Shane's printer notes: Difference between revisions
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===2/20=== | |||
whatever the default config stuff is on the printer | |||
used default slicer config, Marlin configs from github | used default slicer config, Marlin configs from github | ||
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printed .5mm box, isnt great... poor 1st layer adhesion, messy walls | printed .5mm box, isnt great... poor 1st layer adhesion, messy walls | ||
adjusted the speeds per calibration instructions part 2 (saved as 'normal' slicer config) | |||
JHEAD hotend? | reset to default firmware / config | ||
reprinted calibration box... X axis is reversed. endstops dont work. Considerably different from stock! Restored previous firmware. | |||
Changed layer height to .30, and to .40... no noticeable difference. | |||
I think for learning I will need to start at the beginning for slicer, firmware, etc. | |||
JHEAD hotend? What nozzle size? | |||
"So as a refresher you need to set the correct steps per mm of used filament in the firmware, you can work this out by just extruding some plastic, I recommend using Printrun (Pronterface) Get it here | "So as a refresher you need to set the correct steps per mm of used filament in the firmware, you can work this out by just extruding some plastic, I recommend using Printrun (Pronterface) Get it here | ||
To do this you will need to edit, re-compile and upload firmware to your electronics, I'm going to assume you already know how to do that using the Arduino software. - (If not let me know)." | To do this you will need to edit, re-compile and upload firmware to your electronics, I'm going to assume you already know how to do that using the Arduino software. - (If not let me know)." | ||
===2/24=== | |||
*Looks like the homing is pretty much OK. the board has been remounted on the side. I had asked for a freeze, its not frozen.. but whatver. Seems OK. Trying .5mm thin wall calibration. Using slicing gcode from previous run as a baseline. | |||
*First few layers look good. get messy after the first 6 or so. Also some blurbs... check retraction? | |||
*Reset the z axis to be just barely touching, a little closer. Reprinted... some jitter in the y axis on the first (slow) layer. very flat on the first layer | |||
*verified settings in Marlin firmware. Pulled from the SD card, compared to original, uploaded to github | |||
*verified X, about 100.2mm (should be 100) pretty close! | |||
*verified Y, about 100.1mm ... pretty close! | |||
* Z axis problem - board interferes with the Z axis, at about 82mm | |||
*checked slic3r config, decreased layer height to .2 mm, recalibrated | |||
* printed some in rapid succession, problems w/ z... after 3 prints, it drove z through the bed! | |||
*adjusted the z current on the potentiometer on the board... its the one with 2 wires going into it (Z has same controller for 2 motors). I turned it all the way CCW, then up CW till moved, then another 1/8 turn per http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration#Motor_Calibration | |||
*sounds like some vibration in the Y axis... should check pot current for that too | |||
* printed a 20mm cube, 100% fill, Andy pointed out the fill rate was too high... the 20mm block was bowed out on the top. cut it back to .95 in the extrusion multiplier in slic3r. Better, still too much. Dialed back to .90, which is the max... otherwise, need to calibrate esteps or filament diameter. .90 looks pretty good, could probably be a little smaller... should definitely double check esteps / filament diameter | |||
*3rd cube ALMOST perfect. May consider remeasure / recalibrate the fill rate (fill rate diameter in slic3r, or esteps in firmware) | |||
* reprinted the .5mm wall, looks GREAT | |||
*adjusted the Y potentiometer. Now works GREAT! No sound, no vibration | |||
* might should check the retraction parameters | |||
*printed big piece LOOKS AWESOME | |||
* might want to lift the z when done with print so it doesnt interfere | |||
* will need to verify mechanicals... looks like the Z is a little off square. | |||
'''todo:''' | |||
*check on hysteresis per Andy | |||
*check on cooling setting, check jerk settings | |||
*check retraction | |||
*double check esteps / filament diameter | |||
*consider lift Z after print before moving. | |||
*verify mechanicals (level, square, etc) | |||
===2/25=== | |||
*Recompiled current Configuration.h w/ Marlin, uploaded to double check settings. Changed slicer layer size to .3. printed .5mm thin wall... goofed up. | |||
* some vibration when printing... seems to be coming from extruder. Calibrated extrusion pot. Still looks like crap... turned on Cooling in slic3r. Yep.. cooling did it. | |||
===2/27=== | |||
* releveled bed... back was too high! | |||
* calibrated minimum temp... appears will go down at LEAST to 200. | |||
==Tips== | |||
http://hackaday.com/2013/02/26/giving-3d-printed-parts-a-shiny-smooth-finish/ | |||
===2/28=== | |||
* changed filament to 1.73, modifier to 1 | |||
* changed temperature to 225 | |||
* calibrated w/ 20mm solid cube... overfull! TOo much fill | |||
===3/9=== | |||
*changed back to original slicing settings, with .36 layer height, 1.73 diameter, .9 extrusion multiplier. Space Marine Cpt (fixed), crap. changed filament to 1.76, extrusion .8. |
Latest revision as of 17:22, 9 March 2013
2/20
whatever the default config stuff is on the printer
used default slicer config, Marlin configs from github
When Zing, notice that front left clip interferes with fan. WTF... fan? Clips interfere with complete bed... don't even get 180x180. Need a better means. Remove fan? Removed.
