Knox Makers Wiki - User contributions [en]

List of Events

2013-05-01T13:37:31Z

Riotnrrd: /* April */

This page lists the events we've hosted or attended so far. If you'd like to suggest an event, check out the [[Event Ideas]] page.

=2011=
*Arduino Workshop - Feb. 11 2011 (Pete)
*[[Blacksmithing at Abadonza Forge]] - April 2, 2011
*[[Road Trip to Hacker Consortium in Nashville]] - April 16, 2011
*Scuba Tech - May 27, 2011 (Pete)
*SNS Tour - June 24, 2011 (Syd)
*Programming and the Stack - July 7, 2011 (Pete)
*Making Chainmail - July 28, 2011 (Zach)
*Drupal Info - August 2, 2011 (Pete)
*Beer Making - August 16, 2011 (Doug)
*3D Printing Overview - September 3, 2011 (Andy)
*1 Year Anniversary Party - September 25, 2011
*Logo Design - October 4, 2011
*Enameling Workshop - October 20, 2011 (Sam)
*Soldering Workshop - November 17, 2011
*PID Controls with Arduino - December 15, 2011 (Doug)
=2012=
*GPG Workshop and Key Signing - January 3, 2012 (Pete)
*Touch Table MkII Talk - January 26, 2012 (Zach)
*KnoxMakers Social Night - January 28, 2012
*KnoxMakers Feb. Open Hack - February 7, 2012
*Contact Mike Workshop - February 19, 2012
*Presentation Demo Brainstorming - February 23, 2012
*Turn a Router into a Wireless Arduino Programmer - March 6, 2012
*Vacuum Forming Demo - March 22, 2012
*Space as in Hackerspace Brainstorming - April 3, 2012 (Sam)
*Soldering Workshop - April 19, 2012
*Getting Started with Arduino - May 1, 2012 (Sam)
*Zombie Apocalypse Preparedness - May 17, 2012 (Zach)
*'''Knox Makers opening party and move-in planning session - June 1, 2012'''
*Workbench Building - June 5, 2012 (Andy)
*Open Hack & Kyle's New Job Party - June 21, 2012
*LAN Party - July 10, 2012 (Pete)
*Mini Maker Faire Kingsport - July 15, 2012
*MIDI Demonstration - July 26, 2012 (Pete)
*RPG 101, pt 1 - August 1, 2012
*Raise Your Goblet of Rock - Rockband/Guitar Hero/Rocksmith party - August 3, 2012
*Fritzing an Arduino, pt 1 - August 7, 2012
*RPG 101, pt 2 - August 8, 2012
*RPG 101, pt 3 - August 15, 2012
*Fritzing an Arduino, pt 2 - August 16, 2012
*3D Printer Work Session - August 19, 2012
*RPG 101, pt 4 - August 22, 2012
*Grand Opening Planning Session, Part 1 - August 23, 2012
*Diplomacy! - August 26, 2012
*Grand Opening Planning Session, Part 2 - August 27, 2012
*RPG 101, pt 5 - August 29, 2012
*Machine Sewing for Hackers - September 4, 2012
*RPG 101, pt 6 - September 5, 2012
*Laser Testing & 3d Printing - September 8, 2012
*Grand Opening working session - September 10, 2012
*[EAC] Earn A Computer Project - kick-off meeting - September 12, 2012
*KMBI - Boat Launch - September 16, 2012
*RPG 101, pt 7 - September 19, 2012
*[[LinuxInstallFest]] - September 20, 2012
*Have locks will travel - September 25, 2012
*Grand Opening/ 2 Year Anniversary Party - September 29,2012
*Plaster Mold/AMMF Prep - October 2, 2012
*[EAC] Lesson Planning - October 3, 2012
*Atlanta Mini Maker Faire - October 6, 2012
*I'm running Linux! Now what? - October 17, 2012
*Touch Table Mk.II Software - October 18, 2012
*Laser Cutter Workgroup - October 22, 2012
*3D Printing 101 - October 23, 2012 (Notes: [[3D printer]])
*Fiber-Reactive Cloth Dyeing - October 27, 2012
*Sewing for Hackers, Continued - October 30, 2012
*KMBI Boatbuilding - November 1, 2012
*Stained Glass Workshop - November 3, 2012
*Soldering Workshop - November 6, 2012
*KMBI Boatbuilding - November 8, 2012
*KMBI Boatbuilding - November 15, 2012
*Leatherworking Workshop - November 15, 2012
*ORNL 3D Printer Tour - November 16, 2012
*Coding Workshop - November 26, 2012
*3D Modeling for 3D Printing - November 27, 2012
*KMBI Boatbuilding - November 29, 2012
*Miracle Fruit - December 4, 2012
*VW plant tour - December 7, 2012
*3D Printer Build-Off Options - December 11, 2012
*KMBI Boatbuilding - December 13, 2012
*Coding Workshop - December 19, 2012
*KMBI Boatbuilding - December 20, 2012
*KMBI Boatbuilding - December 27, 2012
=2013=
==January==
*01/09/2013 - Coding Workshop
*01/29/2013 - Crowdfunding with Kickstarter, guest presenter Mike Neel
==February==
*02/05/2013 - Arduino: From the Ground Up
*02/12/2013 - Arduino - A2D and Temperature Control
*02/16/2013 - 02/17/2013 - 3D Printer Buildoff at Hacker Consortium in Nashville
*02/19/2013 - [[Tech 2020 Lunch and Learn with Ellen Kern of Stand and Deliver]]

==March==
*03/02/2013 - Printer parts harvesting
*03/05/2013 - Arduino: Software
*03/12/2013 - Knox Makers 3D Printer training and orientation
*03/19/2013 - Arduino: Interfacing with Motors
*03/26/2013 - Stanford's 'Crash Course in Design Thinking'
*03/27/2013 - Inaugural 865 DefCon meeting

==April==
*04/02/2013 - Arduino: Hardware
*04/09/2013 - Members Special Meeting and Elections
*04/13/2013 - Stained Glass Workshop
*04/16/2013 - Introduction to Shapeoko and CNC
*04/23/2013 - Arduino: Wireless Communications
*04/24/2013 - PechaKucha: Knox Makers Presents!
*04/30/2013 - [https://www.dropbox.com/s/2cuy47rwhi267l8/Quad%20presentation.pptx Quadcopters, ZOMG!]

List of Events

2013-05-01T13:28:13Z

Riotnrrd: /* April */

List of Events

2013-05-01T13:28:00Z

Riotnrrd: /* March */

This page lists the events we've hosted or attended so far. If you'd like to suggest an event, check out the [[Event Ideas]] page.

=2011=
*Arduino Workshop - Feb. 11 2011 (Pete)
*[[Blacksmithing at Abadonza Forge]] - April 2, 2011
*[[Road Trip to Hacker Consortium in Nashville]] - April 16, 2011
*Scuba Tech - May 27, 2011 (Pete)
*SNS Tour - June 24, 2011 (Syd)
*Programming and the Stack - July 7, 2011 (Pete)
*Making Chainmail - July 28, 2011 (Zach)
*Drupal Info - August 2, 2011 (Pete)
*Beer Making - August 16, 2011 (Doug)
*3D Printing Overview - September 3, 2011 (Andy)
*1 Year Anniversary Party - September 25, 2011
*Logo Design - October 4, 2011
*Enameling Workshop - October 20, 2011 (Sam)
*Soldering Workshop - November 17, 2011
*PID Controls with Arduino - December 15, 2011 (Doug)
=2012=
*GPG Workshop and Key Signing - January 3, 2012 (Pete)
*Touch Table MkII Talk - January 26, 2012 (Zach)
*KnoxMakers Social Night - January 28, 2012
*KnoxMakers Feb. Open Hack - February 7, 2012
*Contact Mike Workshop - February 19, 2012
*Presentation Demo Brainstorming - February 23, 2012
*Turn a Router into a Wireless Arduino Programmer - March 6, 2012
*Vacuum Forming Demo - March 22, 2012
*Space as in Hackerspace Brainstorming - April 3, 2012 (Sam)
*Soldering Workshop - April 19, 2012
*Getting Started with Arduino - May 1, 2012 (Sam)
*Zombie Apocalypse Preparedness - May 17, 2012 (Zach)
*'''Knox Makers opening party and move-in planning session - June 1, 2012'''
*Workbench Building - June 5, 2012 (Andy)
*Open Hack & Kyle's New Job Party - June 21, 2012
*LAN Party - July 10, 2012 (Pete)
*Mini Maker Faire Kingsport - July 15, 2012
*MIDI Demonstration - July 26, 2012 (Pete)
*RPG 101, pt 1 - August 1, 2012
*Raise Your Goblet of Rock - Rockband/Guitar Hero/Rocksmith party - August 3, 2012
*Fritzing an Arduino, pt 1 - August 7, 2012
*RPG 101, pt 2 - August 8, 2012
*RPG 101, pt 3 - August 15, 2012
*Fritzing an Arduino, pt 2 - August 16, 2012
*3D Printer Work Session - August 19, 2012
*RPG 101, pt 4 - August 22, 2012
*Grand Opening Planning Session, Part 1 - August 23, 2012
*Diplomacy! - August 26, 2012
*Grand Opening Planning Session, Part 2 - August 27, 2012
*RPG 101, pt 5 - August 29, 2012
*Machine Sewing for Hackers - September 4, 2012
*RPG 101, pt 6 - September 5, 2012
*Laser Testing & 3d Printing - September 8, 2012
*Grand Opening working session - September 10, 2012
*[EAC] Earn A Computer Project - kick-off meeting - September 12, 2012
*KMBI - Boat Launch - September 16, 2012
*RPG 101, pt 7 - September 19, 2012
*[[LinuxInstallFest]] - September 20, 2012
*Have locks will travel - September 25, 2012
*Grand Opening/ 2 Year Anniversary Party - September 29,2012
*Plaster Mold/AMMF Prep - October 2, 2012
*[EAC] Lesson Planning - October 3, 2012
*Atlanta Mini Maker Faire - October 6, 2012
*I'm running Linux! Now what? - October 17, 2012
*Touch Table Mk.II Software - October 18, 2012
*Laser Cutter Workgroup - October 22, 2012
*3D Printing 101 - October 23, 2012 (Notes: [[3D printer]])
*Fiber-Reactive Cloth Dyeing - October 27, 2012
*Sewing for Hackers, Continued - October 30, 2012
*KMBI Boatbuilding - November 1, 2012
*Stained Glass Workshop - November 3, 2012
*Soldering Workshop - November 6, 2012
*KMBI Boatbuilding - November 8, 2012
*KMBI Boatbuilding - November 15, 2012
*Leatherworking Workshop - November 15, 2012
*ORNL 3D Printer Tour - November 16, 2012
*Coding Workshop - November 26, 2012
*3D Modeling for 3D Printing - November 27, 2012
*KMBI Boatbuilding - November 29, 2012
*Miracle Fruit - December 4, 2012
*VW plant tour - December 7, 2012
*3D Printer Build-Off Options - December 11, 2012
*KMBI Boatbuilding - December 13, 2012
*Coding Workshop - December 19, 2012
*KMBI Boatbuilding - December 20, 2012
*KMBI Boatbuilding - December 27, 2012
=2013=
==January==
*01/09/2013 - Coding Workshop
*01/29/2013 - Crowdfunding with Kickstarter, guest presenter Mike Neel
==February==
*02/05/2013 - Arduino: From the Ground Up
*02/12/2013 - Arduino - A2D and Temperature Control
*02/16/2013 - 02/17/2013 - 3D Printer Buildoff at Hacker Consortium in Nashville
*02/19/2013 - [[Tech 2020 Lunch and Learn with Ellen Kern of Stand and Deliver]]

==March==
*03/02/2013 - Printer parts harvesting
*03/05/2013 - Arduino: Software
*03/12/2013 - Knox Makers 3D Printer training and orientation
*03/19/2013 - Arduino: Interfacing with Motors
*03/26/2013 - Stanford's 'Crash Course in Design Thinking'
*03/27/2013 - Inaugural 865 DefCon meeting

==April==
04/02/2013 - Arduino: Hardware
04/09/2013 - Members Special Meeting and Elections
04/13/2013 - Stained Glass Workshop
04/16/2013 - Introduction to Shapeoko and CNC
04/23/2013 - Arduino: Wireless Communications
04/24/2013 - PechaKucha: Knox Makers Presents!
04/30/2013 - Quadcopters, ZOMG!

List of Events

2013-05-01T13:27:34Z

Riotnrrd: /* February */

This page lists the events we've hosted or attended so far. If you'd like to suggest an event, check out the [[Event Ideas]] page.

