Laser Cutter: Difference between revisions

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==Theory / General Info==
===Laser===
* Good notes on controlling the intensity of the laser with PWM - [http://diylaser.midwestlaserarts.com/2011/09/laser-power-settings-via-pwm-can-fool.html Laser Power Settings Via PWM Can Fool You]


===Optics===
We have a [http://www.buildlog.net/blog/2011/02/buildlog-net-2-x-laser/ Buildog.net 2.x Laser] on site at Knox Makers. It is capable of cutting, engraving, and marking a number of different materials quickly and accurately when driven from CAD software such as Inkscape.


===Linear Motion===
== Buildlog 2.x Laser  ==
'''''See Also: [[Laser Hardware]]'''''


===Electronics===
The Buildlog.net 2.x Laser is an open source laser cutter/engraver. The usable work envelope is approximately 260mm x 500mm x 100mm.  The machine uses a 40W CO<sub>2</sub> infrared laser to engrave/cut.  Detailed information on it's operation is provided below, but the general theory of operation is as follows.  Inside the laser cutter there is a very powerful CO<sub>2</sub> infrared laser that is bounced off of a few mirrors and is finally directed towards the material being cut or etched by a moving mirror and lens that focuses the coherent beam. These mirrors and lenses are gold coated to provide the best possible transmission of infrared energy.  
* Potential arduino shield to use with LasaurGrbl - [https://github.com/stefanix/LasaurShield LasaurShield]


===Software===
There are two main variables that the laser uses to cut and etch: speed and power. When cutting, the laser power is increased and the speed is decreased so that the cutting beam spends a longer time hitting the material in order to cut though. While etching the speed is increased and/or the power reduced, this way the laser only removes a little material from the surface, leaving just the etching.
* Potential controller software based on Grbl- [https://github.com/stefanix/LasaurGrbl LasaurGrbl]
* Software to run on Mac/PC to send G-code to LasaurGrbl - [https://github.com/stefanix/LasaurApp LasaurApp]


==Build Notes==
== Usage  ==
You must take the [[Laser Operation Class]] in order to have permission to use the laser cutter. The laser cutter is a very powerful, but also easy to break machine that requires some training to be able to use effectively and safely. Once you have taken the class, you will be added to the Knox Makers Laser Cutter Checkout List.


* The laser cutter being built is based around the laser cutter on [http://www.buildlog.net/wiki/doku.php?id=2x:2.x_laser Buildlog.net]
At this time, we do not plan to schedule the usage of the laser cutter. If usage is heavier than anticipated, we reserve the right to institute a scheduling system to be fair to other users.
* Another good reference is [http://labs.nortd.com/lasersaur/manual/ Lasersaur]


==To Do List==
If you see any troubles with the laser cutter, please submit a [https://knoxmakers.org/oops/ trouble ticket].


* <strike>Buy/build shaft couplers for y-axis</strike> --[[User:Andronicus|Andronicus]] 22:46, 24 October 2012 (EDT)
== Materials  ==
* Buy honeycomb surface
There are a wide range of materials that the Laser Cutter can cut, etch or mark - but some simply don't work (eg metals) and some are extremely hazardous to either humans or the machine itself. It is therefore imperative that you check the list of [[Laser Cutter Materials]] before attempting to cut materials that you have not worked with before.
* <strike>Buy large z-axis gear and timing belt</strike> --[[User:Andronicus|Andronicus]] 18:31, 20 October 2012 (EDT)
* Buy cable carriers
* <strike>Buy Pololu motor drivers</strike> --[[User:Andronicus|Andronicus]] 00:50, 20 October 2012 (EDT)
* <strike>Buy</strike> <strike>Get Pololu heat sinks from Brian</strike> --[[User:Andronicus|Andronicus]] 15:53, 10 November 2012 (EST)
* Specify limit switches
* Buy limit switches
* <strike>Cut 1/4" aluminum rod stock to 12" & 14" sections for y-axis shafts</strike> --[[User:Andronicus|Andronicus]] 18:31, 20 October 2012 (EDT)
* Machine air assist nozzle
* Build roll around table -- In progress (Mike)
* Assemble x & y-axis pulleys
* Figure out permanent z-axis electronics
* Buy outlets and terminal blocks
* Buy a flow indicator
* Post laser power supply information
* Laser test setup???
** Paint
** Build doors
** Mount fire extinguisher
** Mount push bar
* Determine electronics setup
** <strike>Parallel Port Option: [http://store.makerslide.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=81 Interface board from buildlog.net]</strike>--[[User:Andronicus|Andronicus]] 22:46, 24 October 2012 (EDT)
** Procure electronics components for interface board
** Parallel port cabling
** Bring in computer
** Bring in old RAM
** USB Option: [https://github.com/stefanix/LasaurShield Lasersaur Arduino Shield] -- ON HOLD