Reset the switches for X and Z homes to be 'correct'. Confirmed 30mm extrusion is more or less 30 mm (accuracy suffers w/ inches tape measure, need metric) Confirmed bed is more or less level
following instructions from here: http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html
printed .5mm box, isnt great... poor 1st layer adhesion, messy walls
adjusted the speeds per calibration instructions part 2 (saved as 'normal' slicer config)
reset to default firmware / config reprinted calibration box... X axis is reversed. endstops dont work. Considerably different from stock! Restored previous firmware.
Changed layer height to .30, and to .40... no noticeable difference.
I think for learning I will need to start at the beginning for slicer, firmware, etc.
JHEAD hotend? What nozzle size?
"So as a refresher you need to set the correct steps per mm of used filament in the firmware, you can work this out by just extruding some plastic, I recommend using Printrun (Pronterface) Get it here
To do this you will need to edit, re-compile and upload firmware to your electronics, I'm going to assume you already know how to do that using the Arduino software. - (If not let me know)."
2/24
- Looks like the homing is pretty much OK. the board has been remounted on the side. I had asked for a freeze, its not frozen.. but whatver. Seems OK. Trying .5mm thin wall calibration. Using slicing gcode from previous run as a baseline.
- First few layers look good. get messy after the first 6 or so. Also some blurbs... check retraction?
- Reset the z axis to be just barely touching, a little closer. Reprinted... some jitter in the y axis on the first (slow) layer. very flat on the first layer
- verified settings in Marlin firmware. Pulled from the SD card, compared to original, uploaded to github
- verified X, about 100.2mm (should be 100) pretty close!
- verified Y, about 100.1mm ... pretty close!
- Z axis problem - board interferes with the Z axis, at about 82mm
- checked slic3r config, decreased layer height to .2 mm, recalibrated
- printed some in rapid succession, problems w/ z... after 3 prints, it drove z through the bed!
- adjusted the z current on the potentiometer on the board... its the one with 2 wires going into it (Z has same controller for 2 motors). I turned it all the way CCW, then up CW till moved, then another 1/8 turn per http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration#Motor_Calibration
- sounds like some vibration in the Y axis... should check pot current for that too
- printed a 20mm cube, 100% fill, Andy pointed out the fill rate was too high... the 20mm block was bowed out on the top. cut it back to .95 in the extrusion multiplier in slic3r. Better, still too much. Dialed back to .90, which is the max... otherwise, need to calibrate esteps or filament diameter. .90 looks pretty good, could probably be a little smaller... should definitely double check esteps / filament diameter
- 3rd cube ALMOST perfect. May consider remeasure / recalibrate the fill rate (fill rate diameter in slic3r, or esteps in firmware)
- reprinted the .5mm wall, looks GREAT
- adjusted the Y potentiometer. Now works GREAT! No sound, no vibration
- might should check the retraction parameters
- printed big piece LOOKS AWESOME
- might want to lift the z when done with print so it doesnt interfere
- will need to verify mechanicals... looks like the Z is a little off square.
todo:
- check on hysteresis per Andy
- check on cooling setting, check jerk settings
- check retraction
- double check esteps / filament diameter
- consider lift Z after print before moving.
- verify mechanicals (level, square, etc)
2/25
- Recompiled current Configuration.h w/ Marlin, uploaded to double check settings. Changed slicer layer size to .3. printed .5mm thin wall... goofed up.
- some vibration when printing... seems to be coming from extruder. Calibrated extrusion pot. Still looks like crap... turned on Cooling in slic3r. Yep.. cooling did it.
2/27
- releveled bed... back was too high!
- calibrated minimum temp... appears will go down at LEAST to 200.
Tips
http://hackaday.com/2013/02/26/giving-3d-printed-parts-a-shiny-smooth-finish/
2/28
- changed filament to 1.73, modifier to 1
- changed temperature to 225
- calibrated w/ 20mm solid cube... overfull! TOo much fill
3/9
- changed back to original slicing settings, with .36 layer height, 1.73 diameter, .9 extrusion multiplier. Space Marine Cpt (fixed), crap. changed filament to 1.76, extrusion .8.