=2011=
*Arduino Workshop - Feb. 11 2011 (Pete)
*[[Blacksmithing at Abadonza Forge]] - April 2, 2011
*[[Road Trip to Hacker Consortium in Nashville]] - April 16, 2011
*Scuba Tech - May 27, 2011 (Pete)
*SNS Tour - June 24, 2011 (Syd)
*Programming and the Stack - July 7, 2011 (Pete)
*Making Chainmail - July 28, 2011 (Zach)
*Drupal Info - August 2, 2011 (Pete)
*Beer Making - August 16, 2011 (Doug)
*3D Printing Overview - September 3, 2011 (Andy)
*1 Year Anniversary Party - September 25, 2011
*Logo Design - October 4, 2011
*Enameling Workshop - October 20, 2011 (Sam)
*Soldering Workshop - November 17, 2011
*PID Controls with Arduino - December 15, 2011 (Doug)
=2012=
*GPG Workshop and Key Signing - January 3, 2012 (Pete)
*Touch Table MkII Talk - January 26, 2012 (Zach)
*KnoxMakers Social Night - January 28, 2012
*KnoxMakers Feb. Open Hack - February 7, 2012
*Contact Mike Workshop - February 19, 2012
*Presentation Demo Brainstorming - February 23, 2012
*Turn a Router into a Wireless Arduino Programmer - March 6, 2012
*Vacuum Forming Demo - March 22, 2012
*Space as in Hackerspace Brainstorming - April 3, 2012 (Sam)
*Soldering Workshop - April 19, 2012
*Getting Started with Arduino - May 1, 2012 (Sam)
*Zombie Apocalypse Preparedness - May 17, 2012 (Zach)
*'''Knox Makers opening party and move-in planning session - June 1, 2012'''
*Workbench Building - June 5, 2012 (Andy)
*Open Hack & Kyle's New Job Party - June 21, 2012
*LAN Party - July 10, 2012 (Pete)
*Mini Maker Faire Kingsport - July 15, 2012
*MIDI Demonstration - July 26, 2012 (Pete)
*RPG 101, pt 1 - August 1, 2012
*Raise Your Goblet of Rock - Rockband/Guitar Hero/Rocksmith party - August 3, 2012
*Fritzing an Arduino, pt 1 - August 7, 2012
*RPG 101, pt 2 - August 8, 2012
*RPG 101, pt 3 - August 15, 2012
*Fritzing an Arduino, pt 2 - August 16, 2012
*3D Printer Work Session - August 19, 2012
*RPG 101, pt 4 - August 22, 2012
*Grand Opening Planning Session, Part 1 - August 23, 2012
*Diplomacy! - August 26, 2012
*Grand Opening Planning Session, Part 2 - August 27, 2012
*RPG 101, pt 5 - August 29, 2012
*Machine Sewing for Hackers - September 4, 2012
*RPG 101, pt 6 - September 5, 2012
*Laser Testing & 3d Printing - September 8, 2012
*Grand Opening working session - September 10, 2012
*[EAC] Earn A Computer Project - kick-off meeting - September 12, 2012
*KMBI - Boat Launch - September 16, 2012
*RPG 101, pt 7 - September 19, 2012
*[[LinuxInstallFest]] - September 20, 2012
*Have locks will travel - September 25, 2012
*Grand Opening/ 2 Year Anniversary Party - September 29,2012
*Plaster Mold/AMMF Prep - October 2, 2012
*[EAC] Lesson Planning - October 3, 2012
*Atlanta Mini Maker Faire - October 6, 2012
*I'm running Linux! Now what? - October 17, 2012
*Touch Table Mk.II Software - October 18, 2012
*Laser Cutter Workgroup - October 22, 2012
*3D Printing 101 - October 23, 2012 (Notes: [[3D printer]])
*Fiber-Reactive Cloth Dyeing - October 27, 2012
*Sewing for Hackers, Continued - October 30, 2012
*KMBI Boatbuilding - November 1, 2012
*Stained Glass Workshop - November 3, 2012
*Soldering Workshop - November 6, 2012
*KMBI Boatbuilding - November 8, 2012
*KMBI Boatbuilding - November 15, 2012
*Leatherworking Workshop - November 15, 2012
*ORNL 3D Printer Tour - November 16, 2012
*Coding Workshop - November 26, 2012
*3D Modeling for 3D Printing - November 27, 2012
*KMBI Boatbuilding - November 29, 2012
*Miracle Fruit - December 4, 2012
*VW plant tour - December 7, 2012
*3D Printer Build-Off Options - December 11, 2012
*KMBI Boatbuilding - December 13, 2012
*Coding Workshop - December 19, 2012
*KMBI Boatbuilding - December 20, 2012
*KMBI Boatbuilding - December 27, 2012
=2013=
==January==
*01/09/2013 - Coding Workshop
*01/29/2013 - Crowdfunding with Kickstarter, guest presenter Mike Neel
==February==
*02/05/2013 - Arduino: From the Ground Up
*02/12/2013 - Arduino - A2D and Temperature Control
*02/16/2013 - 02/17/2013 - 3D Printer Buildoff at Hacker Consortium in Nashville
*02/19/2013 - [[Tech 2020 Lunch and Learn with Ellen Kern of Stand and Deliver]]

==March==
03/02/2013 - Printer parts harvesting
03/05/2013 - Arduino: Software
03/12/2013 - Knox Makers 3D Printer training and orientation
03/19/2013 - Arduino: Interfacing with Motors
03/26/2013 - Stanford's 'Crash Course in Design Thinking'
03/27/2013 - Inaugural 865 DefCon meeting

==April==
04/02/2013 - Arduino: Hardware
04/09/2013 - Members Special Meeting and Elections
04/13/2013 - Stained Glass Workshop
04/16/2013 - Introduction to Shapeoko and CNC
04/23/2013 - Arduino: Wireless Communications
04/24/2013 - PechaKucha: Knox Makers Presents!
04/30/2013 - Quadcopters, ZOMG!

Organization

2013-03-27T15:25:58Z

Riotnrrd: /* Candidates for Removal */

==Candidates for Removal==
Clockwise from the front door:
*Server Rack - Shane's view is this is utterly unnecessary. Get cloud servers for projects. Physical hardware is hot, powersucker, dirty, takes footprint
**Inside is a projector, toolboxes, laptops, shit on top including multiple computers. We already have 4 space computers... we don't need more.
*Piles of buckets and dirty rags in front of the sink
*3+ broken coffee makers in a plastic tub
*Lockers are wasteful of space and inefficient in use.
*Plates / napkins / water / food storage is a mess and needs to be cleared out
*Computer desk with 2 space computers and 3 monitors need to go away (unused)
*Desks along the wall covered with build items for 3D printing construction.
*2 more space computers and monitors generally unused
*Workbench with piles of shit under it including 2+ ancient monitors, broken 3D printer never used, tubs of personal storage
*Shitty table with holes in it
*Back table has piles of stuff under it... cardboard boxes empty and full of shit, old heaters, plywood scraps and stuff, boxes of bolts, electronics components
*Back wall... OMFG where to start? Cant get to tools because of shit in front of them. Have these tools ever been used? (bandsaw, planer, miter saw etc). *Multiple cabinets of SHIT. THrow it out. Stacks of materials / scrap wood / flat panels
*Table of machine tools not used or working (mini lathe, drill press?)
*Printer enclosure
*ClusterPuck project... timeline?

Organization

2013-03-27T15:25:31Z

Riotnrrd: /* Candidates for Removal */

==Candidates for Removal==
Clockwise from the front door:
*Server Rack - Shane's view is this is utterly unnecessary. Get cloud servers for projects. Physical hardware is hot, powersucker, dirty, takes footprint
**Inside is a projector, toolboxes, laptops, shit on top including multiple computers. We already have 4 space computers... we don't need more.
*Piles of buckets and dirty rags in front of the sink
*3+ broken coffee makers in a plastic tub
*Lockers are wasteful of space and inefficient in use.
Plates / napkins / water / food storage is a mess and needs to be cleared out
*Computer desk with 2 space computers and 3 monitors need to go away (unused)
*Desks along the wall covered with build items for 3D printing construction.
*2 more space computers and monitors generally unused
*Workbench with piles of shit under it including 2+ ancient monitors, broken 3D printer never used, tubs of personal storage
*Shitty table with holes in it
*Back table has piles of stuff under it... cardboard boxes empty and full of shit, old heaters, plywood scraps and stuff, boxes of bolts, electronics components
*Back wall... OMFG where to start? Cant get to tools because of shit in front of them. Have these tools ever been used? (bandsaw, planer, miter saw etc). *Multiple cabinets of SHIT. THrow it out. Stacks of materials / scrap wood / flat panels
*Table of machine tools not used or working (mini lathe, drill press?)
*Printer enclosure
*ClusterPuck project... timeline?

Organization

2013-03-27T15:25:11Z

Riotnrrd: Created page with "==Candidates for Removal== Clockwise from the front door: *Server Rack - Shane's view is this is utterly unnecessary. Get cloud servers for projects. Physical hardware is hot, po..."

==Candidates for Removal==
Clockwise from the front door:
*Server Rack - Shane's view is this is utterly unnecessary. Get cloud servers for projects. Physical hardware is hot, powersucker, dirty, takes footprint
Inside is a projector, toolboxes, laptops, shit on top including multiple computers. We already have 4 space computers... we don't need more.
*Piles of buckets and dirty rags in front of the sink
*3+ broken coffee makers in a plastic tub
*Lockers are wasteful of space and inefficient in use.
Plates / napkins / water / food storage is a mess and needs to be cleared out
*Computer desk with 2 space computers and 3 monitors need to go away (unused)
*Desks along the wall covered with build items for 3D printing construction.
*2 more space computers and monitors generally unused
*Workbench with piles of shit under it including 2+ ancient monitors, broken 3D printer never used, tubs of personal storage
*Shitty table with holes in it
*Back table has piles of stuff under it... cardboard boxes empty and full of shit, old heaters, plywood scraps and stuff, boxes of bolts, electronics components
*Back wall... OMFG where to start? Cant get to tools because of shit in front of them. Have these tools ever been used? (bandsaw, planer, miter saw etc). *Multiple cabinets of SHIT. THrow it out. Stacks of materials / scrap wood / flat panels
*Table of machine tools not used or working (mini lathe, drill press?)
*Printer enclosure
*ClusterPuck project... timeline?

Group 3D Printer

2013-03-14T17:58:02Z

Riotnrrd: /* Software */

==Overview==
The group has purchased and assembled a Prusa Mendel 3D printer. This page gives some instructions on its use

==Mechanicals and Electronics==
The Prusa Mendel is a type of RepRap printer http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Main_Page . It uses threaded rods for the frame, with a total of 5 stepper motors... 1 for X, Y, and the extruder, and 2 for the Z axis. Our version uses a RAMPS v1.4 board, with a SD card reader and LED display panel for headless printing.

==Software==
There are 3 things you need to acquire in order to use the printer: slicing software which generates the GCODE (slic3r), printer controller software that measures temperatures and sends code to the RAMPS board (printrun / pronterface), and custom configuration software we have created specifically for this project (on github).
===slic3r===
You can acquire slic3r here: http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r takes STL files as input. Essentially what it does is take the STL solid and split it into a series of Z axis sections. Each section becomes a GCODE profile, which is used by the printer to make the objects.
You can drop multiple objects in the Plater to print many at the same time, or you can rotate, scale, or duplicate items in the Plater as well.
Important settings:
*Print Settings
**Layers and Perimeters -> Layer height default should be .36 mm. .3 to .4 works, maybe smaller down to .2 if everything is properly calibrated.
**Infill -> Fill density should be between .1 and .5, Fill pattern rectilinear or honeycomb recommended
*Filament Settings
**If you change filament, measure carefully in 3 places and average the results. Put this in Filament -> Diameter
Once your settings are good and your part added to the Plater, click Export GCode to generate your gcode, which is then loaded into pronterface.

===Printrun===
Printrun is described here: http://reprap.org/wiki/Printrun Printrun (specifically, pronterface) connects to the printer, controls the motors, measures the temperatures, and sends the GCODE to the board for interpretation.
===Configuration Files===
Configuration files are very specific to each printer, and each type of filament. If you change printers, and sometimes if you change filaments, you will need to tweak the slic3r configuration files. Most likely, you won't need the firmware / Marlin config for normal operations. To get the configs, either ask someone at the space, or get them from here https://github.com/KnoxMakers/3d_print.git

==Procedure==
===Create the GCODE===
Open up slic3r. Go to File->Load Config. Load the above config. Drop your STL file in slic3r. Adjust settings as needed (default fine for most prints). Export G-Code to save it for use in pronterface software.
===Connect to the Printer===
Load Printer Interface (pronterface) software. Connect to printer... You may need to select the port to use.
===Load the GCODE into pronterface===
===Preheat the bed===
Go ahead and set the bed temperature to 130C (or whatever you're using), before homing. It takes a while, this will save you time.

===Home the X and Y axes===
In pronterface in the top left corner, near the big concentric circles, go ahead and hit the X home and Y home buttons. The mechanical endstops work for this reasonably well.

===Home the Z axis===
Here we get into some of the tedium / art of printing. Mechanical endstops get close but don't have the required precision (like .1 mm). What you will want to do is go ahead and hit Z home button. Then, click to raise the Z axis by .1 mm until you JUST see the head lift off the glass. Then, click down .1 mm until you are JUST ABOVE or JUST TOUCHING the glass. You need a clean extruder and a level bed for this to work well, but you'll find with some practice what is 'acceptable'. After you find your physical Z, you want to tell pronterface that the head is now actually at Z zero. The gcode command for this is
G92 Z0

===First Layer Adhesion===
First layer can make or break your prints. You want something that looks a little squished, but not flat. Completely round is bad, and completely flat is bad. You want something in between. If your skirt isn't printing right, STOP the print, rehome Z, and then restart.

==Special Tips==
===Hairspray for better adhesion===
We have a super secret, super effective method to get ABS to stick to glass: Garnier Fructis Bamboo Extract Shampoo, extra hold. This stuff is STICKY. I recommend to reapply when there are VISIBLY MISSING places on the glass... the hairspray is somewhat bumpy or translucent... whereas clear glass looks like... clear glass. If there are big bare spots in the middle of the plate (or otherwise), CAREFULLY remove the glass, clean it with WARM or HOT water (cold won't remove the gunk), then reapply 3 light coats of spray, letting each dry in between.
===SD Card printing===
If you want to use headless mode, drop your gcode in a folder on the SDCARD in the reader, then using the dial, navigate to the Print option, then select your file, and press the dial in. It should start printing.

===Levelling the bed===
Levelling the bed is super important and sort of a pain. It's pretty darned level now. What makes it more challenging is it's 3 point levelling instead of 4. I recommend you leave this alone, but you can tell by moving to X, Y, and Z home, then moving the head around with pronterface to each corner (+180 mm X and Y) to verify the level. Ideally you want to test with a shim, something like 2 sheets of paper, or a leaf gauge.

==Resources and Links==
Space Notes:
*Adan's Printer Notes: [[Adan%27s_3D_printer_notes]]
*Shane's Printer Notes: [[Shane%27s_printer_notes]]
Good Internet Links
*http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html
*http://reprap.org

==LEGACY DESCRIPTION (needs to be cleaned or deleted)==

The group is pooling resources to create a Makerspace owned 3D printer. Andronicus is leading the efforts, with a build goal deadline of 1/15

==Current Status==
As of 02/19/2013, the space printer is printing parts with some degree of accuracy. Hardware and software changes frequently.