==Buildlog.net Interface Board==
 
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center;"
== Laser Cutter Settings ==
|Designator||Qty||Description||Part Number||Supplier||Supplier P/N
There has been some preliminary testing with common materials to generate a set of recommended values for speed and laser power: [[Laser Cutter Settings]].  These values have been included as defaults into our laser cutter Inkscape plug-in.  The values should be acceptable for the listed materials, and can serve as a starting point for testing for other materials.  The laser settings are internally limited to prevent damaging the laser, so feel free to experiment.
|-
 
|C1,C2,C12-C16||7||0.1uF 50V 20% Ceramic Cap||Kemet C410C104M5U5TA7200||Mouser||80-C410C104M5U-TR
Beyond changing speed and laser power, do not attempt to change the configuration of the laser cutter.  These settings are calibrated regularly by our [https://knoxmakers.org/member/jondale/ Laser Cutting Czar] and are not intended for users to change.  Doing this messes up other people's work and it's NOT COOL.  As with everything in the space, when you're done, leave things better than they were when you started. Changing settings could mean the laser is not right when the next person comes to use the machine.
|-
 
|C3-C5||3||220uF 25V Electrolytic Cap||Panasonic ECE-A1AKA221||Mouser||667-ECE-A1AKA221
 
|-
== Theory: How it Works  ==
|C6-C11||6||100pF 100V 5% Ceramic Cap||AVX SA102A101JAR||Mouser||581-SA102A101JAR
Inside the laser cutter there is a very powerful CO<sub>2</sub> infrared laser that is bounced off of a few mirrors onto a moving head and is finally directed towards the material being cut or etched by a moving mirror and lens that focuses the coherent beam. These mirrors and lenses are gold coated to provide the best possible transmission of infrared energy.
|-
 
|CR1-CR3||3||Diode, 1N4148||Generic||Mouser||583-1N4148-B
The infrared (IR) light that the laser cutter produces would blind you instantly if you were to look directly at it - and it's so bright that even you were only looking at the light reflected off the material that's being cut, it could still blind you. The IR light is also totally invisible. Fortunately, IR light doesn't pass easily through the window of the cutter that is made of a Polycarbonate plastic (which strongly absorbs light in those wavelengths). For this reason, if the lid (and the front panel) of the laser are not properly shut, then the IR laser will turn off automatically. The intense white light that you sometimes see when the cutter is operating is actually visible light that's being emitted by the material that the laser is burning off (it's literally 'white hot'!).
|-
 
|J1||1||Connector, D 25 Pin Male 90 Deg||FCI 10090097-P254VLF||Mouser||649-10090097-P254VLF
For carbon-based (organic) materials (like wood, paper, cloth and leather), you see the material being burned away and there may be black residue left behind. For plastics like Acrylic, the material is chemically decomposed by the laser and you don't see that white hot trail as it cuts. However, when the laser hits the metal grid beneath the material, there will still be bright flashes of light from that.
|-
 
|J2||1||Connector, D 9 Female|| ||
== Making drawings for the Laser Cutter  ==
|-
'''''See Also: [[Using Inkscape with the Laser Cutter]]'''''
|J3||1||Connector, D 9 Male|| ||
 
|-
The recommended software path is to design your drawing in Inkscape, use the KMLaser bundle to export your drawing into gcode, then import the gcode to LinuxCNC which drives our laser cutter.
|J4||1||Connector, RJ45 Shielded||Stewart SS-6488S-A-NF||
 
|-
However, these are only conventions.  The only requirements is that your design ends in gcode that is understood by our configuration of LinuxCNC.  [[Laser Cutter Settings]] is a good reference with explanations of the values you will need to set in your gcode.
|J5||1||Connector, DC Power|| ||
 
|-
== Raster Engraving ==
|JP1,JP2,JP3||3||Connector, Male Header 3pos||Generic||
 
|-
See separate Wiki article: [[Raster Engraving]]
|K1||1||Relay||Panasonic TQ2H-5V||
 
|-
== External Links ==
|Q1||1||Transistor||Motorola MPS2222A||
 
|-
Some helpful laser related links.
|Q2,C3||2||MOSFET||Vishay IRL520||
 
|-
====DIY Laser Cutters/Engravers====
|R1-R4,R10,R12,R14,R17,R18,R21,R22,R24,R26||13||Resistor, 10K, 1/4W||Generic||
* [http://www.buildlog.net/blog/2011/02/buildlog-net-2-x-laser/ Buildog DIY Laser] <--- Knox Makers' Current Laser Cutter
|-
*[http://www.lasersaur.com/ Lasersaur DIY laser cutter]
|R5,R6,R7,R8||4||Resistor, 100R, 1/4W||Generic||
 
