Shane's printer notes: Difference between revisions
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Reset the switches for X and Z homes to be 'correct'. | Reset the switches for X and Z homes to be 'correct'. | ||
Confirmed 30mm extrusion is more or less 30 mm (accuracy suffers w/ inches tape measure, need metric) | Confirmed 30mm extrusion is more or less 30 mm (accuracy suffers w/ inches tape measure, need metric) | ||
Confirmed bed is more or less level | |||
following instructions from here: | following instructions from here: | ||
http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html | http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html | ||
printed .5mm box, isnt great... poor 1st layer adhesion, messy walls | |||
JHEAD hotend? | JHEAD hotend? | ||
Revision as of 16:17, 20 February 2013
Started 2/20 with whatever the default config stuff is on the printer
used default slicer config, Marlin configs from github
When Zing, notice that front left clip interferes with fan. WTF... fan? Clips interfere with complete bed... don't even get 180x180. Need a better means. Remove fan? Removed.
Reset the switches for X and Z homes to be 'correct'. Confirmed 30mm extrusion is more or less 30 mm (accuracy suffers w/ inches tape measure, need metric) Confirmed bed is more or less level
following instructions from here: http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html
printed .5mm box, isnt great... poor 1st layer adhesion, messy walls
JHEAD hotend?
"So as a refresher you need to set the correct steps per mm of used filament in the firmware, you can work this out by just extruding some plastic, I recommend using Printrun (Pronterface) Get it here
To do this you will need to edit, re-compile and upload firmware to your electronics, I'm going to assume you already know how to do that using the Arduino software. - (If not let me know)."