==Specifications==

==Financial Contributions==
* Adan
* Dr. Strangegun
* Issac
* Sam
* Shane

==Things to Buy==
===Electronics===
* Full electronics http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=61_66&product_id=70 $198 + $20 shipping - ORDERED
* Power supply http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009EIANT2/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00 $26.96 + $5.44 shipping
* Hot End https://www.hotends.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=88 $62.49 + $3.75 shipping
* 5x Stepper Motors https://www.lulzbot.com/?q=products/nema-17-stepper-motors $87.50 + $12.00 shipping - ORDERED

Group 3D Printer

2013-03-14T17:56:31Z

Riotnrrd: /* Resources and Links */

==Overview==
The group has purchased and assembled a Prusa Mendel 3D printer. This page gives some instructions on its use

==Mechanicals and Electronics==
The Prusa Mendel is a type of RepRap printer http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Main_Page . It uses threaded rods for the frame, with a total of 5 stepper motors... 1 for X, Y, and the extruder, and 2 for the Z axis. Our version uses a RAMPS v1.4 board, with a SD card reader and LED display panel for headless printing.

==Software==
There are 3 things you need to acquire in order to use the printer: slicing software which generates the GCODE, printer controller software that measures temperatures and sends code to the RAMPS board, and custom configuration software we have created specifically for this project.
===slic3r===
You can acquire slic3r here: http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r takes STL files as input. Essentially what it does is take the STL solid and split it into a series of Z axis sections. Each section becomes a GCODE profile, which is used by the printer to make the objects.
You can drop multiple objects in the Plater to print many at the same time, or you can rotate, scale, or duplicate items in the Plater as well.
Important settings:
*Print Settings
**Layers and Perimeters -> Layer height default should be .36 mm. .3 to .4 works, maybe smaller down to .2 if everything is properly calibrated.
**Infill -> Fill density should be between .1 and .5, Fill pattern rectilinear or honeycomb recommended
*Filament Settings
**If you change filament, measure carefully in 3 places and average the results. Put this in Filament -> Diameter
Once your settings are good and your part added to the Plater, click Export GCode to generate your gcode, which is then loaded into pronterface.

===Printrun===
Printrun is described here: http://reprap.org/wiki/Printrun Printrun (specifically, pronterface) connects to the printer, controls the motors, measures the temperatures, and sends the GCODE to the board for interpretation.
===Configuration Files===
Configuration files are very specific to each printer, and each type of filament. If you change printers, and sometimes if you change filaments, you will need to tweak the slic3r configuration files. Most likely, you won't need the firmware / Marlin config for normal operations. To get the configs, either ask someone at the space, or get them from here (requires GIT) https://github.com/KnoxMakers/3d_print.git

==Procedure==
===Create the GCODE===
Open up slic3r. Go to File->Load Config. Load the above config. Drop your STL file in slic3r. Adjust settings as needed (default fine for most prints). Export G-Code to save it for use in pronterface software.
===Connect to the Printer===
Load Printer Interface (pronterface) software. Connect to printer... You may need to select the port to use.
===Load the GCODE into pronterface===
===Preheat the bed===
Go ahead and set the bed temperature to 130C (or whatever you're using), before homing. It takes a while, this will save you time.

===Home the X and Y axes===
In pronterface in the top left corner, near the big concentric circles, go ahead and hit the X home and Y home buttons. The mechanical endstops work for this reasonably well.

===Home the Z axis===
Here we get into some of the tedium / art of printing. Mechanical endstops get close but don't have the required precision (like .1 mm). What you will want to do is go ahead and hit Z home button. Then, click to raise the Z axis by .1 mm until you JUST see the head lift off the glass. Then, click down .1 mm until you are JUST ABOVE or JUST TOUCHING the glass. You need a clean extruder and a level bed for this to work well, but you'll find with some practice what is 'acceptable'. After you find your physical Z, you want to tell pronterface that the head is now actually at Z zero. The gcode command for this is
G92 Z0

===First Layer Adhesion===
First layer can make or break your prints. You want something that looks a little squished, but not flat. Completely round is bad, and completely flat is bad. You want something in between. If your skirt isn't printing right, STOP the print, rehome Z, and then restart.

==Special Tips==
===Hairspray for better adhesion===
We have a super secret, super effective method to get ABS to stick to glass: Garnier Fructis Bamboo Extract Shampoo, extra hold. This stuff is STICKY. I recommend to reapply when there are VISIBLY MISSING places on the glass... the hairspray is somewhat bumpy or translucent... whereas clear glass looks like... clear glass. If there are big bare spots in the middle of the plate (or otherwise), CAREFULLY remove the glass, clean it with WARM or HOT water (cold won't remove the gunk), then reapply 3 light coats of spray, letting each dry in between.
===SD Card printing===
If you want to use headless mode, drop your gcode in a folder on the SDCARD in the reader, then using the dial, navigate to the Print option, then select your file, and press the dial in. It should start printing.

===Levelling the bed===
Levelling the bed is super important and sort of a pain. It's pretty darned level now. What makes it more challenging is it's 3 point levelling instead of 4. I recommend you leave this alone, but you can tell by moving to X, Y, and Z home, then moving the head around with pronterface to each corner (+180 mm X and Y) to verify the level. Ideally you want to test with a shim, something like 2 sheets of paper, or a leaf gauge.

==Resources and Links==
Space Notes:
*Adan's Printer Notes: [[Adan%27s_3D_printer_notes]]
*Shane's Printer Notes: [[Shane%27s_printer_notes]]
Good Internet Links
*http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html
*http://reprap.org

==LEGACY DESCRIPTION (needs to be cleaned or deleted)==

The group is pooling resources to create a Makerspace owned 3D printer. Andronicus is leading the efforts, with a build goal deadline of 1/15

==Current Status==
As of 02/19/2013, the space printer is printing parts with some degree of accuracy. Hardware and software changes frequently.

==Specifications==

==Financial Contributions==
* Adan
* Dr. Strangegun
* Issac
* Sam
* Shane

==Things to Buy==
===Electronics===
* Full electronics http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=61_66&product_id=70 $198 + $20 shipping - ORDERED
* Power supply http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009EIANT2/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00 $26.96 + $5.44 shipping
* Hot End https://www.hotends.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=88 $62.49 + $3.75 shipping
* 5x Stepper Motors https://www.lulzbot.com/?q=products/nema-17-stepper-motors $87.50 + $12.00 shipping - ORDERED

Group 3D Printer

2013-03-14T17:55:00Z

Riotnrrd: /* Levelling the bed */

==Overview==
The group has purchased and assembled a Prusa Mendel 3D printer. This page gives some instructions on its use

==Mechanicals and Electronics==
The Prusa Mendel is a type of RepRap printer http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Main_Page . It uses threaded rods for the frame, with a total of 5 stepper motors... 1 for X, Y, and the extruder, and 2 for the Z axis. Our version uses a RAMPS v1.4 board, with a SD card reader and LED display panel for headless printing.

==Software==
There are 3 things you need to acquire in order to use the printer: slicing software which generates the GCODE, printer controller software that measures temperatures and sends code to the RAMPS board, and custom configuration software we have created specifically for this project.
===slic3r===
You can acquire slic3r here: http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r takes STL files as input. Essentially what it does is take the STL solid and split it into a series of Z axis sections. Each section becomes a GCODE profile, which is used by the printer to make the objects.
You can drop multiple objects in the Plater to print many at the same time, or you can rotate, scale, or duplicate items in the Plater as well.
Important settings:
*Print Settings
**Layers and Perimeters -> Layer height default should be .36 mm. .3 to .4 works, maybe smaller down to .2 if everything is properly calibrated.
**Infill -> Fill density should be between .1 and .5, Fill pattern rectilinear or honeycomb recommended
*Filament Settings
**If you change filament, measure carefully in 3 places and average the results. Put this in Filament -> Diameter
Once your settings are good and your part added to the Plater, click Export GCode to generate your gcode, which is then loaded into pronterface.

===Printrun===
Printrun is described here: http://reprap.org/wiki/Printrun Printrun (specifically, pronterface) connects to the printer, controls the motors, measures the temperatures, and sends the GCODE to the board for interpretation.
===Configuration Files===
Configuration files are very specific to each printer, and each type of filament. If you change printers, and sometimes if you change filaments, you will need to tweak the slic3r configuration files. Most likely, you won't need the firmware / Marlin config for normal operations. To get the configs, either ask someone at the space, or get them from here (requires GIT) https://github.com/KnoxMakers/3d_print.git

==Procedure==
===Create the GCODE===
Open up slic3r. Go to File->Load Config. Load the above config. Drop your STL file in slic3r. Adjust settings as needed (default fine for most prints). Export G-Code to save it for use in pronterface software.
===Connect to the Printer===
Load Printer Interface (pronterface) software. Connect to printer... You may need to select the port to use.
===Load the GCODE into pronterface===
===Preheat the bed===
Go ahead and set the bed temperature to 130C (or whatever you're using), before homing. It takes a while, this will save you time.

===Home the X and Y axes===
In pronterface in the top left corner, near the big concentric circles, go ahead and hit the X home and Y home buttons. The mechanical endstops work for this reasonably well.

===Home the Z axis===
Here we get into some of the tedium / art of printing. Mechanical endstops get close but don't have the required precision (like .1 mm). What you will want to do is go ahead and hit Z home button. Then, click to raise the Z axis by .1 mm until you JUST see the head lift off the glass. Then, click down .1 mm until you are JUST ABOVE or JUST TOUCHING the glass. You need a clean extruder and a level bed for this to work well, but you'll find with some practice what is 'acceptable'. After you find your physical Z, you want to tell pronterface that the head is now actually at Z zero. The gcode command for this is
G92 Z0

===First Layer Adhesion===
First layer can make or break your prints. You want something that looks a little squished, but not flat. Completely round is bad, and completely flat is bad. You want something in between. If your skirt isn't printing right, STOP the print, rehome Z, and then restart.

==Special Tips==
===Hairspray for better adhesion===
We have a super secret, super effective method to get ABS to stick to glass: Garnier Fructis Bamboo Extract Shampoo, extra hold. This stuff is STICKY. I recommend to reapply when there are VISIBLY MISSING places on the glass... the hairspray is somewhat bumpy or translucent... whereas clear glass looks like... clear glass. If there are big bare spots in the middle of the plate (or otherwise), CAREFULLY remove the glass, clean it with WARM or HOT water (cold won't remove the gunk), then reapply 3 light coats of spray, letting each dry in between.
===SD Card printing===
If you want to use headless mode, drop your gcode in a folder on the SDCARD in the reader, then using the dial, navigate to the Print option, then select your file, and press the dial in. It should start printing.

===Levelling the bed===
Levelling the bed is super important and sort of a pain. It's pretty darned level now. What makes it more challenging is it's 3 point levelling instead of 4. I recommend you leave this alone, but you can tell by moving to X, Y, and Z home, then moving the head around with pronterface to each corner (+180 mm X and Y) to verify the level. Ideally you want to test with a shim, something like 2 sheets of paper, or a leaf gauge.

==Resources and Links==
*Adan's Printer Notes: [[Adan%27s_3D_printer_notes]]
*Shane's Printer Notes: [[Shane%27s_printer_notes]]

==LEGACY DESCRIPTION (needs to be cleaned or deleted)==

The group is pooling resources to create a Makerspace owned 3D printer. Andronicus is leading the efforts, with a build goal deadline of 1/15

==Current Status==
As of 02/19/2013, the space printer is printing parts with some degree of accuracy. Hardware and software changes frequently.

==Specifications==

==Financial Contributions==
* Adan
* Dr. Strangegun
* Issac
* Sam
* Shane

==Things to Buy==
===Electronics===
* Full electronics http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=61_66&product_id=70 $198 + $20 shipping - ORDERED
* Power supply http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009EIANT2/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00 $26.96 + $5.44 shipping
* Hot End https://www.hotends.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=88 $62.49 + $3.75 shipping
* 5x Stepper Motors https://www.lulzbot.com/?q=products/nema-17-stepper-motors $87.50 + $12.00 shipping - ORDERED

Group 3D Printer

2013-03-14T17:53:29Z

Riotnrrd: /* Hairspray for better adhesion */

==Overview==
The group has purchased and assembled a Prusa Mendel 3D printer. This page gives some instructions on its use

==Mechanicals and Electronics==
The Prusa Mendel is a type of RepRap printer http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Main_Page . It uses threaded rods for the frame, with a total of 5 stepper motors... 1 for X, Y, and the extruder, and 2 for the Z axis. Our version uses a RAMPS v1.4 board, with a SD card reader and LED display panel for headless printing.

==Software==
There are 3 things you need to acquire in order to use the printer: slicing software which generates the GCODE, printer controller software that measures temperatures and sends code to the RAMPS board, and custom configuration software we have created specifically for this project.
===slic3r===
You can acquire slic3r here: http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r takes STL files as input. Essentially what it does is take the STL solid and split it into a series of Z axis sections. Each section becomes a GCODE profile, which is used by the printer to make the objects.
You can drop multiple objects in the Plater to print many at the same time, or you can rotate, scale, or duplicate items in the Plater as well.
Important settings:
*Print Settings
**Layers and Perimeters -> Layer height default should be .36 mm. .3 to .4 works, maybe smaller down to .2 if everything is properly calibrated.
**Infill -> Fill density should be between .1 and .5, Fill pattern rectilinear or honeycomb recommended
*Filament Settings
**If you change filament, measure carefully in 3 places and average the results. Put this in Filament -> Diameter
Once your settings are good and your part added to the Plater, click Export GCode to generate your gcode, which is then loaded into pronterface.

