duties performed by the board of directors.<br />
<br />
[[Meeting Minutes|Meeting Minutes]] - Minutes from our monthly board meetings<br />
<br />
[[Logo]] - Knox Makers Logo<br />
<br />
[[Knox Makers Privacy Policy]] - Privacy Policy</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Tool_Documentation&diff=4211Tool Documentation2023-11-08T18:37:14Z<p>Dllh: Add blacksmith zone section and power hammer maintenance doc</p>
<hr />
<div>==woodworking zone==<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
|-<br />
!style="width: 375px"| Equipment !!style="width: 100px;"| Zone !! Authorization !!style="width: 85px;"| Owner(s) !!style="width: 85px;"| Status<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/3/36/PCS_Owners_Manual_Model_PCS31230_V5.0_09-13.pdf SawStop table saw with out feed table] || Woodworking || Yes || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/jondale/ Jondale] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/d/d8/Craftsman_Band_Saw.pdf Bandsaw] || Woodworking || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/4/49/Delta_Jointer.pdf Jointer] || Woodworking || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| Drill Press || Woodworking || Yes || Andrew || Running<br />
|-<br />
| 6" x 48" Combination Sander || Woodworking || Yes || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/tonybaker/ Tony B] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/0/0d/Delta_Lathe.pdf Delta 6" Wood Lathe] || Woodworking || Yes || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/jondale/ Jondale] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| Grizzly Planner || Woodworking || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| CNC Router || Woodworking || Yes || Mike F || Running<br />
|-<br />
|Miter Station || Woodworking || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/6/6f/XGK050055.pdf Dust Collector] || Woodworking || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| Down Draft Table || Woodworking || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/a/a8/Ryobi_Spindle_Sander.pdf Ryobi Oscillating Spindle Sander] || Woodworking || Yes || || Gone, but not forgotten<br />
|-<br />
| Kreg Router Table || Woodworking || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/7/76/Delta_Scroll_Saw.pdf Delta Scroll Saw] || Woodworking || Yes || Knox Makers || Gone, but not forgotten<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==machining zone==<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
|-<br />
!style="width: 375px"| Equipment !!style="width: 100px;"| Zone !! Authorization !!style="width: 85px;"| Owner(s) !!style="width: 85px;"| Status<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/7/7d/SeriesIPartList4302Plus.pdf Bridgeport Mill] || Machining || Yes || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/billy/ Billy] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| MSC 13" x 40" Lathe || Machining || Yes || Knox Makers || Running <br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/f/f2/44991.pdf Mini Mill] || Machining || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/0/08/93212.pdf 7" x 10" Mini Lathe] || Machining || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/e/ee/3830.pdf Craftsman 20" Floor Drill Press]|| Machining || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| Compound X/Y Slide Table || Machining || Yes || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/billy/ Billy] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/f/f7/En426-05-651-0001.pdf Rockwell 20" Metal-Wood Variable Speed Band Saw] || Machining || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/7/78/Delta_Bandsaw_28-303.pdf Delta 14" Metal/Wood Band Saw] || Machining || Yes || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/tonybaker/ Tony B] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| Large Horizontal Bandsaw || Machining || Yes || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/billy/ Billy] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| 3' x 6' Workbench || Machining || No || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/0/0e/32879.pdf 20 ton H-Frame Press] || Machining || No || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/billy/ Billy] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/f/f1/05907.pdf 3-in-1 Metal Shear/Brake/Roll]|| Machining || Yes || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/pcb_rob/ Rob] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| Arbor Press || Machining || No || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| 9" x 12" Surface Plate || Machining || No || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| 18" x 24" Surface Plate || Machining || No || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/billy/ Billy] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| 6" x 12" Surface Grinder || Machining || Yes || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/billy/ Billy] || Running<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==metalworking zone==<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