|-
====CAM Software for Knox Makers Laser Cutter====
|R9,R11,R13||3||Resistor, 1K, 1/4W||Generic||
* LinuxCNC - [http://www.linuxcnc.org LinuxCNC]
|-
* LinuxCNC Config Setup - [http://www.linuxcnc.org/docs/html/config/stepconf.html Stepper Config]
|R15,R16,R19,R20,R23,R25||6||Resistor 10 Ohm, 1/4W, Metal Film||Generic||
* LinuxCNC INI Config - [http://linuxcnc.org/docs/html/config/ini_config.html INI Config]
|-
* [https://github.com/bjj/2x_laser Currently Used Config]
|RP1||1||Resistor Array 10K x 9|| ||
 
|-
====Laser Cutter/Engraver Safety Info====
|S1,S2,S3||3||Hex Rotary Switch||Copal S1011||
*[http://jerryarutherford.blogspot.com/2010/12/new-years-laser-fire.html Why you should not leave the laser unattended]
|-
 
|TB1,TB2,TB3,TB5||3||Terminal block 5mm x 4, Pluggable|| ||
====General Laser Cutting/Engraving Info====
|-
*[http://www.ulsinc.com/cp/en/scordato-sales/materials-library USL Materials Library]
|TB4||1||Terminal block 5mm x 4|| ||
 
|-
====Cutting/Engraving Material Suppliers====
|TB4||1||Terminal block,5mm x 3, Pluggable|| ||
*[https://www.facebook.com/pages/Jeffries-Wood-Works/446121655478402?sk=info&ref=page_internal Jeffries Wood Works]
|-
*[https://www.inventables.com/categories/materials/acrylic Inventables]
|TB8||1||Terminal block 5mm x 3|| ||
*[http://regal-plastics.com/ Regal Plastics]
|-
*[http://www.piedmontplastics.com Piedmont Plastics]
|U1||1||Power Supply 5V DC/DC||Murata OKI-78SR-5/1.5-W36-C||
 
|-
====Things to do with the Laser Cutter/Engraver====
|U2||1||Power Supply 3.3V DC/DC||Microchip MCP1700-3302E/TO||
*[http://www.adafruit.com/blog/2013/05/27/fabfont-a-typeface-for-lasercut-stencils/ Typeface for stencils]
|-
*[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arjRtCjI9AQ Laser Origami]
|U3,U4,U5||3||Stepper Driver||Pololu A4983 or A4988||
*[http://www.instructables.com/id/Pure-Decadence---Laser-Etched-Chocolate-Bar/ Laser etched Chocolate]
|-
*[http://www.instructables.com/id/Round-stoolstype-all-rounds/ Laser cut round stools]
|U6||1||Schmitt Trigger Non-Inverting||NXP 74HC7014||
*[http://www.re-innovation.co.uk/web12/index.php/en/information/random/designing-laser-cut-enclosures Designing Laser-Cut Enclosures]
|-
 
|B1||1||50mm Blower, 5V||Sunon KDE0505PFV1.11.MS.A.GN||
====Software Tools====
|-
*[http://www.makercase.com/ Nice Tabbed box maker]
|Terminal Block Plug ||3||4C For stepper motors|| ||
*[http://boxmaker.rahulbotics.com/ Another Tabbed box maker]
|-
*[http://tuckbox.ferociousweb.com// Tuck box generator]
|Terminal Block Plug||1||3C For water connection|| ||
*[https://github.com/timur-tabi/svg-tuckbox Tuck box python script]
|-
 
|Power Connector||1||For 24VDC power input CUI|| ||
====Misc====
|-
*[http://www.thorlabs.us/newgrouppage9.cfm?objectgroup_id=330 Tissues for cleaning optics]
|Jumper||3||0.1”  Jumper Cap||Generic||
*[http://blog.ponoko.com/2010/06/17/how-to-make-snug-joints-in-acrylic/ How to make snug joints in acrylic]
|-
 
|Standoffs||4||For blower||McMaster||
==Thanks==
|-
A very special thanks to ATX Hackerspace, whose hard work was the source and inspiration for a lot of the material included in our local wiki.
|Screws||4||PHMS #4-40 x 2.5|| ||
|-
|Nuts||4||#4-40 Nylon Locking||Generic||
|-
|}

Latest revision as of 14:50, 18 April 2017

We have a Buildog.net 2.x Laser on site at Knox Makers. It is capable of cutting, engraving, and marking a number of different materials quickly and accurately when driven from CAD software such as Inkscape.