===Printrun===
Printrun is described here: http://reprap.org/wiki/Printrun Printrun (specifically, pronterface) connects to the printer, controls the motors, measures the temperatures, and sends the GCODE to the board for interpretation.
===Configuration Files===
Configuration files are very specific to each printer, and each type of filament. If you change printers, and sometimes if you change filaments, you will need to tweak the slic3r configuration files. Most likely, you won't need the firmware / Marlin config for normal operations. To get the configs, either ask someone at the space, or get them from here (requires GIT) https://github.com/KnoxMakers/3d_print.git

==Procedure==
===Create the GCODE===
Open up slic3r. Go to File->Load Config. Load the above config. Drop your STL file in slic3r. Adjust settings as needed (default fine for most prints). Export G-Code to save it for use in pronterface software.
===Connect to the Printer===
Load Printer Interface (pronterface) software. Connect to printer... You may need to select the port to use.
===Load the GCODE into pronterface===
===Preheat the bed===
Go ahead and set the bed temperature to 130C (or whatever you're using), before homing. It takes a while, this will save you time.

===Home the X and Y axes===
In pronterface in the top left corner, near the big concentric circles, go ahead and hit the X home and Y home buttons. The mechanical endstops work for this reasonably well.

===Home the Z axis===
Here we get into some of the tedium / art of printing. Mechanical endstops get close but don't have the required precision (like .1 mm). What you will want to do is go ahead and hit Z home button. Then, click to raise the Z axis by .1 mm until you JUST see the head lift off the glass. Then, click down .1 mm until you are JUST ABOVE or JUST TOUCHING the glass. You need a clean extruder and a level bed for this to work well, but you'll find with some practice what is 'acceptable'. After you find your physical Z, you want to tell pronterface that the head is now actually at Z zero. The gcode command for this is
G92 Z0

===First Layer Adhesion===
First layer can make or break your prints. You want something that looks a little squished, but not flat. Completely round is bad, and completely flat is bad. You want something in between. If your skirt isn't printing right, STOP the print, rehome Z, and then restart.

==Special Tips==
===Hairspray for better adhesion===
We have a super secret, super effective method to get ABS to stick to glass: Garnier Fructis Bamboo Extract Shampoo, extra hold. This stuff is STICKY. I recommend to reapply when there are VISIBLY MISSING places on the glass... the hairspray is somewhat bumpy or translucent... whereas clear glass looks like... clear glass. If there are big bare spots in the middle of the plate (or otherwise), CAREFULLY remove the glass, clean it with WARM or HOT water (cold won't remove the gunk), then reapply 3 light coats of spray, letting each dry in between.
===SD Card printing===
If you want to use headless mode, drop your gcode in a folder on the SDCARD in the reader, then using the dial, navigate to the Print option, then select your file, and press the dial in. It should start printing.

===Levelling the bed===

==Resources and Links==
*Adan's Printer Notes: [[Adan%27s_3D_printer_notes]]
*Shane's Printer Notes: [[Shane%27s_printer_notes]]

==LEGACY DESCRIPTION (needs to be cleaned or deleted)==

The group is pooling resources to create a Makerspace owned 3D printer. Andronicus is leading the efforts, with a build goal deadline of 1/15

==Current Status==
As of 02/19/2013, the space printer is printing parts with some degree of accuracy. Hardware and software changes frequently.

==Specifications==

==Financial Contributions==
* Adan
* Dr. Strangegun
* Issac
* Sam
* Shane

==Things to Buy==
===Electronics===
* Full electronics http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=61_66&product_id=70 $198 + $20 shipping - ORDERED
* Power supply http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009EIANT2/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00 $26.96 + $5.44 shipping
* Hot End https://www.hotends.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=88 $62.49 + $3.75 shipping
* 5x Stepper Motors https://www.lulzbot.com/?q=products/nema-17-stepper-motors $87.50 + $12.00 shipping - ORDERED

Group 3D Printer

2013-03-14T17:50:54Z

Riotnrrd: /* First Layer Adhesion */

==Overview==
The group has purchased and assembled a Prusa Mendel 3D printer. This page gives some instructions on its use

==Mechanicals and Electronics==
The Prusa Mendel is a type of RepRap printer http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Main_Page . It uses threaded rods for the frame, with a total of 5 stepper motors... 1 for X, Y, and the extruder, and 2 for the Z axis. Our version uses a RAMPS v1.4 board, with a SD card reader and LED display panel for headless printing.

==Software==
There are 3 things you need to acquire in order to use the printer: slicing software which generates the GCODE, printer controller software that measures temperatures and sends code to the RAMPS board, and custom configuration software we have created specifically for this project.
===slic3r===
You can acquire slic3r here: http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r takes STL files as input. Essentially what it does is take the STL solid and split it into a series of Z axis sections. Each section becomes a GCODE profile, which is used by the printer to make the objects.
You can drop multiple objects in the Plater to print many at the same time, or you can rotate, scale, or duplicate items in the Plater as well.
Important settings:
*Print Settings
**Layers and Perimeters -> Layer height default should be .36 mm. .3 to .4 works, maybe smaller down to .2 if everything is properly calibrated.
**Infill -> Fill density should be between .1 and .5, Fill pattern rectilinear or honeycomb recommended
*Filament Settings
**If you change filament, measure carefully in 3 places and average the results. Put this in Filament -> Diameter
Once your settings are good and your part added to the Plater, click Export GCode to generate your gcode, which is then loaded into pronterface.

===Printrun===
Printrun is described here: http://reprap.org/wiki/Printrun Printrun (specifically, pronterface) connects to the printer, controls the motors, measures the temperatures, and sends the GCODE to the board for interpretation.
===Configuration Files===
Configuration files are very specific to each printer, and each type of filament. If you change printers, and sometimes if you change filaments, you will need to tweak the slic3r configuration files. Most likely, you won't need the firmware / Marlin config for normal operations. To get the configs, either ask someone at the space, or get them from here (requires GIT) https://github.com/KnoxMakers/3d_print.git

==Procedure==
===Create the GCODE===
Open up slic3r. Go to File->Load Config. Load the above config. Drop your STL file in slic3r. Adjust settings as needed (default fine for most prints). Export G-Code to save it for use in pronterface software.
===Connect to the Printer===
Load Printer Interface (pronterface) software. Connect to printer... You may need to select the port to use.
===Load the GCODE into pronterface===
===Preheat the bed===
Go ahead and set the bed temperature to 130C (or whatever you're using), before homing. It takes a while, this will save you time.

===Home the X and Y axes===
In pronterface in the top left corner, near the big concentric circles, go ahead and hit the X home and Y home buttons. The mechanical endstops work for this reasonably well.

===Home the Z axis===
Here we get into some of the tedium / art of printing. Mechanical endstops get close but don't have the required precision (like .1 mm). What you will want to do is go ahead and hit Z home button. Then, click to raise the Z axis by .1 mm until you JUST see the head lift off the glass. Then, click down .1 mm until you are JUST ABOVE or JUST TOUCHING the glass. You need a clean extruder and a level bed for this to work well, but you'll find with some practice what is 'acceptable'. After you find your physical Z, you want to tell pronterface that the head is now actually at Z zero. The gcode command for this is
G92 Z0

===First Layer Adhesion===
First layer can make or break your prints. You want something that looks a little squished, but not flat. Completely round is bad, and completely flat is bad. You want something in between. If your skirt isn't printing right, STOP the print, rehome Z, and then restart.

==Special Tips==
===Hairspray for better adhesion===
===SD Card printing
===Levelling the bed===

==Resources and Links==
*Adan's Printer Notes: [[Adan%27s_3D_printer_notes]]
*Shane's Printer Notes: [[Shane%27s_printer_notes]]

==LEGACY DESCRIPTION (needs to be cleaned or deleted)==

The group is pooling resources to create a Makerspace owned 3D printer. Andronicus is leading the efforts, with a build goal deadline of 1/15

==Current Status==
As of 02/19/2013, the space printer is printing parts with some degree of accuracy. Hardware and software changes frequently.

==Specifications==

==Financial Contributions==
* Adan
* Dr. Strangegun
* Issac
* Sam
* Shane

==Things to Buy==
===Electronics===
* Full electronics http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=61_66&product_id=70 $198 + $20 shipping - ORDERED
* Power supply http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009EIANT2/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00 $26.96 + $5.44 shipping
* Hot End https://www.hotends.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=88 $62.49 + $3.75 shipping
* 5x Stepper Motors https://www.lulzbot.com/?q=products/nema-17-stepper-motors $87.50 + $12.00 shipping - ORDERED

Group 3D Printer

2013-03-14T17:49:36Z

Riotnrrd: /* Home the Z axis */

==Overview==
The group has purchased and assembled a Prusa Mendel 3D printer. This page gives some instructions on its use

==Mechanicals and Electronics==
The Prusa Mendel is a type of RepRap printer http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Main_Page . It uses threaded rods for the frame, with a total of 5 stepper motors... 1 for X, Y, and the extruder, and 2 for the Z axis. Our version uses a RAMPS v1.4 board, with a SD card reader and LED display panel for headless printing.

==Software==
There are 3 things you need to acquire in order to use the printer: slicing software which generates the GCODE, printer controller software that measures temperatures and sends code to the RAMPS board, and custom configuration software we have created specifically for this project.
===slic3r===
You can acquire slic3r here: http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r takes STL files as input. Essentially what it does is take the STL solid and split it into a series of Z axis sections. Each section becomes a GCODE profile, which is used by the printer to make the objects.
You can drop multiple objects in the Plater to print many at the same time, or you can rotate, scale, or duplicate items in the Plater as well.
Important settings:
*Print Settings
**Layers and Perimeters -> Layer height default should be .36 mm. .3 to .4 works, maybe smaller down to .2 if everything is properly calibrated.
**Infill -> Fill density should be between .1 and .5, Fill pattern rectilinear or honeycomb recommended
*Filament Settings
**If you change filament, measure carefully in 3 places and average the results. Put this in Filament -> Diameter
Once your settings are good and your part added to the Plater, click Export GCode to generate your gcode, which is then loaded into pronterface.

===Printrun===
Printrun is described here: http://reprap.org/wiki/Printrun Printrun (specifically, pronterface) connects to the printer, controls the motors, measures the temperatures, and sends the GCODE to the board for interpretation.
===Configuration Files===
Configuration files are very specific to each printer, and each type of filament. If you change printers, and sometimes if you change filaments, you will need to tweak the slic3r configuration files. Most likely, you won't need the firmware / Marlin config for normal operations. To get the configs, either ask someone at the space, or get them from here (requires GIT) https://github.com/KnoxMakers/3d_print.git

==Procedure==
===Create the GCODE===
Open up slic3r. Go to File->Load Config. Load the above config. Drop your STL file in slic3r. Adjust settings as needed (default fine for most prints). Export G-Code to save it for use in pronterface software.
===Connect to the Printer===
Load Printer Interface (pronterface) software. Connect to printer... You may need to select the port to use.
===Load the GCODE into pronterface===
===Preheat the bed===
Go ahead and set the bed temperature to 130C (or whatever you're using), before homing. It takes a while, this will save you time.

===Home the X and Y axes===
In pronterface in the top left corner, near the big concentric circles, go ahead and hit the X home and Y home buttons. The mechanical endstops work for this reasonably well.

===Home the Z axis===
Here we get into some of the tedium / art of printing. Mechanical endstops get close but don't have the required precision (like .1 mm). What you will want to do is go ahead and hit Z home button. Then, click to raise the Z axis by .1 mm until you JUST see the head lift off the glass. Then, click down .1 mm until you are JUST ABOVE or JUST TOUCHING the glass. You need a clean extruder and a level bed for this to work well, but you'll find with some practice what is 'acceptable'. After you find your physical Z, you want to tell pronterface that the head is now actually at Z zero. The gcode command for this is
G92 Z0

===First Layer Adhesion===

==Special Tips==
===Hairspray for better adhesion===
===SD Card printing
===Levelling the bed===

==Resources and Links==
*Adan's Printer Notes: [[Adan%27s_3D_printer_notes]]
*Shane's Printer Notes: [[Shane%27s_printer_notes]]

==LEGACY DESCRIPTION (needs to be cleaned or deleted)==

The group is pooling resources to create a Makerspace owned 3D printer. Andronicus is leading the efforts, with a build goal deadline of 1/15

==Current Status==
As of 02/19/2013, the space printer is printing parts with some degree of accuracy. Hardware and software changes frequently.

==Specifications==

==Financial Contributions==
* Adan
* Dr. Strangegun
* Issac
* Sam
* Shane

==Things to Buy==
===Electronics===
* Full electronics http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=61_66&product_id=70 $198 + $20 shipping - ORDERED
* Power supply http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009EIANT2/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00 $26.96 + $5.44 shipping
* Hot End https://www.hotends.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=88 $62.49 + $3.75 shipping
* 5x Stepper Motors https://www.lulzbot.com/?q=products/nema-17-stepper-motors $87.50 + $12.00 shipping - ORDERED

Group 3D Printer

2013-03-14T17:47:03Z

Riotnrrd: /* Home the X and Y axes */

Group 3D Printer

2013-03-14T17:46:14Z

Riotnrrd: /* Preheat the bed */

Group 3D Printer

2013-03-14T17:44:53Z

Riotnrrd: /* slic3r */

Group 3D Printer

2013-03-14T17:38:31Z

Riotnrrd: /* Resources and Links */

Group 3D Printer

2013-03-14T17:37:59Z

Riotnrrd:

Adan's 3D printer notes

2013-03-14T17:36:05Z

Riotnrrd: moved 3D printer to Adan's 3D printer notes

Here are some rambling note on my experience with a Makerbot
Thing-O-Matic (TOM) using ABS plastic and the ReplicatorG software. It
is likely you won't have a TOM, but you may very well use ABS. There
are a couple general tips contained within as well. If you have
questions please ask. I honestly have no idea how PLA responds to the
heat or warping issues that I mention. It is a very different material
and you will want to read up on it before you build a machine using
it.

== Choosing a Printer ==
When I bought the Makerbot Thing-O-Matic I liked the compromise
between having a machine show up that was ready to print and having to
track down all sorts of crazy hardware from the corners of the
internet. What was wonderful is that in putting the pieces together I
gained a real understanding for how my machine physically worked.
There is a lot going on, but having put it together the machine is
actually very simple. Having a better understanding of the machine
also encouraged me to make modifications to it. These included better
lighting and helping to make it functional. Because of the learning
involved I would strongly encourage others to build their own machine.