|-<br />
!style="width: 375px"| Equipment !!style="width: 100px;"| Zone !! Authorization !!style="width: 85px;"| Owner(s) !!style="width: 85px;"| Status<br />
|-<br />
| Pedestal Grinder || Metalworking || No || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| Bench Grinder || Metalworking || No || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| TIG Welder || Metalworking || Yes || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/pcb_rob/ Rob] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| ESAB MIG Welder || Metalworking || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| Klutch MIG Welder || Metalworking || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| Grey Plasma Cutter || Metalworking || Yes || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/pcb_rob/ Rob] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| Tubing Roller || Metalworking || No || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/pcb_rob/ Rob] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| Sand Blaster || Metalworking || No || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| 6" x 48" Belt Sander || Metalworking || No || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| 6" x 48" Belt Sander || Metalworking || No || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/billy/ Billy] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| Evolution Cut off Saw || Metalworking || Yes || Knox Makers|| Running<br />
|-<br />
| 240v Spot Welder|| Metalworking || No || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/pcb_rob/ Rob] || Running<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==electronics zone==<br />
<br />
signal generator<br />
<br />
oscilloscopes<br />
<br />
power supplies<br />
<br />
soldering workstations<br />
<br />
hot air rework station with vacuum pickup<br />
<br />
solder reflow oven<br />
<br />
==3D printing & scanning zone==<br />
<br />
RepRap Mendelmax 3D printer<br />
<br />
==Fiber Arts Zone==<br />
<br />
Normal and heavy duty sewing machines<br />
<br />
Sergers<br />
<br />
'''Embroidery Machine''' Authorization Required<br />
* ([[media:NQ1700_Embroidery_Machine_Manual.pdf|Manual]])<br />
* ([[media:Brother_Embroidery_Design_Guide.pdf|Built-in Fonts and Designs]])<br />
* additional free designs from Brother<br />
<br />
'''Brother Industrial sewing machine''' ([[media:Brother DB2-B755-3.pdf|Manual]]) Authorization Required<br />
<br />
Portable Long arm quilter (8" travel)<br />
<br />
Large Long arm quilter (coming soon)<br />
<br />
Large Quilting Frame<br />
* ([[media:Cloth Leaders.pdf|Cloth Leaders]])<br />
* ([[media:Idler Rail Accessory.pdf|Idler Rail]])<br />
Frame Assembly<br />
* ([[media:Quilting Frame Part 1 pg1-9.pdf|Pages 1-9]])<br />
* ([[media:Quilting Frame Part 2 pg10-17.pdf|Pages10-17]])<br />
* ([[media:Quilting Frame Part 3 pg18-25.pdf|Pages 18-25]])<br />
<br />
<br />
'''8 in 1 Heat Press''' Authorization Required<br />
* ([[media:8in1_Heat_Press Manual.pdf|Manual]])<br />
<br />
Irons/Iron Board and mats<br />
<br />
Variety of scissors and rotary cutting tools and mats<br />
<br />
Typical Notions for sewing, ie thread, Needles, pins, etc<br />
<br />
Crochet and Knitting needles<br />
<br />
Embroidery hoops<br />
<br />
Silohettes <br />
<br />
Variety of leather working tools<br />
<br />
==Arts & Crafts Zone==<br />
<br />
'''[[Vinyl Cutter]]'''<br />
<br />
'''Large Laminator'''<br />
<br />
'''Casting & Molding Minizone'''<br />
* Vacuum Pump<br />
* Vacuum Pot<br />
<br />
'''Glasswork & Stained Glass Minizone (coming soon)'''<br />
<br />
'''[[Large Format Printer]]'''<br />
<br />
==lasercutting zone==<br />
<br />
G.Weike LC1390 (1300x900) laser cutter<br />
<br />
* [[Import Laser|Import Process]]<br />
* [[File:Laser auth class slidedeck.pdf|Class slide deck]]<br />
* [[File:Laser tips and tricks handout.odt|Tips and Tricks]] [[File:Laser tips and tricks handout pdf.pdf|PDF]]<br />
<br />
==Blacksmithing Zone==<br />
