Shane's printer notes: Difference between revisions
No edit summary |
No edit summary |
||
| Line 29: | Line 29: | ||
To do this you will need to edit, re-compile and upload firmware to your electronics, I'm going to assume you already know how to do that using the Arduino software. - (If not let me know)." | To do this you will need to edit, re-compile and upload firmware to your electronics, I'm going to assume you already know how to do that using the Arduino software. - (If not let me know)." | ||
==2/24/2013== | |||
*Looks like the homing is pretty much OK. the board has been remounted on the side. I had asked for a freeze, its not frozen.. but whatver. Seems OK. Trying .5mm thin wall calibration. Using slicing gcode from previous run as a baseline. | |||
*First few layers look good. get messy after the first 6 or so. Also some blurbs... check retraction? | |||
*Reset the z axis to be just barely touching, a little closer. Reprinted... some jitter in the y axis on the first (slow) layer. very flat on the first layer | |||
*verified settings in Marlin firmware. Pulled from the SD card, compared to original, uploaded to github | |||
*verified X, about 100.2mm (should be 100) pretty close! | |||
Revision as of 15:18, 24 February 2013
Started 2/20 with whatever the default config stuff is on the printer
used default slicer config, Marlin configs from github
When Zing, notice that front left clip interferes with fan. WTF... fan? Clips interfere with complete bed... don't even get 180x180. Need a better means. Remove fan? Removed.
Reset the switches for X and Z homes to be 'correct'. Confirmed 30mm extrusion is more or less 30 mm (accuracy suffers w/ inches tape measure, need metric) Confirmed bed is more or less level
following instructions from here: http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html
printed .5mm box, isnt great... poor 1st layer adhesion, messy walls
adjusted the speeds per calibration instructions part 2 (saved as 'normal' slicer config)
reset to default firmware / config reprinted calibration box... X axis is reversed. endstops dont work. Considerably different from stock! Restored previous firmware.
Changed layer height to .30, and to .40... no noticeable difference.
I think for learning I will need to start at the beginning for slicer, firmware, etc.
JHEAD hotend? What nozzle size?
"So as a refresher you need to set the correct steps per mm of used filament in the firmware, you can work this out by just extruding some plastic, I recommend using Printrun (Pronterface) Get it here
To do this you will need to edit, re-compile and upload firmware to your electronics, I'm going to assume you already know how to do that using the Arduino software. - (If not let me know)."
2/24/2013
- Looks like the homing is pretty much OK. the board has been remounted on the side. I had asked for a freeze, its not frozen.. but whatver. Seems OK. Trying .5mm thin wall calibration. Using slicing gcode from previous run as a baseline.
- First few layers look good. get messy after the first 6 or so. Also some blurbs... check retraction?
- Reset the z axis to be just barely touching, a little closer. Reprinted... some jitter in the y axis on the first (slow) layer. very flat on the first layer
- verified settings in Marlin firmware. Pulled from the SD card, compared to original, uploaded to github
- verified X, about 100.2mm (should be 100) pretty close!