== Problems ==
While printing there were several problems that I ran into which
should be thought of while creating the models.

The software takes you models and slices it into layers the thickness
of your vertical step. It then does some sort of infilling for the
model so it isn’t a very thin shell. What comes of out this is a path
that the extruder head will follow (or the build platform, net effect
the build platform and head are moving relative to each other). On the
first layer to be put down you should have as much surface area as
possible. What ends up happening in practice quite often is that you
have holes in that surface that could be used to run a bolt through.
Adhering of the print to the build surface was always a problem with
my print, but the most frequent problem was with the outlines of the
bolt holes. What would happen is the machine would trace the outline
for the bottom surface of the part, then lay down the circle outlines,
then do its back and forth laying down of the bottom surface. When it
would put down the circle outlines a bit of the circle would stick up
just a touch. Then when it was doing the back and forth pattern the
head would catch on the tiny bit of raised circle and drag material to
where it shouldn’t be thus warping that part of the print. Or better
it would unseat the print. The later situation is better because you
can catch it early and not waste of bunch of material.

== Overhangs ==
When printing the machine needs support material to lay down a layer
i.e. it can’t print on nothing but air. This comes into play when
trying to print something like a wing or overhanging ledge. Sometimes
the thing to do is to simply flip the model upside down (overhang is a
good case for this) or to use a dual head printer with ABS and PLA
using the ABS to print the model with and the PLA to lay down support
material to be removed later. There was some support several months
ago in the software for multi-head multi-material setups but it was
definitely in the experimental realm.

== Cautions for using the ReplicatorG Software ==
I ran into a problem when I upgraded the Replicator software one time.
It decided to drive the extruder into the build platform. The build
platform didn’t like very much. Every other time had been fine up to
that point. From then on I recalibrate every time before I print.
Remember to regenerate the tool path for your models after doing the
recalibration. Also never run their beta releases unless you like
software that flashes hardware to an unusable state. The story with
the replicator software is stick to their major releases unless you
like fixing stuff.

== Printing Cautions ==
When printing you are heating ABS plastic to a fairly high
temperature. Think about burning a Lego. This is basically what you
are doing, but a little bit less extreme. You need to think about the
fumes that are given off by this process. Of course the first thing I
thought of is I want to ventilate! A good and bad idea. Drafts while
printing cause warping. If ABS cools too fast it warps. This does
things like curls the edges of the print off of the build platform
making it come loose while printing. It can also warp the print as it
is happening, giving you a physical object that is not an accurate
representation of the model. It appears Makerbot has moved to PLA.
From the little reading I have done it appears that the reason for
this is less warping.

How did I over come this problem? I did two things. I used tape to
cover the sides of the Thing-O-Matic and put it in a computer rack to
discourage drafts. The other thing is that I setup the printer to run
in an extra room, shut the door and went to another part of the house.
I would check on the part every 5-15 minutes or just let it run its
course. When I was done printing I would then air out the room.

== Model positioning ==
When positioning the model for printing, you want the most surface
area on the build platform so the model better adheres. It gives you a
better chance at having a successful print and less chance at warping.

== Print Adhering ==
I had problems with having the print adhering to the build surface. I
used their fancy build surface coverings and the Automated Build
Platform sheet. The best by far was blue painters tape. Their stuff
would work for awhile and slowly start to fail. Maybe someone figured
out how to clean ABS residue off of build surface coverings, but
painters tape is so very inexpensive and easy to cover the platform
with. One tip, make sure that the build head is way higher then you
think you need to put the tape down or get a model out. The extruder
head burns flesh with just a very light tap.

== Comments on Heated Build Platforms ==
You want one. It makes the model adhere to the
build platform better and prevents edge curling. If you are going to
build a machine, don’t skimp on a small cost if it will greatly
improve the performance. This is true for ABS

== Useful Web sites ==
http://www.thingiverse.com/ is a repository of models<BR>
http://www.sketchup.com/ Free software from Google to do 3D modeling

Group 3D Printer

2013-03-12T22:03:11Z

Riotnrrd:

Group 3D Printer

2013-03-12T21:30:50Z

Riotnrrd:

Group 3D Printer

2013-03-12T21:28:30Z

Riotnrrd: /* Resources */

Group 3D Printer

2013-03-12T21:27:52Z

Riotnrrd: /* Software */

Group 3D Printer

2013-03-12T21:22:00Z

Riotnrrd: /* Mechanicals */

Group 3D Printer

2013-03-12T21:19:28Z

Riotnrrd:

==Overview==
The group has purchased and assembled a Prusa Mendel 3D printer. This page gives some instructions on its use

==Mechanicals==
==Software==
===slic3r===
===Printrun===
===Configuration Files===
==Procedure==
===Create the GCODE===
===Connect to the Printer===
===Load the GCODE into pronterface===
===Preheat the bed===
===Home the X and Y axes===
===Home the Z axis===
===First Layer Adhesion===

==Resources==

The group is pooling resources to create a Makerspace owned 3D printer. Andronicus is leading the efforts, with a build goal deadline of 1/15

==Current Status==
As of 02/19/2013, the space printer is printing parts with some degree of accuracy. Hardware and software changes frequently.

==Specifications==

==Financial Contributions==
* Adan
* Dr. Strangegun
* Issac
* Sam
* Shane

==Things to Buy==
===Electronics===
* Full electronics http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=61_66&product_id=70 $198 + $20 shipping - ORDERED
* Power supply http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009EIANT2/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00 $26.96 + $5.44 shipping
* Hot End https://www.hotends.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=88 $62.49 + $3.75 shipping
* 5x Stepper Motors https://www.lulzbot.com/?q=products/nema-17-stepper-motors $87.50 + $12.00 shipping - ORDERED

Shane's printer notes

2013-03-09T17:22:44Z

Riotnrrd:

===2/20===
whatever the default config stuff is on the printer

used default slicer config, Marlin configs from github

When Zing, notice that front left clip interferes with fan. WTF... fan? Clips interfere with complete bed... don't even get 180x180. Need a better means. Remove fan? Removed.

Reset the switches for X and Z homes to be 'correct'.
Confirmed 30mm extrusion is more or less 30 mm (accuracy suffers w/ inches tape measure, need metric)
Confirmed bed is more or less level

following instructions from here:
http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html

printed .5mm box, isnt great... poor 1st layer adhesion, messy walls

adjusted the speeds per calibration instructions part 2 (saved as 'normal' slicer config)

reset to default firmware / config
reprinted calibration box... X axis is reversed. endstops dont work. Considerably different from stock! Restored previous firmware.

Changed layer height to .30, and to .40... no noticeable difference.

I think for learning I will need to start at the beginning for slicer, firmware, etc.

JHEAD hotend? What nozzle size?

"So as a refresher you need to set the correct steps per mm of used filament in the firmware, you can work this out by just extruding some plastic, I recommend using Printrun (Pronterface) Get it here

To do this you will need to edit, re-compile and upload firmware to your electronics, I'm going to assume you already know how to do that using the Arduino software. - (If not let me know)."

===2/24===
*Looks like the homing is pretty much OK. the board has been remounted on the side. I had asked for a freeze, its not frozen.. but whatver. Seems OK. Trying .5mm thin wall calibration. Using slicing gcode from previous run as a baseline.

*First few layers look good. get messy after the first 6 or so. Also some blurbs... check retraction?

*Reset the z axis to be just barely touching, a little closer. Reprinted... some jitter in the y axis on the first (slow) layer. very flat on the first layer

*verified settings in Marlin firmware. Pulled from the SD card, compared to original, uploaded to github

*verified X, about 100.2mm (should be 100) pretty close!
*verified Y, about 100.1mm ... pretty close!
* Z axis problem - board interferes with the Z axis, at about 82mm

*checked slic3r config, decreased layer height to .2 mm, recalibrated

* printed some in rapid succession, problems w/ z... after 3 prints, it drove z through the bed!
*adjusted the z current on the potentiometer on the board... its the one with 2 wires going into it (Z has same controller for 2 motors). I turned it all the way CCW, then up CW till moved, then another 1/8 turn per http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration#Motor_Calibration
*sounds like some vibration in the Y axis... should check pot current for that too
* printed a 20mm cube, 100% fill, Andy pointed out the fill rate was too high... the 20mm block was bowed out on the top. cut it back to .95 in the extrusion multiplier in slic3r. Better, still too much. Dialed back to .90, which is the max... otherwise, need to calibrate esteps or filament diameter. .90 looks pretty good, could probably be a little smaller... should definitely double check esteps / filament diameter

*3rd cube ALMOST perfect. May consider remeasure / recalibrate the fill rate (fill rate diameter in slic3r, or esteps in firmware)
* reprinted the .5mm wall, looks GREAT

*adjusted the Y potentiometer. Now works GREAT! No sound, no vibration
* might should check the retraction parameters
*printed big piece LOOKS AWESOME
* might want to lift the z when done with print so it doesnt interfere
* will need to verify mechanicals... looks like the Z is a little off square.
'''todo:'''
*check on hysteresis per Andy
*check on cooling setting, check jerk settings
*check retraction
*double check esteps / filament diameter
*consider lift Z after print before moving.
*verify mechanicals (level, square, etc)

===2/25===
*Recompiled current Configuration.h w/ Marlin, uploaded to double check settings. Changed slicer layer size to .3. printed .5mm thin wall... goofed up.
* some vibration when printing... seems to be coming from extruder. Calibrated extrusion pot. Still looks like crap... turned on Cooling in slic3r. Yep.. cooling did it.

===2/27===
* releveled bed... back was too high!
* calibrated minimum temp... appears will go down at LEAST to 200.
==Tips==
http://hackaday.com/2013/02/26/giving-3d-printed-parts-a-shiny-smooth-finish/

===2/28===
* changed filament to 1.73, modifier to 1
* changed temperature to 225
* calibrated w/ 20mm solid cube... overfull! TOo much fill

===3/9===
*changed back to original slicing settings, with .36 layer height, 1.73 diameter, .9 extrusion multiplier. Space Marine Cpt (fixed), crap. changed filament to 1.76, extrusion .8.

Space History

2013-03-01T18:54:51Z

Riotnrrd: Created page with "A bit about our organization's history. We've always planned to become a non-profit. We're working through the paperwork on that now. Before we had a space of our own, we met ..."

A bit about our organization's history. We've always planned to become a non-profit. We're working through the paperwork on that now. Before we had a space of our own, we met at another non-profit that was willing to host us for free. It was basically two nights a month, and we had one open house and one structured class. It's important to get together to know how many folks will actually stick it out. At that time we tried to collect dues, but it was hard because we didn't have much to offer. It was helpful, however, in telling us who was really serious about having a hackerspace. We started banking a little money that way, but it didn't amount to much. We ended up collecting about $1800 dollars that way over the course of 8 months. Finally, Sam through down the gauntlet and offered a 1000 dollar donation if we could move into our space in three months. We had a few other folks match with similar offers, and we ended up with about 7500 in total collections to help us get moving. We put together an analysis, and our estimates showed that we could end up renting our space for a year if we spent all of that money, and the dues we knew we could get. At that point, we were reasonably expecting to have about 8 or 9 paying members. The idea, though, was to get a space. We had heard lots of people on the fence say that they would pay if we had a space. So, we got a few big donations to get the space going. So far, we've been successful beyond what we would have hoped. It's only in the last month or two that we've had enough members to put us in the black. As mentioned before, we were just hoping to be able to maybe make it to the end of our first year on our lease. It seems very much like "A Field of Dreams": If you build it, they will come. :)

Some notes about our startup that may be useful. You'll be setting up business accounts for your utilities. Basically, everything is going to want at least 1 month's deposit. The utilities will look at the history of previous tenants and charge you a deposit equal to the largest bill in their history. Your land lord will probably want one month's rent deposit, plus the first month's rent in advance. We sent out SO MANY DOLLARS just to get ready to move in. Having a big cash cushion is going to be necessary. We weren't really expecting that, but we were fortunately well prepared with several of our members making big deposits. It cost us almost $3,000 to cover all the deposits, etc, before we even moved in.

Anyway, to address your questions:
Insurance requirements vary from state to state. I had no luck at all getting any big corporate insurer to get back with me. I talked with about a dozen. The reality is that they have risk categories for stuff, and hackerspace doesn't fit into their risk categories very well, so they weren't willing to work with us at all. I ended up getting a recommendation for insurance from some local folks that own their own small business. It was another local small business, and they were super helpful. They end up categorizing us as a vocational school, which I think is a perfect fit. It covers the teaching the public to use dangerous tools that can kill or maim. I suppose it's possible that if I told a big commercial insurer to treat us like a vocational school, they'd be able to make that work. The exact amount and type of insurance that you need will be specified by your landlord. We got a pretty standard $1M blanket liability policy, and I cost us just under $700 per year. There's a discount for paying all at once, so that's another benefit to getting your cash together up front.

Our utilities are driven by our HVAC. We have electric DX cooling with a gas furnace heater. Summer time our electric hit close to $150/month. Our gas bill hit $100 once, but has been less than that otherwise. Recently it was less that $20. That's really going to be driven by the weather. When you get a space, make sure everyone knows that the closeup policy means turning out the lights, turning off the AC, and locking up. That'll help keep costs down. Our space is about 1000 square feet, and we haven't broken over $150 in total monthly utility costs yet. Water is free where we are, so we're not using much there. For internet, you pay whatever the local monopoly charges.

As mentioned, the space we are renting is about 1000 s.f., and we're paying 675 in monthly rent. That's going to be very location dependent. We could get cheaper per s.f. cost if we went with a larger space, but we couldn't afford that at the time. In newer/more convenient places we could very easily spend way more than that.