[[Media:KM-Little-Giant.pdf|Little Giant 25-pound Power Hammer]]</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=File:KM-Little-Giant.pdf&diff=4210File:KM-Little-Giant.pdf2023-11-08T18:29:17Z<p>Dllh: Maintenance guide for our Little Giant power hammer, aka Thumper.</p>
<hr />
<div>== Summary ==<br />
Maintenance guide for our Little Giant power hammer, aka Thumper.</div>Dllhhttps://wiki.knoxmakers.org/index.php?title=Tool_Documentation&diff=4209Tool Documentation2023-11-08T18:19:05Z<p>Dllh: Update to add link to Large Format Printer page.</p>
<hr />
<div>==woodworking zone==<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
|-<br />
!style="width: 375px"| Equipment !!style="width: 100px;"| Zone !! Authorization !!style="width: 85px;"| Owner(s) !!style="width: 85px;"| Status<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/3/36/PCS_Owners_Manual_Model_PCS31230_V5.0_09-13.pdf SawStop table saw with out feed table] || Woodworking || Yes || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/jondale/ Jondale] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/d/d8/Craftsman_Band_Saw.pdf Bandsaw] || Woodworking || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/4/49/Delta_Jointer.pdf Jointer] || Woodworking || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| Drill Press || Woodworking || Yes || Andrew || Running<br />
|-<br />
| 6" x 48" Combination Sander || Woodworking || Yes || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/tonybaker/ Tony B] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/0/0d/Delta_Lathe.pdf Delta 6" Wood Lathe] || Woodworking || Yes || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/jondale/ Jondale] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| Grizzly Planner || Woodworking || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| CNC Router || Woodworking || Yes || Mike F || Running<br />
|-<br />
|Miter Station || Woodworking || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/6/6f/XGK050055.pdf Dust Collector] || Woodworking || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| Down Draft Table || Woodworking || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/a/a8/Ryobi_Spindle_Sander.pdf Ryobi Oscillating Spindle Sander] || Woodworking || Yes || || Gone, but not forgotten<br />
|-<br />
| Kreg Router Table || Woodworking || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/7/76/Delta_Scroll_Saw.pdf Delta Scroll Saw] || Woodworking || Yes || Knox Makers || Gone, but not forgotten<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==machining zone==<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
|-<br />
!style="width: 375px"| Equipment !!style="width: 100px;"| Zone !! Authorization !!style="width: 85px;"| Owner(s) !!style="width: 85px;"| Status<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/7/7d/SeriesIPartList4302Plus.pdf Bridgeport Mill] || Machining || Yes || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/billy/ Billy] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| MSC 13" x 40" Lathe || Machining || Yes || Knox Makers || Running <br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/f/f2/44991.pdf Mini Mill] || Machining || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/0/08/93212.pdf 7" x 10" Mini Lathe] || Machining || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/e/ee/3830.pdf Craftsman 20" Floor Drill Press]|| Machining || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| Compound X/Y Slide Table || Machining || Yes || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/billy/ Billy] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/f/f7/En426-05-651-0001.pdf Rockwell 20" Metal-Wood Variable Speed Band Saw] || Machining || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/7/78/Delta_Bandsaw_28-303.pdf Delta 14" Metal/Wood Band Saw] || Machining || Yes || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/tonybaker/ Tony B] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| Large Horizontal Bandsaw || Machining || Yes || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/billy/ Billy] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| 3' x 6' Workbench || Machining || No || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/0/0e/32879.pdf 20 ton H-Frame Press] || Machining || No || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/billy/ Billy] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| [https://wiki.knoxmakers.org/images/f/f1/05907.pdf 3-in-1 Metal Shear/Brake/Roll]|| Machining || Yes || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/pcb_rob/ Rob] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| Arbor Press || Machining || No || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| 9" x 12" Surface Plate || Machining || No || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| 18" x 24" Surface Plate || Machining || No || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/billy/ Billy] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| 6" x 12" Surface Grinder || Machining || Yes || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/billy/ Billy] || Running<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==metalworking zone==<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