Buildlog 2.x Laser

See Also: Laser Hardware

The Buildlog.net 2.x Laser is an open source laser cutter/engraver. The usable work envelope is approximately 260mm x 500mm x 100mm. The machine uses a 40W CO2 infrared laser to engrave/cut. Detailed information on it's operation is provided below, but the general theory of operation is as follows. Inside the laser cutter there is a very powerful CO2 infrared laser that is bounced off of a few mirrors and is finally directed towards the material being cut or etched by a moving mirror and lens that focuses the coherent beam. These mirrors and lenses are gold coated to provide the best possible transmission of infrared energy.

There are two main variables that the laser uses to cut and etch: speed and power. When cutting, the laser power is increased and the speed is decreased so that the cutting beam spends a longer time hitting the material in order to cut though. While etching the speed is increased and/or the power reduced, this way the laser only removes a little material from the surface, leaving just the etching.

Usage

You must take the Laser Operation Class in order to have permission to use the laser cutter. The laser cutter is a very powerful, but also easy to break machine that requires some training to be able to use effectively and safely. Once you have taken the class, you will be added to the Knox Makers Laser Cutter Checkout List.

At this time, we do not plan to schedule the usage of the laser cutter. If usage is heavier than anticipated, we reserve the right to institute a scheduling system to be fair to other users.

If you see any troubles with the laser cutter, please submit a trouble ticket.

Materials

There are a wide range of materials that the Laser Cutter can cut, etch or mark - but some simply don't work (eg metals) and some are extremely hazardous to either humans or the machine itself. It is therefore imperative that you check the list of Laser Cutter Materials before attempting to cut materials that you have not worked with before.


Laser Cutter Settings

There has been some preliminary testing with common materials to generate a set of recommended values for speed and laser power: Laser Cutter Settings. These values have been included as defaults into our laser cutter Inkscape plug-in. The values should be acceptable for the listed materials, and can serve as a starting point for testing for other materials. The laser settings are internally limited to prevent damaging the laser, so feel free to experiment.

Beyond changing speed and laser power, do not attempt to change the configuration of the laser cutter. These settings are calibrated regularly by our Laser Cutting Czar and are not intended for users to change. Doing this messes up other people's work and it's NOT COOL. As with everything in the space, when you're done, leave things better than they were when you started. Changing settings could mean the laser is not right when the next person comes to use the machine.


Theory: How it Works

Inside the laser cutter there is a very powerful CO2 infrared laser that is bounced off of a few mirrors onto a moving head and is finally directed towards the material being cut or etched by a moving mirror and lens that focuses the coherent beam. These mirrors and lenses are gold coated to provide the best possible transmission of infrared energy.

The infrared (IR) light that the laser cutter produces would blind you instantly if you were to look directly at it - and it's so bright that even you were only looking at the light reflected off the material that's being cut, it could still blind you. The IR light is also totally invisible. Fortunately, IR light doesn't pass easily through the window of the cutter that is made of a Polycarbonate plastic (which strongly absorbs light in those wavelengths). For this reason, if the lid (and the front panel) of the laser are not properly shut, then the IR laser will turn off automatically. The intense white light that you sometimes see when the cutter is operating is actually visible light that's being emitted by the material that the laser is burning off (it's literally 'white hot'!).

For carbon-based (organic) materials (like wood, paper, cloth and leather), you see the material being burned away and there may be black residue left behind. For plastics like Acrylic, the material is chemically decomposed by the laser and you don't see that white hot trail as it cuts. However, when the laser hits the metal grid beneath the material, there will still be bright flashes of light from that.

Making drawings for the Laser Cutter

See Also: Using Inkscape with the Laser Cutter

The recommended software path is to design your drawing in Inkscape, use the KMLaser bundle to export your drawing into gcode, then import the gcode to LinuxCNC which drives our laser cutter.

However, these are only conventions. The only requirements is that your design ends in gcode that is understood by our configuration of LinuxCNC. Laser Cutter Settings is a good reference with explanations of the values you will need to set in your gcode.

Raster Engraving

See separate Wiki article: Raster Engraving

External Links

Some helpful laser related links.

DIY Laser Cutters/Engravers

CAM Software for Knox Makers Laser Cutter

Laser Cutter/Engraver Safety Info

General Laser Cutting/Engraving Info

Cutting/Engraving Material Suppliers

Things to do with the Laser Cutter/Engraver

Software Tools

Misc

Thanks

A very special thanks to ATX Hackerspace, whose hard work was the source and inspiration for a lot of the material included in our local wiki.