I track monthly income and expenses to track cashflow. I also calculate a monthly cost, which is all our annual costs divided by 12. That's to make sure that I don't forget to account for once per year costs like insurance and registration fees when seeing whether or not we're making money. A given month may show positive cash flow, but I want to make sure we're actually sustainable. Our break even number right now is about $1,000 per month. You should know what that number is you before you sign the lease. See how many members that works out to so you know how many people you need to reach. You don't need to start there (we were honestly under half that when we started, but we had a fair cash pile), but you need to end up there before the money runs out. You can do a cash forecast pretty easily in a spreadsheet.

We've done our best to keep other expenses very near to zero while we were working towards sustainability. There are some costs for hosting/registering domains. We've paid for a bit of advertising (mostly in the form of printing flyers that our members distribute). There's been some safety equipment, too. And paypal fees. Man, everyone wants to pay dues electronically, but right now we're paying paypal more than $50/month, so that's a whole membership right there.

Our finances from 2012 showed that about 40% of our collections were donations, and the rest were member dues. A large part of that had to do with the big donations that we received to get us going. For the past several months we have had mostly just member dues as our collections. So far, our members have shown no shortage of generosity when we ask for special donations. We wanted to get a 3D printer that belonged to the Space, and we had several people donate $100 on top of their usual dues to help purchase a printer. Even more recently, we needed to have some electrical upgrades made for the new Cray XT4, and when we put out the calls for donations on that, we had all we needed in 12 minutes. We try not to abuse passing around the hat, and so far it's gone well.

Our dues are set at $50/month. It fits well with the gym membership model. We've not really had much in the way of pushback on it. There are lots of places that charge more. That's going to be driven by cost of living. You'll need to find a number that works for you.

I hope that helps. Let us know if you have any more questions, and good luck starting up a new space! It's pretty intimidating before you do it, but it's really amazing how it works out once you make the leap.

Main Page

2013-03-01T18:54:28Z

Riotnrrd: /* About Knox Makers */

__NOTOC__
'''Welcome to the Knox Makers Wiki!'''
''Write Access to this wiki is to only members who have an ldap login''

=About Knox Makers=
We have a good overview on our [https://knoxmakers.org/about website].

The quick way to get involved in discussions with us is to join our Google Group at [https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups#!forum/knoxmakers Knox Makers].

For an overview of everything on the wiki, an index page is [http://knoxmakers.com/wiki/index.php?title=Special:AllPages here].

Here is some [[Space History]]

==Members==
This section has some information that is useful to members and/or potential members.

[[Membership Rules]] - Here is a place to find the rules that our members are expected to follow.

[[How to Become a Member]] - An overview of the process.

[[Group Buy]] - When we have an active group buy going, this is the page we use to keep it all organized.

==Projects==
This area is for keeping track of what our members have done/are doing/are planning to do.

[[Past Projects]] - Where old projects never die, they just go to instruct others who try in the future.

[[Current Projects]] - This is what we are working on right now.

[[Future Projects]] - Ideas for things we want to do...one day.

[[List of Events]] - This is a list of the classes/presentations and other events we've had at Knox Makers.

[[Event Ideas]] - Here is a place to put ideas for classes/presentations you'd be interested in seeing in the future.

==Workshop Archives==
Links to archives of our past workshops, including pictures, video, and slides, can be found here:
[[Past Workshops]]

==Facilities==
This is a place to keep track of what tools/items/abilities we have in/because of our space.

[[Equipment Donations and Loans]]

[[Office of SpaceMaster pages]]

[[Space Improvements]]

==Corporate==
[[Mission Statement]] - What our purpose is.

[[Board of Directors]] - A list of our current directors and their working items.

[[Bylaws]] - The corporate organization and other major items details are covered here.

[[Officer Duties]] - A description of duties performed by the board of directors.

[[Policies and Procedures]] - A place to keep the procedures for members that we've generated to Knox Makers run smoothly.

[[Meeting Minutes|Meeting Minutes]] - A place to keep meeting minutes.

[[Files]] - Where we keep our media, publicity and other items.

Group Buy

2013-03-01T13:40:21Z

Riotnrrd: /* Shane */

==Laz==
*330 Ohm 1W resistor - Qty 2 [[http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/RS01AR3300FE70/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtbXrIkmrvidDnVsdYYat5ojwsJxs9yCYo%3d link]] - $2.40
*2.5mm Phone Connector - Qty 4 [[http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kobiconn/161-1650-EX/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0W4pxf2HiV86zmt%252ba%252b%252bJ6Je%252bI3OQPzc4%3d link]] $4.16
*0.3A fuses - Qty 4 [[http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cooper-Bussmann/BK-AGC-3-10-R/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMseCiJT91fwIlyoGrb8FM5nbwcUPuhfu84%3d link]] - $4.92
*100 kOhm 1% resistors - Qty 10 [[http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/CCF60100KFKE36/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBIB%252bY0FJvUmZdx2Tfj7%252bl5cU%3d link]] - $1.00
*add some 35pF capacitors for probes
Total: $**+tax/shipping

=Adafruit Group Buy=
==Sam M.==
*1x Raspberry Pi Starter Pack - ID: 1014 - http://adafruit.com/products/1014
*1x Sugru - Black and White Pack - ID: 437 - http://www.adafruit.com/products/437
*1x Magnetic Project Mat - ID: 1007 - https://www.adafruit.com/products/1007
*1x Heat Shrink Pack - ID: 344 - https://www.adafruit.com/products/344
*1x 38 Piece Screwdriver Set - ID: 822 - https://www.adafruit.com/products/822
*1x Powerswitch tail 2 - ID: 268 - https://www.adafruit.com/products/268
*1x Colorful Square Tactile Button Switch Assortment - 15 pack - ID: 1010 - http://www.adafruit.com/products/1010

==Shane==
* 1x RaspberryPi Starter Pack - http://adafruit.com/products/1014
* 1x FTDI Friend + extras http://adafruit.com/products/284
* 3x (XBee Adapter Kit http://adafruit.com/products/126
* 1x PIR (motion) sensor http://www.adafruit.com/products/189
* 1x Colorful Square Tactile Button Switch Assortment - 15 pack - http://www.adafruit.com/products/1010

==Fractal_Explorer==
* 1x Premium Male/Male Jumper Wires - 40 x 12" (300mm) ID: 760 - http://adafruit.com/products/760
* 1x Raspberry Pi Starter Pack - Includes a Raspberry Pi Computer ID: 1014 - http://adafruit.com/products/1014
* 1x Miniature WiFi (802.11b/g/n) Module: For Raspberry Pi and more ID: 814 - http://adafruit.com/products/814
* 2x Copper Foil Tape with Conductive Adhesive - 6mm x 15 meter roll ID: 1128 - http://adafruit.com/products/1128
* 1x Colorful Square Tactile Button Switch Assortment - 15 pack ID: 1010 - http://www.adafruit.com/products/1010
* 1x Colorful Round Tactile Button Switch Assortment - 15 pack ID: 1009 - http://www.adafruit.com/products/1009
* 1x Tactile Button switch (6mm) x 20 pack ID: 367 - http://www.adafruit.com/products/367

==Issac==
* 6x Micro Switch w/Wire – Three Terminals http://adafruit.com/products/820
* 1x SMT Breakout PCB for SOIC-8, MSOP-8 or TSSOP-8 (6 pack) http://adafruit.com/products/1212
* 1x SMT Breakout PCB for SOIC-14 or TSSOP-14 (6 pack) http://adafruit.com/products/1210
* 1x SMT Breakout PCB for SOIC-16 or TSSOP-16 (3 pack) http://adafruit.com/products/1207
* 1x SMT Breakout PCB for SOIC-28 or TSSOP-28 (3 pack) http://adafruit.com/products/1208
* 1x SMT Breakout PCB for SOIC-12 or TSSOP-12 (6 pack) http://adafruit.com/products/1211
* 1x SMT Breakout PCB for SOIC-20 or TSSOP-20 (3 pack) http://adafruit.com/products/1206
* 4x Pig-Tail Cables – 0.1” 2-pin (4 pack) http://adafruit.com/products/1003
* 5x Diffused RGB (tri-color) LED http://adafruit.com/products/159
* 1x Pulse Sensor Amped http://adafruit.com/products/1093
* 4x Rotary Encoder + Extras http://adafruit.com/products/377

==Brian M.==
*item 1
*item 2
*item 3

Group Buy

2013-03-01T13:36:48Z

Riotnrrd: /* Shane */

==Laz==
*330 Ohm 1W resistor - Qty 2 [[http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/RS01AR3300FE70/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtbXrIkmrvidDnVsdYYat5ojwsJxs9yCYo%3d link]] - $2.40
*2.5mm Phone Connector - Qty 4 [[http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kobiconn/161-1650-EX/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0W4pxf2HiV86zmt%252ba%252b%252bJ6Je%252bI3OQPzc4%3d link]] $4.16
*0.3A fuses - Qty 4 [[http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cooper-Bussmann/BK-AGC-3-10-R/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMseCiJT91fwIlyoGrb8FM5nbwcUPuhfu84%3d link]] - $4.92
*100 kOhm 1% resistors - Qty 10 [[http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/CCF60100KFKE36/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBIB%252bY0FJvUmZdx2Tfj7%252bl5cU%3d link]] - $1.00
*add some 35pF capacitors for probes
Total: $**+tax/shipping

=Adafruit Group Buy=
==Sam M.==
*1x Raspberry Pi Starter Pack - ID: 1014 - http://adafruit.com/products/1014
*1x Sugru - Black and White Pack - ID: 437 - http://www.adafruit.com/products/437
*1x Magnetic Project Mat - ID: 1007 - https://www.adafruit.com/products/1007
*1x Heat Shrink Pack - ID: 344 - https://www.adafruit.com/products/344
*1x 38 Piece Screwdriver Set - ID: 822 - https://www.adafruit.com/products/822
*1x Powerswitch tail 2 - ID: 268 - https://www.adafruit.com/products/268
*1x Colorful Square Tactile Button Switch Assortment - 15 pack - ID: 1010 - http://www.adafruit.com/products/1010

==Shane==
* 1x RaspberryPi Starter Pack - http://adafruit.com/products/1014
* 1x FTDI Friend + extras http://adafruit.com/products/284
* 3x (XBee Adapter Kit http://adafruit.com/products/126
* 1x PIR (motion) sensor http://www.adafruit.com/products/189

==Fractal_Explorer==
* 1x Premium Male/Male Jumper Wires - 40 x 12" (300mm) ID: 760 - http://adafruit.com/products/760
* 1x Raspberry Pi Starter Pack - Includes a Raspberry Pi Computer ID: 1014 - http://adafruit.com/products/1014
* 1x Miniature WiFi (802.11b/g/n) Module: For Raspberry Pi and more ID: 814 - http://adafruit.com/products/814
* 2x Copper Foil Tape with Conductive Adhesive - 6mm x 15 meter roll ID: 1128 - http://adafruit.com/products/1128
* 1x Colorful Square Tactile Button Switch Assortment - 15 pack ID: 1010 - http://www.adafruit.com/products/1010
* 1x Colorful Round Tactile Button Switch Assortment - 15 pack ID: 1009 - http://www.adafruit.com/products/1009
* 1x Tactile Button switch (6mm) x 20 pack ID: 367 - http://www.adafruit.com/products/367

==Issac==
* 6x Micro Switch w/Wire – Three Terminals http://adafruit.com/products/820
* 1x SMT Breakout PCB for SOIC-8, MSOP-8 or TSSOP-8 (6 pack) http://adafruit.com/products/1212
* 1x SMT Breakout PCB for SOIC-14 or TSSOP-14 (6 pack) http://adafruit.com/products/1210
* 1x SMT Breakout PCB for SOIC-16 or TSSOP-16 (3 pack) http://adafruit.com/products/1207
* 1x SMT Breakout PCB for SOIC-28 or TSSOP-28 (3 pack) http://adafruit.com/products/1208
* 1x SMT Breakout PCB for SOIC-12 or TSSOP-12 (6 pack) http://adafruit.com/products/1211
* 1x SMT Breakout PCB for SOIC-20 or TSSOP-20 (3 pack) http://adafruit.com/products/1206
* 4x Pig-Tail Cables – 0.1” 2-pin (4 pack) http://adafruit.com/products/1003
* 5x Diffused RGB (tri-color) LED http://adafruit.com/products/159
* 1x Pulse Sensor Amped http://adafruit.com/products/1093
* 4x Rotary Encoder + Extras http://adafruit.com/products/377

==Brian M.==
*item 1
*item 2
*item 3

Group Buy

2013-03-01T13:36:33Z

Riotnrrd: /* Shane */

==Laz==
*330 Ohm 1W resistor - Qty 2 [[http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/RS01AR3300FE70/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtbXrIkmrvidDnVsdYYat5ojwsJxs9yCYo%3d link]] - $2.40
*2.5mm Phone Connector - Qty 4 [[http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kobiconn/161-1650-EX/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0W4pxf2HiV86zmt%252ba%252b%252bJ6Je%252bI3OQPzc4%3d link]] $4.16
*0.3A fuses - Qty 4 [[http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cooper-Bussmann/BK-AGC-3-10-R/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMseCiJT91fwIlyoGrb8FM5nbwcUPuhfu84%3d link]] - $4.92
*100 kOhm 1% resistors - Qty 10 [[http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/CCF60100KFKE36/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBIB%252bY0FJvUmZdx2Tfj7%252bl5cU%3d link]] - $1.00
*add some 35pF capacitors for probes
Total: $**+tax/shipping

=Adafruit Group Buy=
==Sam M.==
*1x Raspberry Pi Starter Pack - ID: 1014 - http://adafruit.com/products/1014
*1x Sugru - Black and White Pack - ID: 437 - http://www.adafruit.com/products/437
*1x Magnetic Project Mat - ID: 1007 - https://www.adafruit.com/products/1007
*1x Heat Shrink Pack - ID: 344 - https://www.adafruit.com/products/344
*1x 38 Piece Screwdriver Set - ID: 822 - https://www.adafruit.com/products/822
*1x Powerswitch tail 2 - ID: 268 - https://www.adafruit.com/products/268
*1x Colorful Square Tactile Button Switch Assortment - 15 pack - ID: 1010 - http://www.adafruit.com/products/1010