|-<br />
!style="width: 375px"| Equipment !!style="width: 100px;"| Zone !! Authorization !!style="width: 85px;"| Owner(s) !!style="width: 85px;"| Status<br />
|-<br />
| Pedestal Grinder || Metalworking || No || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| Bench Grinder || Metalworking || No || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| TIG Welder || Metalworking || Yes || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/pcb_rob/ Rob] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| ESAB MIG Welder || Metalworking || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| Klutch MIG Welder || Metalworking || Yes || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| Grey Plasma Cutter || Metalworking || Yes || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/pcb_rob/ Rob] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| Tubing Roller || Metalworking || No || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/pcb_rob/ Rob] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| Sand Blaster || Metalworking || No || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| 6" x 48" Belt Sander || Metalworking || No || Knox Makers || Running<br />
|-<br />
| 6" x 48" Belt Sander || Metalworking || No || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/billy/ Billy] || Running<br />
|-<br />
| Evolution Cut off Saw || Metalworking || Yes || Knox Makers|| Running<br />
|-<br />
| 240v Spot Welder|| Metalworking || No || [https://knoxmakers.org/member/pcb_rob/ Rob] || Running<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==electronics zone==<br />
<br />
signal generator<br />
<br />
oscilloscopes<br />
<br />
power supplies<br />
<br />
soldering workstations<br />
<br />
hot air rework station with vacuum pickup<br />
<br />
solder reflow oven<br />
<br />
==3D printing & scanning zone==<br />
<br />
RepRap Mendelmax 3D printer<br />
<br />
==Fiber Arts Zone==<br />
<br />
Normal and heavy duty sewing machines<br />
<br />
Sergers<br />
<br />
'''Embroidery Machine''' Authorization Required<br />
* ([[media:NQ1700_Embroidery_Machine_Manual.pdf|Manual]])<br />
* ([[media:Brother_Embroidery_Design_Guide.pdf|Built-in Fonts and Designs]])<br />
* additional free designs from Brother<br />
<br />
'''Brother Industrial sewing machine''' ([[media:Brother DB2-B755-3.pdf|Manual]]) Authorization Required<br />
<br />
Portable Long arm quilter (8" travel)<br />
<br />
Large Long arm quilter (coming soon)<br />
<br />
Large Quilting Frame<br />
* ([[media:Cloth Leaders.pdf|Cloth Leaders]])<br />
* ([[media:Idler Rail Accessory.pdf|Idler Rail]])<br />
Frame Assembly<br />
* ([[media:Quilting Frame Part 1 pg1-9.pdf|Pages 1-9]])<br />
* ([[media:Quilting Frame Part 2 pg10-17.pdf|Pages10-17]])<br />
* ([[media:Quilting Frame Part 3 pg18-25.pdf|Pages 18-25]])<br />
<br />
<br />
'''8 in 1 Heat Press''' Authorization Required<br />
* ([[media:8in1_Heat_Press Manual.pdf|Manual]])<br />
<br />
Irons/Iron Board and mats<br />
<br />
Variety of scissors and rotary cutting tools and mats<br />
<br />
Typical Notions for sewing, ie thread, Needles, pins, etc<br />
<br />
Crochet and Knitting needles<br />
<br />
Embroidery hoops<br />
<br />
Silohettes <br />
<br />
Variety of leather working tools<br />
<br />
==Arts & Crafts Zone==<br />
<br />
'''[[Vinyl Cutter]]'''<br />
<br />
'''Large Laminator'''<br />
<br />
'''Casting & Molding Minizone'''<br />
* Vacuum Pump<br />
* Vacuum Pot<br />
<br />
'''Glasswork & Stained Glass Minizone (coming soon)'''<br />
<br />
'''[[Large Format Printer]]'''<br />
<br />
==lasercutting zone==<br />
<br />
G.Weike LC1390 (1300x900) laser cutter<br />
<br />
* [[Import Laser|Import Process]]<br />
* [[File:Laser auth class slidedeck.pdf|Class slide deck]]<br />
* [[File:Laser tips and tricks handout.odt|Tips and Tricks]] [[File:Laser tips and tricks handout pdf.pdf|PDF]]</div>Dllh