==Shane==
* 1x RaspberryPi Starter Pack - http://adafruit.com/products/1014
* 1x FTDI Friend + extras http://adafruit.com/products/284
* 3x (three total) XBee Adapter Kit http://adafruit.com/products/126
* 1x PIR (motion) sensor http://www.adafruit.com/products/189

==Fractal_Explorer==
* 1x Premium Male/Male Jumper Wires - 40 x 12" (300mm) ID: 760 - http://adafruit.com/products/760
* 1x Raspberry Pi Starter Pack - Includes a Raspberry Pi Computer ID: 1014 - http://adafruit.com/products/1014
* 1x Miniature WiFi (802.11b/g/n) Module: For Raspberry Pi and more ID: 814 - http://adafruit.com/products/814
* 2x Copper Foil Tape with Conductive Adhesive - 6mm x 15 meter roll ID: 1128 - http://adafruit.com/products/1128
* 1x Colorful Square Tactile Button Switch Assortment - 15 pack ID: 1010 - http://www.adafruit.com/products/1010
* 1x Colorful Round Tactile Button Switch Assortment - 15 pack ID: 1009 - http://www.adafruit.com/products/1009
* 1x Tactile Button switch (6mm) x 20 pack ID: 367 - http://www.adafruit.com/products/367

==Issac==
* 6x Micro Switch w/Wire – Three Terminals http://adafruit.com/products/820
* 1x SMT Breakout PCB for SOIC-8, MSOP-8 or TSSOP-8 (6 pack) http://adafruit.com/products/1212
* 1x SMT Breakout PCB for SOIC-14 or TSSOP-14 (6 pack) http://adafruit.com/products/1210
* 1x SMT Breakout PCB for SOIC-16 or TSSOP-16 (3 pack) http://adafruit.com/products/1207
* 1x SMT Breakout PCB for SOIC-28 or TSSOP-28 (3 pack) http://adafruit.com/products/1208
* 1x SMT Breakout PCB for SOIC-12 or TSSOP-12 (6 pack) http://adafruit.com/products/1211
* 1x SMT Breakout PCB for SOIC-20 or TSSOP-20 (3 pack) http://adafruit.com/products/1206
* 4x Pig-Tail Cables – 0.1” 2-pin (4 pack) http://adafruit.com/products/1003
* 5x Diffused RGB (tri-color) LED http://adafruit.com/products/159
* 1x Pulse Sensor Amped http://adafruit.com/products/1093
* 4x Rotary Encoder + Extras http://adafruit.com/products/377

==Brian M.==
*item 1
*item 2
*item 3

Shane's printer notes

2013-02-28T07:11:42Z

Riotnrrd: /* 2/28 */

Shane's printer notes

2013-02-28T07:00:42Z

Riotnrrd:

Group Buy

2013-02-28T00:24:28Z

Riotnrrd:

Shane's printer notes

2013-02-27T19:59:40Z

Riotnrrd:

Shane's printer notes

2013-02-26T18:09:03Z

Riotnrrd:

===2/20===
whatever the default config stuff is on the printer

used default slicer config, Marlin configs from github

When Zing, notice that front left clip interferes with fan. WTF... fan? Clips interfere with complete bed... don't even get 180x180. Need a better means. Remove fan? Removed.

Reset the switches for X and Z homes to be 'correct'.
Confirmed 30mm extrusion is more or less 30 mm (accuracy suffers w/ inches tape measure, need metric)
Confirmed bed is more or less level

following instructions from here:
http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html

printed .5mm box, isnt great... poor 1st layer adhesion, messy walls

adjusted the speeds per calibration instructions part 2 (saved as 'normal' slicer config)

reset to default firmware / config
reprinted calibration box... X axis is reversed. endstops dont work. Considerably different from stock! Restored previous firmware.

Changed layer height to .30, and to .40... no noticeable difference.

I think for learning I will need to start at the beginning for slicer, firmware, etc.

JHEAD hotend? What nozzle size?

"So as a refresher you need to set the correct steps per mm of used filament in the firmware, you can work this out by just extruding some plastic, I recommend using Printrun (Pronterface) Get it here

To do this you will need to edit, re-compile and upload firmware to your electronics, I'm going to assume you already know how to do that using the Arduino software. - (If not let me know)."

===2/24===
*Looks like the homing is pretty much OK. the board has been remounted on the side. I had asked for a freeze, its not frozen.. but whatver. Seems OK. Trying .5mm thin wall calibration. Using slicing gcode from previous run as a baseline.

*First few layers look good. get messy after the first 6 or so. Also some blurbs... check retraction?

*Reset the z axis to be just barely touching, a little closer. Reprinted... some jitter in the y axis on the first (slow) layer. very flat on the first layer

*verified settings in Marlin firmware. Pulled from the SD card, compared to original, uploaded to github

*verified X, about 100.2mm (should be 100) pretty close!
*verified Y, about 100.1mm ... pretty close!
* Z axis problem - board interferes with the Z axis, at about 82mm

*checked slic3r config, decreased layer height to .2 mm, recalibrated

* printed some in rapid succession, problems w/ z... after 3 prints, it drove z through the bed!
*adjusted the z current on the potentiometer on the board... its the one with 2 wires going into it (Z has same controller for 2 motors). I turned it all the way CCW, then up CW till moved, then another 1/8 turn per http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration#Motor_Calibration
*sounds like some vibration in the Y axis... should check pot current for that too
* printed a 20mm cube, 100% fill, Andy pointed out the fill rate was too high... the 20mm block was bowed out on the top. cut it back to .95 in the extrusion multiplier in slic3r. Better, still too much. Dialed back to .90, which is the max... otherwise, need to calibrate esteps or filament diameter. .90 looks pretty good, could probably be a little smaller... should definitely double check esteps / filament diameter

*3rd cube ALMOST perfect. May consider remeasure / recalibrate the fill rate (fill rate diameter in slic3r, or esteps in firmware)
* reprinted the .5mm wall, looks GREAT

*adjusted the Y potentiometer. Now works GREAT! No sound, no vibration
* might should check the retraction parameters
*printed big piece LOOKS AWESOME
* might want to lift the z when done with print so it doesnt interfere
* will need to verify mechanicals... looks like the Z is a little off square.
'''todo:'''
*check on hysteresis per Andy
*check on cooling setting, check jerk settings
*check retraction
*double check esteps / filament diameter
*consider lift Z after print before moving.
*verify mechanicals (level, square, etc)

===2/25===
*Recompiled current Configuration.h w/ Marlin, uploaded to double check settings. Changed slicer layer size to .3. printed .5mm thin wall... goofed up.
* some vibration when printing... seems to be coming from extruder. Calibrated extrusion pot. Still looks like crap... turned on Cooling in slic3r. Yep.. cooling did it.

==Tips==
http://hackaday.com/2013/02/26/giving-3d-printed-parts-a-shiny-smooth-finish/

Shane's printer notes

2013-02-25T17:23:49Z

Riotnrrd:

Shane's printer notes

2013-02-25T16:48:26Z

Riotnrrd:

Shane's printer notes

2013-02-25T16:47:25Z

Riotnrrd:

Shane's printer notes

2013-02-25T16:47:07Z

Riotnrrd: /* 2/20 */

===2/20===
whatever the default config stuff is on the printer

used default slicer config, Marlin configs from github

When Zing, notice that front left clip interferes with fan. WTF... fan? Clips interfere with complete bed... don't even get 180x180. Need a better means. Remove fan? Removed.

Reset the switches for X and Z homes to be 'correct'.
Confirmed 30mm extrusion is more or less 30 mm (accuracy suffers w/ inches tape measure, need metric)
Confirmed bed is more or less level

following instructions from here:
http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html

printed .5mm box, isnt great... poor 1st layer adhesion, messy walls

adjusted the speeds per calibration instructions part 2 (saved as 'normal' slicer config)

reset to default firmware / config
reprinted calibration box... X axis is reversed. endstops dont work. Considerably different from stock! Restored previous firmware.

Changed layer height to .30, and to .40... no noticeable difference.

I think for learning I will need to start at the beginning for slicer, firmware, etc.

JHEAD hotend? What nozzle size?

"So as a refresher you need to set the correct steps per mm of used filament in the firmware, you can work this out by just extruding some plastic, I recommend using Printrun (Pronterface) Get it here

To do this you will need to edit, re-compile and upload firmware to your electronics, I'm going to assume you already know how to do that using the Arduino software. - (If not let me know)."

==2/24==
*Looks like the homing is pretty much OK. the board has been remounted on the side. I had asked for a freeze, its not frozen.. but whatver. Seems OK. Trying .5mm thin wall calibration. Using slicing gcode from previous run as a baseline.

*First few layers look good. get messy after the first 6 or so. Also some blurbs... check retraction?

*Reset the z axis to be just barely touching, a little closer. Reprinted... some jitter in the y axis on the first (slow) layer. very flat on the first layer

*verified settings in Marlin firmware. Pulled from the SD card, compared to original, uploaded to github

*verified X, about 100.2mm (should be 100) pretty close!
*verified Y, about 100.1mm ... pretty close!
* Z axis problem - board interferes with the Z axis, at about 82mm

*checked slic3r config, decreased layer height to .2 mm, recalibrated

* printed some in rapid succession, problems w/ z... after 3 prints, it drove z through the bed!
*adjusted the z current on the potentiometer on the board... its the one with 2 wires going into it (Z has same controller for 2 motors). I turned it all the way CCW, then up CW till moved, then another 1/8 turn per http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration#Motor_Calibration
*sounds like some vibration in the Y axis... should check pot current for that too
* printed a 20mm cube, 100% fill, Andy pointed out the fill rate was too high... the 20mm block was bowed out on the top. cut it back to .95 in the extrusion multiplier in slic3r. Better, still too much. Dialed back to .90, which is the max... otherwise, need to calibrate esteps or filament diameter. .90 looks pretty good, could probably be a little smaller... should definitely double check esteps / filament diameter

*3rd cube ALMOST perfect. May consider remeasure / recalibrate the fill rate (fill rate diameter in slic3r, or esteps in firmware)
* reprinted the .5mm wall, looks GREAT

*adjusted the Y potentiometer. Now works GREAT! No sound, no vibration
* might should check the retraction parameters
*printed big piece LOOKS AWESOME
* might want to lift the z when done with print so it doesnt interfere
* will need to verify mechanicals... looks like the Z is a little off square.
'''todo:'''
*check on hysteresis per Andy
*check on cooling setting, check jerk settings
*check retraction
*double check esteps / filament diameter
*consider lift Z after print before moving.
*verify mechanicals (level, square, etc)

==2/25==
*Recompiled current Configuration.h w/ Marlin, uploaded to double check settings

Shane's printer notes

2013-02-25T16:46:52Z

Riotnrrd:

==2/20==
whatever the default config stuff is on the printer

used default slicer config, Marlin configs from github

When Zing, notice that front left clip interferes with fan. WTF... fan? Clips interfere with complete bed... don't even get 180x180. Need a better means. Remove fan? Removed.

Reset the switches for X and Z homes to be 'correct'.
Confirmed 30mm extrusion is more or less 30 mm (accuracy suffers w/ inches tape measure, need metric)
Confirmed bed is more or less level

following instructions from here:
http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html

printed .5mm box, isnt great... poor 1st layer adhesion, messy walls

adjusted the speeds per calibration instructions part 2 (saved as 'normal' slicer config)

reset to default firmware / config
reprinted calibration box... X axis is reversed. endstops dont work. Considerably different from stock! Restored previous firmware.

Changed layer height to .30, and to .40... no noticeable difference.

I think for learning I will need to start at the beginning for slicer, firmware, etc.

JHEAD hotend? What nozzle size?

"So as a refresher you need to set the correct steps per mm of used filament in the firmware, you can work this out by just extruding some plastic, I recommend using Printrun (Pronterface) Get it here

To do this you will need to edit, re-compile and upload firmware to your electronics, I'm going to assume you already know how to do that using the Arduino software. - (If not let me know)."

==2/24==
*Looks like the homing is pretty much OK. the board has been remounted on the side. I had asked for a freeze, its not frozen.. but whatver. Seems OK. Trying .5mm thin wall calibration. Using slicing gcode from previous run as a baseline.

*First few layers look good. get messy after the first 6 or so. Also some blurbs... check retraction?

*Reset the z axis to be just barely touching, a little closer. Reprinted... some jitter in the y axis on the first (slow) layer. very flat on the first layer

*verified settings in Marlin firmware. Pulled from the SD card, compared to original, uploaded to github

*verified X, about 100.2mm (should be 100) pretty close!
*verified Y, about 100.1mm ... pretty close!
* Z axis problem - board interferes with the Z axis, at about 82mm

*checked slic3r config, decreased layer height to .2 mm, recalibrated

* printed some in rapid succession, problems w/ z... after 3 prints, it drove z through the bed!
*adjusted the z current on the potentiometer on the board... its the one with 2 wires going into it (Z has same controller for 2 motors). I turned it all the way CCW, then up CW till moved, then another 1/8 turn per http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration#Motor_Calibration
*sounds like some vibration in the Y axis... should check pot current for that too
* printed a 20mm cube, 100% fill, Andy pointed out the fill rate was too high... the 20mm block was bowed out on the top. cut it back to .95 in the extrusion multiplier in slic3r. Better, still too much. Dialed back to .90, which is the max... otherwise, need to calibrate esteps or filament diameter. .90 looks pretty good, could probably be a little smaller... should definitely double check esteps / filament diameter

*3rd cube ALMOST perfect. May consider remeasure / recalibrate the fill rate (fill rate diameter in slic3r, or esteps in firmware)
* reprinted the .5mm wall, looks GREAT

*adjusted the Y potentiometer. Now works GREAT! No sound, no vibration
* might should check the retraction parameters
*printed big piece LOOKS AWESOME
* might want to lift the z when done with print so it doesnt interfere
* will need to verify mechanicals... looks like the Z is a little off square.
'''todo:'''
*check on hysteresis per Andy
*check on cooling setting, check jerk settings
*check retraction
*double check esteps / filament diameter
*consider lift Z after print before moving.
*verify mechanicals (level, square, etc)

==2/25==
*Recompiled current Configuration.h w/ Marlin, uploaded to double check settings

Shane's printer notes

2013-02-25T14:08:42Z

Riotnrrd: /* 2/24 */

Shane's printer notes

2013-02-25T14:06:25Z

Riotnrrd: /* 2/24/2013 */

==2/20==
whatever the default config stuff is on the printer

used default slicer config, Marlin configs from github

When Zing, notice that front left clip interferes with fan. WTF... fan? Clips interfere with complete bed... don't even get 180x180. Need a better means. Remove fan? Removed.

Reset the switches for X and Z homes to be 'correct'.
Confirmed 30mm extrusion is more or less 30 mm (accuracy suffers w/ inches tape measure, need metric)
Confirmed bed is more or less level

following instructions from here:
http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html

printed .5mm box, isnt great... poor 1st layer adhesion, messy walls

adjusted the speeds per calibration instructions part 2 (saved as 'normal' slicer config)

reset to default firmware / config
reprinted calibration box... X axis is reversed. endstops dont work. Considerably different from stock! Restored previous firmware.

Changed layer height to .30, and to .40... no noticeable difference.

I think for learning I will need to start at the beginning for slicer, firmware, etc.

JHEAD hotend? What nozzle size?

"So as a refresher you need to set the correct steps per mm of used filament in the firmware, you can work this out by just extruding some plastic, I recommend using Printrun (Pronterface) Get it here

To do this you will need to edit, re-compile and upload firmware to your electronics, I'm going to assume you already know how to do that using the Arduino software. - (If not let me know)."

==2/24==
*Looks like the homing is pretty much OK. the board has been remounted on the side. I had asked for a freeze, its not frozen.. but whatver. Seems OK. Trying .5mm thin wall calibration. Using slicing gcode from previous run as a baseline.

*First few layers look good. get messy after the first 6 or so. Also some blurbs... check retraction?

*Reset the z axis to be just barely touching, a little closer. Reprinted... some jitter in the y axis on the first (slow) layer. very flat on the first layer

*verified settings in Marlin firmware. Pulled from the SD card, compared to original, uploaded to github

*verified X, about 100.2mm (should be 100) pretty close!
*verified Y, about 100.1mm ... pretty close!
* Z axis problem - board interferes with the Z axis, at about 82mm

*checked slic3r config, decreased layer height to .2 mm, recalibrated

*check on hysteresis per Andy
*check on cooling setting, check jerk settings
* printed some in rapid succession, problems w/ z... after 3 prints, it drove z through the bed!
*adjusted the z current on the potentiometer on the board... its the one with 2 wires going into it (Z has same controller for 2 motors). I turned it all the way CCW, then up CW till moved, then another 1/8 turn per http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration#Motor_Calibration
*sounds like some vibration in the Y axis... should check pot current for that too
* printed a 20mm cube, 100% fill, Andy pointed out the fill rate was too high... the 20mm block was bowed out on the top. cut it back to .95 in the extrusion multiplier in slic3r. Better, still too much. Dialed back to .90, which is the max... otherwise, need to calibrate esteps or filament diameter. .90 looks pretty good, could probably be a little smaller... should definitely double check esteps / filament diameter

*3rd cube ALMOST perfect. May consider remeasure / recalibrate the fill rate (fill rate diameter in slic3r, or esteps in firmware)
* reprinted the .5mm wall, looks GREAT

*adjusted the Y potentiometer. Now works GREAT! No sound, no vibration
* might should check the retraction parameters
*printed big piece LOOKS AWESOME
* might want to lift the z when done with print so it doesnt interfere
* will need to verify mechanicals... looks like the Z is a little off square.

Shane's printer notes

2013-02-25T14:06:04Z

Riotnrrd:

==2/20==
whatever the default config stuff is on the printer

used default slicer config, Marlin configs from github

When Zing, notice that front left clip interferes with fan. WTF... fan? Clips interfere with complete bed... don't even get 180x180. Need a better means. Remove fan? Removed.

Reset the switches for X and Z homes to be 'correct'.
Confirmed 30mm extrusion is more or less 30 mm (accuracy suffers w/ inches tape measure, need metric)
Confirmed bed is more or less level

following instructions from here:
http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html

printed .5mm box, isnt great... poor 1st layer adhesion, messy walls

adjusted the speeds per calibration instructions part 2 (saved as 'normal' slicer config)

reset to default firmware / config
reprinted calibration box... X axis is reversed. endstops dont work. Considerably different from stock! Restored previous firmware.

Changed layer height to .30, and to .40... no noticeable difference.

I think for learning I will need to start at the beginning for slicer, firmware, etc.

JHEAD hotend? What nozzle size?

"So as a refresher you need to set the correct steps per mm of used filament in the firmware, you can work this out by just extruding some plastic, I recommend using Printrun (Pronterface) Get it here

To do this you will need to edit, re-compile and upload firmware to your electronics, I'm going to assume you already know how to do that using the Arduino software. - (If not let me know)."

==2/24/2013==
*Looks like the homing is pretty much OK. the board has been remounted on the side. I had asked for a freeze, its not frozen.. but whatver. Seems OK. Trying .5mm thin wall calibration. Using slicing gcode from previous run as a baseline.

*First few layers look good. get messy after the first 6 or so. Also some blurbs... check retraction?

*Reset the z axis to be just barely touching, a little closer. Reprinted... some jitter in the y axis on the first (slow) layer. very flat on the first layer

*verified settings in Marlin firmware. Pulled from the SD card, compared to original, uploaded to github

*verified X, about 100.2mm (should be 100) pretty close!
*verified Y, about 100.1mm ... pretty close!
* Z axis problem - board interferes with the Z axis, at about 82mm

*checked slic3r config, decreased layer height to .2 mm, recalibrated

*check on hysteresis per Andy
*check on cooling setting, check jerk settings
* printed some in rapid succession, problems w/ z... after 3 prints, it drove z through the bed!
*adjusted the z current on the potentiometer on the board... its the one with 2 wires going into it (Z has same controller for 2 motors). I turned it all the way CCW, then up CW till moved, then another 1/8 turn per http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration#Motor_Calibration
*sounds like some vibration in the Y axis... should check pot current for that too
* printed a 20mm cube, 100% fill, Andy pointed out the fill rate was too high... the 20mm block was bowed out on the top. cut it back to .95 in the extrusion multiplier in slic3r. Better, still too much. Dialed back to .90, which is the max... otherwise, need to calibrate esteps or filament diameter. .90 looks pretty good, could probably be a little smaller... should definitely double check esteps / filament diameter

*3rd cube ALMOST perfect. May consider remeasure / recalibrate the fill rate (fill rate diameter in slic3r, or esteps in firmware)
* reprinted the .5mm wall, looks GREAT

*adjusted the Y potentiometer. Now works GREAT! No sound, no vibration
* might should check the retraction parameters
*printed big piece LOOKS AWESOME
* might want to lift the z when done with print so it doesnt interfere
* will need to verify mechanicals... looks like the Z is a little off square.

Shane's printer notes

2013-02-24T22:48:56Z

Riotnrrd: /* 2/24/2013 */

Started 2/20 with whatever the default config stuff is on the printer

used default slicer config, Marlin configs from github

When Zing, notice that front left clip interferes with fan. WTF... fan? Clips interfere with complete bed... don't even get 180x180. Need a better means. Remove fan? Removed.

Reset the switches for X and Z homes to be 'correct'.
Confirmed 30mm extrusion is more or less 30 mm (accuracy suffers w/ inches tape measure, need metric)
Confirmed bed is more or less level

following instructions from here:
http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html

printed .5mm box, isnt great... poor 1st layer adhesion, messy walls

adjusted the speeds per calibration instructions part 2 (saved as 'normal' slicer config)

reset to default firmware / config
reprinted calibration box... X axis is reversed. endstops dont work. Considerably different from stock! Restored previous firmware.

Changed layer height to .30, and to .40... no noticeable difference.

I think for learning I will need to start at the beginning for slicer, firmware, etc.

JHEAD hotend? What nozzle size?

"So as a refresher you need to set the correct steps per mm of used filament in the firmware, you can work this out by just extruding some plastic, I recommend using Printrun (Pronterface) Get it here

To do this you will need to edit, re-compile and upload firmware to your electronics, I'm going to assume you already know how to do that using the Arduino software. - (If not let me know)."

==2/24/2013==
*Looks like the homing is pretty much OK. the board has been remounted on the side. I had asked for a freeze, its not frozen.. but whatver. Seems OK. Trying .5mm thin wall calibration. Using slicing gcode from previous run as a baseline.

*First few layers look good. get messy after the first 6 or so. Also some blurbs... check retraction?

*Reset the z axis to be just barely touching, a little closer. Reprinted... some jitter in the y axis on the first (slow) layer. very flat on the first layer

*verified settings in Marlin firmware. Pulled from the SD card, compared to original, uploaded to github

*verified X, about 100.2mm (should be 100) pretty close!
*verified Y, about 100.1mm ... pretty close!
* Z axis problem - board interferes with the Z axis, at about 82mm

*checked slic3r config, decreased layer height to .2 mm, recalibrated

*check on hysteresis per Andy
*check on cooling setting, check jerk settings
* printed some in rapid succession, problems w/ z... after 3 prints, it drove z through the bed!
*adjusted the z current on the potentiometer on the board... its the one with 2 wires going into it (Z has same controller for 2 motors). I turned it all the way CCW, then up CW till moved, then another 1/8 turn per http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration#Motor_Calibration
*sounds like some vibration in the Y axis... should check pot current for that too
* printed a 20mm cube, 100% fill, Andy pointed out the fill rate was too high... the 20mm block was bowed out on the top. cut it back to .95 in the extrusion multiplier in slic3r. Better, still too much. Dialed back to .90, which is the max... otherwise, need to calibrate esteps or filament diameter. .90 looks pretty good, could probably be a little smaller... should definitely double check esteps / filament diameter

*3rd cube ALMOST perfect. May consider remeasure / recalibrate the fill rate (fill rate diameter in slic3r, or esteps in firmware)
* reprinted the .5mm wall, looks GREAT

*adjusted the Y potentiometer. Now works GREAT! No sound, no vibration
* might should check the retraction parameters
*printed big piece LOOKS AWESOME
* might want to lift the z when done with print so it doesnt interfere
* will need to verify mechanicals... looks like the Z is a little off square.

Shane's printer notes

2013-02-24T22:48:12Z

Riotnrrd: /* 2/24/2013 */

Shane's printer notes

2013-02-24T21:11:45Z

Riotnrrd: /* 2/24/2013 */

Shane's printer notes

2013-02-24T18:43:07Z

Riotnrrd: /* 2/24/2013 */

Shane's printer notes

2013-02-24T18:24:56Z

Riotnrrd: /* 2/24/2013 */

Started 2/20 with whatever the default config stuff is on the printer

used default slicer config, Marlin configs from github

When Zing, notice that front left clip interferes with fan. WTF... fan? Clips interfere with complete bed... don't even get 180x180. Need a better means. Remove fan? Removed.

Reset the switches for X and Z homes to be 'correct'.
Confirmed 30mm extrusion is more or less 30 mm (accuracy suffers w/ inches tape measure, need metric)
Confirmed bed is more or less level

following instructions from here:
http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html

printed .5mm box, isnt great... poor 1st layer adhesion, messy walls

adjusted the speeds per calibration instructions part 2 (saved as 'normal' slicer config)

reset to default firmware / config
reprinted calibration box... X axis is reversed. endstops dont work. Considerably different from stock! Restored previous firmware.

Changed layer height to .30, and to .40... no noticeable difference.

I think for learning I will need to start at the beginning for slicer, firmware, etc.

JHEAD hotend? What nozzle size?

"So as a refresher you need to set the correct steps per mm of used filament in the firmware, you can work this out by just extruding some plastic, I recommend using Printrun (Pronterface) Get it here

To do this you will need to edit, re-compile and upload firmware to your electronics, I'm going to assume you already know how to do that using the Arduino software. - (If not let me know)."

==2/24/2013==
*Looks like the homing is pretty much OK. the board has been remounted on the side. I had asked for a freeze, its not frozen.. but whatver. Seems OK. Trying .5mm thin wall calibration. Using slicing gcode from previous run as a baseline.

*First few layers look good. get messy after the first 6 or so. Also some blurbs... check retraction?

*Reset the z axis to be just barely touching, a little closer. Reprinted... some jitter in the y axis on the first (slow) layer. very flat on the first layer

*verified settings in Marlin firmware. Pulled from the SD card, compared to original, uploaded to github

*verified X, about 100.2mm (should be 100) pretty close!
*verified Y, about 100.1mm ... pretty close!
* Z axis problem - board interferes with the Z axis, at about 82mm

*checked slic3r config, decreased layer height to .2 mm, recalibrated

*check on hysteresis per Andy
*check on cooling setting, check jerk settings
* printed some in rapid succession, problems w/ z... after 3 prints, it drove z through the bed!
*adjusted the z current on the potentiometer on the board... its the one with 2 wires going into it (Z has same controller for 2 motors). I turned it all the way CCW, then up CW till moved, then another 1/8 turn per http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration#Motor_Calibration
*sounds like some vibration in the Y axis... should check pot current for that too
* printed a 20mm cube, 100% fill, Andy pointed out the fill rate was too high... the 20mm block was bowed out on the top. cut it back to .95 in the extrusion multiplier in slic3r. Better, still too much. Dialed back to .90, which is the max... otherwise, need to calibrate esteps or filament diameter.

*3rd cube ALMOST perfect. May consider remeasure / recalibrate the fill rate (fill rate diameter in slic3r, or esteps in firmware)

Shane's printer notes

2013-02-24T18:01:12Z

Riotnrrd: /* 2/24/2013 */